[Buckhunter7191]

Hello everyone I’m new to archery talk and am only 18 years old, last year I bought a Mathews mission blaze as in upgrade from my previously bow and could not get it tuned to save my life my uncle was a professional archer and couldn’t get it tuned either. So I took it back and they found a tiny crack under one of the washer on the tip side of the limb replaced the limbs and sent me off. it tuned pretty good after that I walk back tuned it to 60 yards. But my arrow is no where near center shot in fact I don’t think it is even possible to get my rest at center shot because one of my canes will hit the riser. I left this be not seeing it as a huge problem since it shot okay but when I tried to shoot at distances beyond 70 yards I found that I can’t because my top vane would hit my scope housing. So this brought me back to the tuning problem. So my first question is can I just adjust my peep to fix this problem or is there something else I’m missing? Second problem is I struggle to hold steady I’m not super wably but I feel that I should be more stready and I think it’s a shoulder alignment problem how can I check to make sure my shoulders are correctly aligned? And my last question would be when I’m just squeezeing of a shot my bow sometimes will jut off the target and make me shoot a few incessant left I shoot a back tension so I’m not sure how I can be anticipating the shot. If anyone could answer any of these questions it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading.
I shoot a Mathews mission blaze 70#draw weight
Gold tip hunter 340 arrow 100 grain tips with blazer vanes
rip chord drop away rest
Axel accu click adjustable sight
Axel 9 inch sight bar extension
1/16 inch peep with #2 clarifier
4x power lens

 

[N.O.N]

One thing I’ve learned is that don’t chase your tail trying to tune the bow until you’re certain that it’s not you. Not saying it is you but double check yourself everyday. Make sure that you fix you first and when you’re confident you’re good to go then tune. For a long time it was hard for me to shoot at longer distances because my peep height wasn’t correct. Make sure your anchor point is correct and you’re not dipping your head to bring your nose to the string. It’s a list of things that may not allow you to shoot that far. You’re going to be asked to post pics of you from head to toe so people can look at your form. The shooting to the left probably comes from pushing the bow on release. Like I said don’t chase Your tail trying to tune the bow. You said you’re new to archery so make take the time to really work on your form and being consistent every arrow you shoot!


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[hunter11]

I really can't speak to the wobbly hold....could be a form issue or not comfortable to the bow or hinge yet. Yes, you can anticipate the shot with any release if not used properly. If your uncle is close by I would illicit him for help. Get your arrow running straight down the shelf to start with, usually around 3/4, 13/16 as measured from the riser to the middle of the arrow. If you've walk back tuned it already, try shooting thru paper to verify clean flight......if you have a small tear you can adjust rest slightly (1/16 max) to clean it up. Larger tears will require twists to a yoke leg or shimming......I'm not familiar with the cam system on that bow. Search a thread called Straight forward tuning (on here).....great wealth of info on tuning. You might not be able to shoot past 70 yards without hitting the bottom of your sight housing but you might also have your peep sight too low. Close your eyes.....come to anchor position.....then open eyes.....are you looking thru the peep? It might need to be moved up a little.....that will make you shoot higher thus moving sights and housing up. A reputable pro shop should be able to help with all of these things and adjustments. Reading threads like the one I suggested and others will help you understand the how and why of things. Welcome to AT and good luck with everything!!!!!!

 

[wabbit]

welcome to the forum...couple questions if i might inquire...
while you stated you are 18 and you are shooting #70, what is your physical stature, six five and skinny as a rail with no appreciable muscle, five eleven and you look like one of the tackle on a nfl pro team, just a basic overview...

please measure your middle finger > middle finger without leaning back and arm parallel to the floor, divide by, oh ya 2.5. your new bow & bow draw & arrows match?

what weight was your previous bow?

you shoot stupendously or just ok with your olde bow? oh ya, what model was your olde bow?

had anybody knowledgeable, e.g. instructor or coach, look at your form objectively, not where you hit ~ don’t care actually, only your form from each side and behind you or video you from, eh say from ten feet, of the very beginning of the shot, again all three sides.

review your form with some of those on this site who profess to have good form...

not sure what you are telling me stating in your last question...”squeezing off the shot” or “back tension”, etc?

a favor if i might request...paragraphs are your friend instead of the wall of text which some might have difficulty following.

 

[nuts&bolts]

centershot for the arrow rest is way off. PHoto of the bow, and lots of stuff on the floor, just confuses the image. Here is a cleaned up photo.

 

[hunter11]

centershot for the arrow rest is way off. PHoto of the bow, and lots of stuff on the floor, just confuses the image. Here is a cleaned up photo.

