[XCalibre]

hello. i set up my x10s onto my new Formula RX (27" riser w/ med limbs) and they seem to be a bit weak, which i believe is from the faster limbs (at the same poundage) and the new 120gr stainless points. i currently have my bow set up with a 9 1/4" brace height, slightly left center shot and the stiffest spring in my plunger at the stiffest setting and my bare shaft is still grouping in the right 7-8 ring at 18m and slightly tail left. my fletched arrows are grouping well in the 10 with no tail kick.

aside from dropping my poundage, i figure that my only option is to cut my arrows a bit, but i don't know by how much. i don't want to reduce my point weight, and i'll adjust my brace height for fine tuning.

is cutting my arrows the right course to take?

 

[whiz-Oz]

Yep.
It's going to be a cut and test job.
Nobody here will be able to tell you exactly.
Hope you've got an arrow saw handy to your target and a portable hotmelt heat source.
Obviously, don't cut too much off at once.

 

[nulimbender]

How about using brass nock indicator or a bowstring with more strands?

 

[whiz-Oz]

Depends if you want to buy a high performance bow and then not bother using it or not.
It's pointless to spend a lot of money and not adjust your arrows to suit.

 

[ArmyHooah]

Me personally, I would drop my point weight to 110 and see what that does before cutting the shafts.

I my experience, I have never had any real improvement in performance with heavier points outdoors. Indoors yes, but outdoors, the wind drift is going to be there no matter what point weight you use. It might change by an 1", not enough for me to stay heavy.

Other than that cut little by little and tune, time consuming and frustrating. But will work out in the long run.