For my fixed broadheads you cannot beat the KME sharpening system. I believe the stay sharp systems is a knock off of it if you're looking for a cheaper option. I love sharpening my blades, therapy in some ways.

 

Okay nice, does it work for expandable’s also?

 

I have the KME Sharpening system but I have only sharpened my knives with it. It really puts a nice sharp to the apex cut. It would work great for broadheads if you can get the angle to the apex of the cutting edge correct.

 

If you can remove the blades and clamp them in the KME vice,I see no reason why you couldn't sharpen them.However, I really can't say for sure and it looks like there wouldn't be enough room to clamp and then run your stone at the angle you would need. I think I would get a good sharpening stone first to try.They make small diamind stones for such tasks.

 

A place to buy sharpening equipment and stones.
Sharpening Supplies, trust the leader in sharpening.

 

And for the KME Sharpener.
KME Precision Knife and Broadhead Sharpeners (kmesharp.com)
Been a long time since I bought mine and it even says you can sharpen broadheads.

 

My KME is in the lower right

 

My KME is in the lower right
View attachment 7907197

That's a nice Whiskey Bone Case Muskrat. I have the same one.

 

My wife uses a Killzone mechanical and since they do not make that model of replacement blades any more, if the blade is not bent I use my KME to sharpen them….works great. When she runs out I will switch brands then. Even though I have plenty of replacement blades for my Slick Trick Magnum fixed blade broadheads, I also sharpen them with my KME if they are not too bent or dented.

 

I sharpen all my broadheads, both fixed blade and mechanical heads. The easiest to sharpen are the one piece three blade heads. I just use a diamond stone or a flat file with the head mounted on a broadhead holder. Equal work per each side of the blade, so it doesn’t develop a wobble. Two blade heads are easy to sharpen as well, same process. Some heads like certain tools better. For Swhacker mechanicals just remove the blade. The only tools I have is a diamond stone, a flat file and a RADA wheelie sharpener. If they aren’t bent and they spin true any broadhead can be rehabilitated to be used again. I have Zwickey, Muzzy, Montec and Swhacker heads that have killed multiple times.

 

I hate sharpening and don't find any joy in it, but it's necessary to ensure the best chance of taking game. The Kme jig is the best there is. It sharpens all two blades and mechanical blades.
One thing it really teaches you is the quality of the steel you're working on. Mechanicals use junk steel. Diamond stones almost wash away the metal of mechanical blades. I can take a butter knife dull mechanical blade and get it scary sharp in under 10 minutes.
When you use a quality tough steel like my Bishop S7 heads, the head feels like it's gliding over the diamond surface. The diamonds are still certainly working, but it takes way longer and is more time consuming

 

I hate sharpening and don't find any joy in it, but it's necessary to ensure the best chance of taking game. The Kme jig is the best there is. It sharpens all two blades and mechanical blades.
One thing it really teaches you is the quality of the steel you're working on. Mechanicals use junk steel. Diamond stones almost wash away the metal of mechanical blades. I can take a butter knife dull mechanical blade and get it scary sharp in under 10 minutes.
When you use a quality tough steel like my Bishop S7 heads, the head feels like it's gliding over the diamond surface. The diamonds are still certainly working, but it takes way longer and is more time consuming

when you say kme jig, are you referring to the smaller broadhead jig that you drag by hand or the full knife platform where you lock the broadhead into the grip?

 

I am in the camp sharpening can be a game changer. Not only worth your while, should be viewed as a necessity.

If you are not accustomed to sharpening start on something that doesn't matter. Sharpening a knife or two from a thrift shop for starters. Sharpening old carbon steel knife's has been an eye opener for me. Steel quality / variety makes a huge difference in the ability of a knife or broad-head's ability to take a edge & maintain an edge.
many ways to get the job done. Though if you are not finishing with a striping process you are cheating yourself IMHO

 

Stropping is worth your time.