I respectfully submit that the center shot is NOT off by very much, if at all. I've had dozens of Mathews bows that looked just like this (looking over the top) at 13/16 with the idler wheel already pre leaned to the left the correct amount. It's actually only a little left of the limb bolts but the stabilizer makes it look like more than it is. I would bet it's at 13/16 which is a starting point but having tuned a lot of these bows.....they bare shafted and walk back tuned at this setting better than they did set up closer to the riser a lot of times.

 

[nuts&bolts]

I respectfully submit that the center shot is NOT off by very much, if at all. I've had dozens of Mathews bows that looked just like this (looking over the top) at 13/16 with the idler wheel already pre leaned to the left the correct amount. It's actually only a little left of the limb bolts but the stabilizer makes it look like more than it is. I would bet it's at 13/16 which is a starting point but having tuned a lot of these bows.....they bare shafted and walk back tuned at this setting better than they did set up closer to the riser a lot of times.

Thank you for phrasing it that way. So, allow me to suggest something else for you to consider. ANY centershot position, can be made to work. If that alignment is a 13/16ths alignment, what I call arrow pointing CROOKED left, in relation to the direction the sight extension arm is pointing, sure, you can shim the top cam to make that crooked left alignment give you a paper tuning bullet hole. Shims, top hats, whatever the factory wants to call the system to move the top cam sideways left or sideways right. So, if I remember correctly, Padgett likes to call his system POWERSTROKE tuning. So, if I remember correctly, Shane calls his system AIMSTRING tuning. My preference is to call it powerstroke tuning....or the push direction of the bowstring. The push direction of the bowstring is adjustable. With a yoke leg system, you can yoke tune to make the arrow rest sideways position of your choice, to work. If you have a binary no yoke cable system, you can shim the cam (top cam or both cams) with custom width shims to make nearly any sideways position of your choice, to work. So, if 13/16ths for the centershot position, has the arrow pointing CROOKED left, in relation to the centerline pointing direction of the target sight...MY preference is to shove the arrow rest more to the right, until the arrow is pointing dead parallel to the target sight. So, if a parallel centershot position gives you a LEFT paper tear, I would install different Top Hats to shove the top cam more to the left, to make the new centershot position give you a bullet hole. I believe Padgett says to set the arrow rest centershot to the POWERSTROKE position (the direction the riser is pointing), and then, shim or top hat or yoke tune, to make that arrow rest position work. My preference as well. But, if crooked left for the arrow pointing direction works for you, sure, that can work. Just looks bad to me.

 

[bukfever2]

Hello everyone I’m new to archery talk and am only 18 years old, last year I bought a Mathews mission blaze as in upgrade from my previously bow and could not get it tuned to save my life my uncle was a professional archer and couldn’t get it tuned either. So I took it back and they found a tiny crack under one of the washer on the tip side of the limb replaced the limbs and sent me off. it tuned pretty good after that I walk back tuned it to 60 yards. But my arrow is no where near center shot in fact I don’t think it is even possible to get my rest at center shot because one of my canes will hit the riser. I left this be not seeing it as a huge problem since it shot okay but when I tried to shoot at distances beyond 70 yards I found that I can’t because my top vane would hit my scope housing. So this brought me back to the tuning problem. So my first question is can I just adjust my peep to fix this problem or is there something else I’m missing? Second problem is I struggle to hold steady I’m not super wably but I feel that I should be more stready and I think it’s a shoulder alignment problem how can I check to make sure my shoulders are correctly aligned? And my last question would be when I’m just squeezeing of a shot my bow sometimes will jut off the target and make me shoot a few incessant left I shoot a back tension so I’m not sure how I can be anticipating the shot. If anyone could answer any of these questions it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for reading.

I'm going to suggest that if you've walked back tuned to 60 and results are good and your only real complaint is that your sight is to low to get 70 yards and beyond then my advice would be to just raise your peep.
A small amount goes a long way so try maybe an 1/8 - 1/4" and see if you're happy with the results. Do it the right way so you don't cut your string.
As far as "steady" hold, just accept the fact that you won't be all that steady especially at those longer distances and just put more focus on the target and less on that little dot on your scope and go through with your shot.
It's when you focus on the dot that you really see all the movement and try to hold steadier and then "make" the release go off. Likely that's where your issues are coming from.
For now worry a little less about the equipment and focus more on yourself.
Form & execution is everything, A poorly "tuned" bow will still out shoot poor form.
Your arrow being off center as it is can be a lot of things but if you're doing good out to 60, for now I wouldn't worry about it
JMO

 

