I do it all the time, it doesn't appear to impact my accuracy. If you have the right setup and good form it shouldn't be a problem.

 

I have all three bows set up exactly the same. Peep height, d loop length, and a tied in knot, used as a kisser. Makes the switch real easy.

 

Im thinking more about bows set up differently like, a target set up say 50-60 pounds single pin sight with lenses and a back tension or thumb release.

To a 70-80 pound multipin sight with no lenses and wrist trigger release?

Robb

 

You're a human, as such it's fairly easy to adapt. It will be a little harder to shoot the hunting set up the first few shots but only because of muscle memory and being used to the lighter draw. I constantly switch between my 2 bows.

 

I rotate shooting 3 different setups...
I think it makes me pay a little more attention to form, anchor, etc...
When I start hunting, I'll stick to my main hunting bow and put the target bow away...

 

I will use anywhere from 2 to 4 different bows during a hunting season. Like the one guy said above, if your shot execution is good, it's not a problem. I do try to keep all of my bows speeds within a couple fps of each other. My brain has been calibrated for 280-290fps for at least the last 15 years. It's expensive because all my bows shoot different weight arrows. I keep the poundage between 65 and 70. I am not finicky about draw weight, I am finicky about holding weight. Some of my bows are 75% and others are 80%. I like my bows to feel the same at full draw.

 

I like my bows to feel the same and shoot the same. I have trouble shooting bows that feel differently. Shooting a faster and slower bow is a problem for me hunting. Going from my older slower bow to a newer faster bow has resulted an two deer getting a back scratch but being otherwise unharmed.

 

Right now i have two bows that are ready to shoot (and one in various pieces.) Switching between them might require a brief warm-up, but i can shoot both equally well. They're set up basically the same (single pin, anchor sight, same anchor point, same thumb release). Just different poundage.

If you spend the time to make sure both bows are set up to fit you, and you've practiced with both enough to be proficient, it should be easy to switch back and forth.

 

So long as each bow is fit the same, it isn't going to make any difference in how you shoot....doesn't matter about release, sight etc.

 

I switch between two bows all the time to keep proficient with both.

My 3D bow is a 2015 Bear Arena 34, 60 #, with a CBE Vertex 3D rapid travel single-pin sight, a Verde Plus 4x lens in the scope, a QAD HDX rest, and a dual Bee Stinger setup, 10" on the front and 8" on the back.

My hunting bow is a 2014 Bear Agenda, 70#, with a Trijicon Accupin single-pin sight, a QAD HDX rest, and also a dual Bee Stinger setup, 10" on the front and 8" on the back.

So I guess I shoot what the OP wondered about, and to me it is no different if you practice with both. I use a TRU Ball HBX with the Arena and a Stan's SX3 four-finger release with the Agenda hunting bow.

I feel more secure drawing the 70# with a four-finger release than I do with the HBX, although it is a great release. When hunting, I do not want to have to even think about my draw, and I would with the HBX.

 

my spot bow is a PSE Supra, and my Hunting bow is a BowTech 101st airbourne, (which by the way, still has it's original limbs). I have no problems switching back and forth. the main reason is because my shot execution is developed well enough that getting both bows adjusted to fit and work with my shot execution, is clearly distinguishable. the better your shot execution is developed, the easier it is to adjust the bow, to work with it.

 

Nothing a couple practice shots cant help out. I try to setup hunting/target kinda in the same way. The ata is different but same dl and so on. I try to setup a scaled down stab setup. Sights dont usually bother me but i am using single pin for both. Im shooting a hinge this year for everything though. Both of my bows are hoyt so same grip as well minus wrapped grip on target bow

 

It's funny you should post this today as I might have noticed for the first time a little difference in my form shooting my BowTech Experience. I shoot all four of my bows a fair amount, but over the last couple of weeks I've mainly been shooting my Perfexion and CPXL. They are 36 and 35" ATA, respectively, while my Experience is 33". Today I picked up the Experience and noticed that I really felt like I was straining to get my nose to the string at full draw. I've got a thread going right now asking about this. I got to wondering if maybe my "muscle memory" for the longer bows didn't get "set" to where the shorter ATA bow felt funny.

Interestingly, while it "felt funny", I didn't notice a big difference in accuracy out to 40 yards. I could still humm 'em in there with that Experience.

 

I notice when switching from pce xl to faktor 34: i shoot the 34 better past 40 yards. I believe the 34 string angle feels more like my xl

 

No issues here. Some one already noted we are human and the most adaptable animal on the planet...

 

The only problem I ever ran into is switching from shooting my trad recurve back to Olympic recurve (with clicker). If I shoot my trad bow exclusively for a week or two then try to go back to target recurve, it always seems to be a struggle to get my release sorted out.

 

All my bows are setup different. Target, hunting, barebow, etc.

No issues swapping.

