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k -

Approx 27#, aka 1.5# per inch.

Viper1 out.
 
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I'll add a caveat to Vipers post - I have a shorter draw length, but my draw weight on the fingers for my Hoyt limbs, rated at 30# is 31#. Factors such as anchor position, bow geometry and riser, tiller bolt setting, can all influence the actual OTF draw weight. That does not negate what Viper said, just some factors that might change things a bit. Since you have the bow, try to get a measurement. BTW my luggage scale reads 33#, so try and use a dedicated quality bow scale. In the long run, are you comfortable shooting multiple arrows at that draw weight (whatever it may be), and are your arrows flying well? As always YMMV
 

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Yep, fingers make a difference on lighter bows. Nothing at all wrong with a 26" draw. I use to have an over 28" and for a while almost 29". Sure, I looked like I as about to fall over backwards, but I was almost to the point on that manly man's 29" arrow. I have a 26" draw. 1.5 pounds per inch at 30 pounds sounds right, I wonder how much variable there can be on certain bows myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
my main concern is arrow spine the ones I have are a 500 spine from the charts I have seen that stiff for a 30lb bow, would it be stiffer at a shorter draw length
 

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my main concern is arrow spine the ones I have are a 500 spine from the charts I have seen that stiff for a 30lb bow, would it be stiffer at a shorter draw length
I think your 500's are much too stiff. In carbons I'd bet that 30" 800's with 80gn points would get you in the ballpark. Or, you could pick up some full length 1716 aluminums with NIBB points.
 

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Without actually measuring the bow on a scale…

Your know your bow is measured at 28”, which means during the approximately 20” of draw from the brace height (usually around 8”) to 28”, the bow goes from zero to 30#. So, for every inch of draw, your bow gains 30/20 = 1.5#. Thus, at 26” draw, your bow should be, as Viper1 said, about 27#.

As for spine, it would depend on the arrow length you want (which may be your draw length, or may be longer). For your 27# bow, a 26” arrow, should probably be somewhere in the 1.400 area, and if you want a longer arrow, say 28”, something like 1.200. Your .500s are WAY, WAY too stiff.
 

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k -

A 30# @ 28" bow drawn to 28" calls for a 900 spine arrow (think 1716 @ .880). Drawing it to 26" calls for a 1000 spine arrow (think 1616 @ 1.079).

With aluminum stay with full length shafts for now.

ILF rigs give you some leeway, but don't over think it.

Viper1 out.
 

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For comparison only: My 68 inch bow, (25" riser and medium limbs) is 31# measured on the fingers and I'm shooting 1716 aluminum arrows, full length (29 inches) with NIBB points (64grains?). The 1716 spine at around 0.880 deflection. Bare shafts are grouping with fletched. So, this is just for comparison, but hopefully the information will help get you close to a properly tuned arrow once you determine the draw weight. BTW - 1816 aluminum about 0.760 spine always seemed to bare shaft stiff.
 

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I have a 30 lb take down recurve that draws 3o at 28" but my draw is 26" any I dea what my draw weight would be at 26" thanks
Its really simple to figure out . First have someone help you and pull the string back to your anchor point with a arrow as if you were going to shoot it . Have your helper mark where the arrow lines up with the end of the front of the bow . If you don't have a helper a plastic bread tie works great for arrows around the 9mm size . Place the bread tie at about 24 inches and as you pull the arrow back the bread tie will stop at the front of the riser and the arrow will slid through it and stop when you get to your anchor point . Once its marked slowly let the string go forward . Get a fishing weight scale that has a hook at the bottom and a handle at the top or a luggage hand held weight scale . They are both the same thing . Hang the handle from a good strong nail that is hooked upwards . Load the same arrow that you just marked . Hook the bottom of the scale next to your string nock and between the arrows nock. Have your friend watch the scale . Grab both sides of the riser and pull straight down until the marked end of the arrow or bread tab is lined up with the front of the riser . Hold it there and ask your helper what the scale reads . That is the most accurate way to get the bows poundage at your draw length .
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Its really simple to figure out . First have someone help you and pull the string back to your anchor point with a arrow as if you were going to shoot it . Have your helper mark where the arrow lines up with the end of the front of the bow . If you don't have a helper a plastic bread tie works great for arrows around the 9mm size . Place the bread tie at about 24 inches and as you pull the arrow back the bread tie will stop at the front of the riser and the arrow will slid through it and stop when you get to your anchor point . Once its marked slowly let the string go forward . Get a fishing weight scale that has a hook at the bottom and a handle at the top or a luggage hand held weight scale . They are both the same thing . Hang the handle from a good strong nail that is hooked upwards . Load the same arrow that you just marked . Hook the bottom of the scale next to your string nock and between the arrows nock. Have your friend watch the scale . Grab both sides of the riser and pull straight down until the marked end of the arrow or bread tab is lined up with the front of the riser . Hold it there and ask your helper what the scale reads . That is the most accurate way to get the bows poundage at your draw length .
I have had my wife mark an arrow I drew and her mark was the same as what I got with a marked arrow, 25.5 to 26" draw
 

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I have had my wife mark an arrow I drew and her mark was the same as what I got with a marked arrow, 25.5 to 26" draw
The draw weight will be different between 25.5 and 26 " Try to get the same draw length on every pull . Try to find a good anchor point that doesn't chance a 1/2 inch . Hold your bow the same way every time when you pull back the arrow . 1/2 difference is a lot and it will give you a different draw weight . Once you figure out what length you shoot then mark it and pull the string back with the arrow to the mark and look at the scale and you wil know your draw weight of that particular bow . No 2 bows are going to be the same . If you are wanting to know your draw weight for that bow for arrow choices a few pounds one way or another isn't going to matter that much , you just want to be in the same ballpark as the spine of the arrow . At my draw length my bow is 27 lbs and it shoots arrows from 600 to 800 spines . Its best if you just go by the bows 30 lb weight and start off with the spins that work in that range for the length arrow you need . I need a 31 " arrow for my long bow . I'm in the process of trying to find the lightest weight arrow in the 5.5 to 6.5 gpi that come in a 31 " length so I can have the flattest trajectory possible for 3D target matches . I'm looking between 600 and 800 spine arrows .
 

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The draw weight will be different between 25.5 and 26 " Try to get the same draw length on every pull . Try to find a good anchor point that doesn't chance a 1/2 inch . Hold your bow the same way every time when you pull back the arrow . 1/2 difference is a lot and it will give you a different draw weight . Once you figure out what length you shoot then mark it and pull the string back with the arrow to the mark and look at the scale and you wil know your draw weight of that particular bow . No 2 bows are going to be the same . If you are wanting to know your draw weight for that bow for arrow choices a few pounds one way or another isn't going to matter that much , you just want to be in the same ballpark as the spine of the arrow . At my draw length my bow is 27 lbs and it shoots arrows from 600 to 800 spines . Its best if you just go by the bows 30 lb weight and start off with the spins that work in that range for the length arrow you need . I need a 31 " arrow for my long bow . I'm in the process of trying to find the lightest weight arrow in the 5.5 to 6.5 gpi that come in a 31 " length so I can have the flattest trajectory possible for 3D target matches . I'm looking between 600 and 800 spine arrows .
I am shooting gold tip velocity 600 spine arrow. They are 5.75 grains per inch. They fly fast out of my 35lb bow.
 
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