[Buckhunter7191]

welcome to the forum...couple questions if i might inquire...
while you stated you are 18 and you are shooting #70, what is your physical stature, six five and skinny as a rail with no appreciable muscle, five eleven and you look like one of the tackle on a nfl pro team, just a basic overview...

please measure your middle finger > middle finger without leaning back and arm parallel to the floor, divide by, oh ya 2.5. your new bow & bow draw & arrows match?

what weight was your previous bow?

you shoot stupendously or just ok with your olde bow? oh ya, what model was your olde bow?

had anybody knowledgeable, e.g. instructor or coach, look at your form objectively, not where you hit ~ don’t care actually, only your form from each side and behind you or video you from, eh say from ten feet, of the very beginning of the shot, again all three sides.

review your form with some of those on this site who profess to have good form...

not sure what you are telling me stating in your last question...”squeezing off the shot” or “back tension”, etc?

a favor if i might request...paragraphs are your friend instead of the wall of text which some might have difficulty following.





I am 5,11 and athleticly built. My old bow was a bear legion I believe I shot okay with that bow but it was a very basic bow. My uncle hads helped me with my form as much as he can but I only see him a few times a year. It is negative 6 here for a high today so I’ll get a video in when it warms up a bit ��. Thank you for your advise!

 

[hunter11]

Thank you for phrasing it that way. So, allow me to suggest something else for you to consider. ANY centershot position, can be made to work. If that alignment is a 13/16ths alignment, what I call arrow pointing CROOKED left, in relation to the direction the sight extension arm is pointing, sure, you can shim the top cam to make that crooked left alignment give you a paper tuning bullet hole. Shims, top hats, whatever the factory wants to call the system to move the top cam sideways left or sideways right. So, if I remember correctly, Padgett likes to call his system POWERSTROKE tuning. So, if I remember correctly, Shane calls his system AIMSTRING tuning. My preference is to call it powerstroke tuning....or the push direction of the bowstring. The push direction of the bowstring is adjustable. With a yoke leg system, you can yoke tune to make the arrow rest sideways position of your choice, to work. If you have a binary no yoke cable system, you can shim the cam (top cam or both cams) with custom width shims to make nearly any sideways position of your choice, to work. So, if 13/16ths for the centershot position, has the arrow pointing CROOKED left, in relation to the centerline pointing direction of the target sight...MY preference is to shove the arrow rest more to the right, until the arrow is pointing dead parallel to the target sight. So, if a parallel centershot position gives you a LEFT paper tear, I would install different Top Hats to shove the top cam more to the left, to make the new centershot position give you a bullet hole. I believe Padgett says to set the arrow rest centershot to the POWERSTROKE position (the direction the riser is pointing), and then, shim or top hat or yoke tune, to make that arrow rest position work. My preference as well. But, if crooked left for the arrow pointing direction works for you, sure, that can work. Just looks bad to me.

I totally agree with you. Any centershot position can be made work (within reason) and I hate the pointing left look also. But a lot of older Mathews bows wanted to tune like that even with the appropriate yoke adjustment. You might get a good paper tear but it wanted to POI to the right at distance.......maybe the reason the manual always suggested 13/16 instead of 3/4. All I know is I set up parallel to the riser now and shim or yoke adjust around THAT to get a good tear.....just like you're saying.

 

[nuts&bolts]

I totally agree with you. Any centershot position can be made work (within reason) and I hate the pointing left look also. But a lot of older Mathews bows wanted to tune like that even with the appropriate yoke adjustment. You might get a good paper tear but it wanted to POI to the right at distance.......maybe the reason the manual always suggested 13/16 instead of 3/4. All I know is I set up parallel to the riser now and shim or yoke adjust around THAT to get a good tear.....just like you're saying.

Just a side note. I have a Mathews Apex 7. 32-inch front stab would swing over 2-inches to the right, at full draw. Rigid cable guard. Shot fine, but bugged me, to see the stab swing that much sideways. So, I did my first frank-en-stein bow. Took out the Apex 7 cam/idler wheel, put in Hoyt Spiral cams, and did a shoot thru buss cable. Tunes right down the middle. hehehehehe.

 

[hunter11]

Just a side note. I have a Mathews Apex 7. 32-inch front stab would swing over 2-inches to the right, at full draw. Rigid cable guard. Shot fine, but bugged me, to see the stab swing that much sideways. So, I did my first frank-en-stein bow. Took out the Apex 7 cam/idler wheel, put in Hoyt Spiral cams, and did a shoot thru buss cable. Tunes right down the middle. hehehehehe.

That was a good idea!!!! I can relate to the torque....my Drenalin LD was like that too.