 

I have some Muzzy 3 blade, pre feradyne ownership, from the mid 1990/s that are still good to go, spin true and are razor sharp.

 

If your using a StaySparp or KME, You need to find the distance the blade sticks out of the jig to get factory angle. Once that is found, make a template of how far it sticks out so you can replicate it every time. The distance the blade sticks out determines the angle. If you don't do this, you will end up with a different angle each time and require more sharpening.
Ches.

 

I shoot one piece three blades, which are extremely easy to sharpen. I also shoot iron will single bevels which I sharpen with a jig. The expandables that I use are one and done.

 

Oh okay so when you guys are referring to the kme, you’re talking just about the jig. Then you still need the plate?

 

Most BHs are not sharp enough to hunt with out of the new package. I can’t imagine not sharpening my own BHs.

 

Very much agree. I have used a number of different methods for sharpening broadheads over the years. This is what I am currently using. It isn't the fastest method but it does get them sharp.

The little black device is the Stay Sharp tool to hold the replaceable blades.

 

And too, stainless steel can sometimes be a challenge to really get sharp because there are different grades of stainless and all are pretty soft. You have to first understand sharpening. To get a sharp edge at the apex you have to remove the burrs you create and with stainless, it's easy to just roll the edge to the other side. Not so with Carbon steel. You can easily remove the burrs to create a very sharp edge without rolling the edge. With any sharpening method, your angle must remain consistent. After you achieve your sharpness, often time just a simple stropping will restore that edge without removing anymore steel.

 

I just use a worksharp Belt sander sharpener for expandables. Hold blade with needle nose.

 

I've had pretty good luck with this as well. Just use the finest belt and it gets em pretty sharp.

 

As I am walking to my stand i shoot into the rocks to get that sharp serrated edge..

I use a angled diamond stone to sharpen my HellRazors, I carry it in my back so if bored on stand I can touch them up

 

Yes, I sharpen mine when I first buy them if they feel dull or have a burr. I also sharpen them before I reuse them after killing an animal with one unless it's bent. If it's bent, I toss it in the trash.

 

Frustrated with the sharpeners on the market I created BladeSled to solve the issues of plastic flex, low clamp force, durability, angle adjustment and smooth rolling. It worked so well, I decided to sell it and share. BladeSled.com $23.99
YouTube demos here

 

Frustrated with the sharpeners on the market I created BladeSled to solve the issues of plastic flex, low clamp force, durability, angle adjustment and smooth rolling. It worked so well, I decided to sell it and share. BladeSled.com $23.99
YouTube demos here

are you a vendor on here?

 

Sharp broadheads are a must. They kill faster and if shot placement is good they usually don’t even know they’re hit and don’t run far. They stand for a minute or less and fall over not knowing what just happened. 15-20 yds

 

I love it when that happens.

 

I replace the blades on mechanicals. I'll touch up the points on fixed blade ferrules and occasionally the blades if they're not dinged up too bad, but those broadheads are usually kept in reserve for groundhogs or finishing off a spined deer.

 

Everything gets sharpened before I used it, fixed and mechanical. I use the staysharp guide on mechanical's and replaceable blade fixed heads. My one piece 3 blades get sharpened on a flat stone. I have been doing this religiously the last few years and my blood trails have shortened significantly.

 

So glad to see your post. I keep saying sharper gets shorter blood trails. I did not plan on that, it just is the result of hand sharpening to razor sharp. I get 15 to 60 yd recoveries 95% of time. If I make a bad shot I’ve seen 60 to 100 yd recoveries when I was worried I lost the deer. The only deer I’ve lost in years was one at 7 yards that I had been at full draw on for a long time and I missed high, no pass through and it ran 100yds and off property where I could not follow.

There are several sharpeners out there. The BladeSled was created specifically for my pile of used Swhacker blades that other sharpeners did not work well on. Once I solved my own problem I decided to share it. Go to BladeSled.com for more info