Takes the boredom out of shooting the same bow (or configuration) over and over again.

 

I do the same, I shoot every day. Swap bows and styles and forms. Swap targets and distances.

Seems to keep TP away,too...?

I even shoot left handed every now and then, got a light "dual riser" bow for that.

The same with firearms,I shoot IPSC, silhouette,BR,Trap... variety is the salt for me.

 

I swap between two and don't have any problems. 60# bow set up to shoot with a hinge and 70# hunting rig I shoot with a trigger release. Shooting the 60# with the hinge helps my shooting with the hunting bow.

 

There are subtle neurologic adjustments with equipment changes. It usually takes weeks to months of adjustment to get completely "settled in" to something different.

It happens with pretty much any physical activity. I notice it in lifting weights (different routines), riding different bicycles, archery, even handwriting using different pens or pencils. Your nervous system has to adjust to firing muscles in any particular activity. Change the activity and there is a readjustment.

Whether or not that adjustment causes significant change in performance is another matter. World-class competition, yes, very important. Hunting-level archery? I doubt the difference would even be noticeable unless you were carefully looking for it.

 

For me a lot has to do with the type of cam your shooting between the two (or more bows). I don't like going back and forth between a softer cam and then a harder cam bow. Right now my hunting bow has less valley than my target bows (just the way this bow is designed with the cam configuration). So if I shoot my softer cam on my spot bow or the slightly more forgiving valley on my 3d set up, I feel like I'm holding accordion back (and forth) when I'm shooting my hunting bow. Granted, I don't pull super hard during my shot execution, but I do more of what I consider a weight transfer. So during hunting season I don't pick up another bow other than the bow I plan to kill a deer with. I use a thumb button for both target and hunting, though I sometimes use a hinge, and I can do so for both (but I like being able to hang the button on the string while I'm in the stand). Finally, I hate going from a single pin to a multi pin sight (even though that is exactly what I'm doing right now, but a single pin hunting sight is on my short list of things to get). The reason I hate it is because I shoot enough that most of my shot routine is engrained over the summer and I don't have to think about much of anything when it comes to my equipment. So, I have a ton of issues because I pull up with my pin sight and allllwwaaaays seem to put my first pin on the spot I'm aiming..... no matter the distance. It drives me crazy. I feel like I'm constantly yelling at myself to pay better attention. Anyways, just my 2 cents.

 

I shoot the same make of bow, but different models. I shoot an elite victory for target, a synergy for hunting, and a e35 for 3d. I have the target and 3d bow set up with the same sight, rest, peep height, and nock point, just different power lens's. The one difference is the grip. I try to get them as similar as possible, but as any victory shooter knows its pretty tough to get a grip exactly like that! Its hands down my favorite grip.. I use shrewd grips for the other bows that dont have an integrated grip. As far as being able to shoot them back to back, not a problem. Being in shape is key, muscle memory plays a big role for sure as previosly stated, and form is very important.
Now when i go to my hunting rig, the synergy, things change a little. I use a different sight, but still shoot a single pin with round scope, w/o a lens. The rest is a pro v so thats different too but still limb driven. and the draw cycle / holding weight is different as well. All in all the bows are very similar but different in there own ways, and i can honestly say that i can shoot each one very well. One thing i will say, is the hold of the bow. My target rig with a 27" front bar and 15" side bar holds very different compared to my 10" front bar and 8" side bar on my synergy thats for sure! But i can still hammer those x's
All 3 bows however, have the same peep height, the same nock point. I just like different letoff for different situations, hence the use / owning of more than just a couple of bows. I like to set my bows up and leave them that way.

 

I'm a horrible shot, but I find less of an issue switching between bows (A Specialist and a D350... Different DLs and DWs and different grip feels) than I do switching releases (even between my HBC and HBX, but especially if I pull out the LH Hex). Between the three my groups move right/left. I know it's a form issue but I execute each differently.

 

I find less of an issue switching between bows (Different DLs and DWs and different grip feels) than I do switching releases

I'll second that - I switch between several setups in an average week; lots of different axle-to-axle lengths, but the draw lengths are set differently in order to get me a nose-on-string anchor with all of them.

 

I own several bows. A couple for hunting and few for target. I have no problems swapping between them. I think a BIG part of that is because I set every one of them up for ME.

 

Never switched them on the same day but never had a problem changing my bows from day to day. Also using different releases.

 

I have three bows. The two compounds are close in set up, but have different arrow rests, draw weights, let off and technically, different draw lengths. Although both measure near enough to 29. One is a PSE the other an Elite. They have way different draw cycles and back walls. But I can swap between the two mid shoot and there's not much between them. Although, over longer shoots or comps, I find I fatigue less with the Elite. One is a budget bow, the other a mid to high end bow. That's probably the biggest difference.
I also shoot a recurve regularly. Takes a few shots going from compound to recurve, but not the other way.