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Having trouble with two different bows. One is a Switchback XT and the other is a Strother Infinity. I'm out of adjustment on my sights. The SBXT hits to the right of my point of aim and the Strother to the left of point of aim. I can't adjust the sights any further in the direction I need. The problem has just come up. They shot fine last season. I'm thinking it may be the strings and/or cable. Any ideas?
 

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Having trouble with two different bows. One is a Switchback XT and the other is a Strother Infinity. I'm out of adjustment on my sights. The SBXT hits to the right of my point of aim and the Strother to the left of point of aim. I can't adjust the sights any further in the direction I need. The problem has just come up. They shot fine last season. I'm thinking it may be the strings and/or cable. Any ideas?

Hello daniel745:

Goto the General Discussion section,
and at the top of the page,
download the FREE shooting and tuning guide.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1399457

Goto Chapter 6.2 - MODIFIED French Tuning.

This will help you get straightened out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you are adjusting them to the same direction of which they are going to get them back center arent you?

Yes
 

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you are adjusting them to the same direction of which they are going to get them back center arent you?

Yes
I would just follow the instructions for MODIFIED french tuning.

Arrow rest position (horizontal) affects the arrow flight.

Sight pin position (horizontal) has ZERO effect on the arrow flight.

Adjusting the arrow rest, correctly, will tighten up your groups (minimize left-right misses),
ASSUMING that the bow DL setting is in the ball park for your body parts...most shooters are usually setup too long.

So,
the general goal is to move the arrow rest horizontally, until the centerline of the arrow is directly in the flight path
of the bowstring center serving.

Although SOME coaches just say "...eyeball it...",
I created the MODIFIED french tuning method,
to make it really simple.


So,
let's start with the sight pin position.

Take a piece of paper,
and setup your target block so the center is at YOUR shoulder height.

This helps get the bow hand HIGH enough,
so that you have the arrow DEAD LEVEL,
while at full draw.

When the arrow is DEAD LEVEL at full draw,
this helps to keep form problems to a minimum.

Now,
folks a piece of paper in half, to get a nice, perfectly straight light.

Pin the piece of paper to the target block,
so that the folded edge is DEAD VERTICAL.

Now,
step back just 6 feet,
YUP,
just 72-inches,
and fire a field point arrow at the edge of the piece of paper.

We want a PERFECT hole,
that is 50% on the paper,
and
that is 50% off the paper.

Should look like this.




Now,
since you say you have run out of adjustment on your sight...

let's get back to a good starting point.

Adjust your arrow rest (horizontal adjustment, so that the
arrow is parallel to the riser
or another way to say this,
adjust the arrow rest horizontal adjustment,
so that the arrow is parallel to the front stabilizer...dead straight ahead.


Move the sight pins (horizontal adjustment)
so that the pins are directly above the centerline of the arrow...
if you hold the bow riser vertical,
the line of the pins is at 12-o'clock above the center of the arrow.

This is a GOOD starting point.


Now,
take a shot at the folded edge of the piece of paper.

IF you do NOT get a perfect 50/50 hole,
then,
MOVE the pins (gang windage adjustment).

If your arrow hole
is completely off the folded edge of paper,
say you missed 1/4-inch to the left....
MOVE the pins to the left.


IF your arrow hole is say 1/4-inch to the right of the folded edge...

MOVE the pins to the right.


IF you arrow hole is 75% off the paper to the left,
and only 25% on the paper...

you still missed left,
so move the pins to the left say 1/64th of an inch (SUPER TINY ADJUSTMENT).


BE PICKY.

Keep tweaking the sight pins until you get a perfect 50/50 hole.

 

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Now,
you have FINALLY got that perfect arrow hole,
with half of the arrow on the piece of folded paper (half on the edge of the paper)
and
half the arrow is off the paper (half off the edge of the paper).

Now,
step back to ANY CONVENIENT longer distance.

If you are doing this in your garage,
move back say 12 feet.

If you are doing this outside,
move back 10 yards. If you have more room,
move back 20 yards.

ANY LONGER distance than 6 feet will work.

Fire a group of arrows.

IF the CENTER of the group of arrows
has missed your FIRST arrow....say 12-inches LEFT,
we need to STEER the arrows to the right,
so....

MOVE the arrow rest say 1/16th inch to the right.


IF the CENTER of your group of arrows missed the first arrow (the arrow on the edge of the piece of paper)
say 6 inches to the right...
we need to steer the arrows to the left,
so
move the arrow rest say 1/16th inch to the LEFT.


When shooting the LONGER convenient distance,
keep tweaking the arrow rest horizontal position,
until you have a group of arrows CENTERED around the perfect 50/50 arrow.


NOT DONE YET.

Pull all your arrows,
and get back to 6 FEET.

Fire a single field point arrow
at that vertical edge of paper.

IF you don't get a perfect 50/50 arrow hole on the edge of the piece of paper,
make a SUPER tiny adjustment to the sight pins WINDAGE (horizontal gang adjustment to the pins).

60/40 is not good enough.
Make a super tiny adjustment to the sight pins,
until you get back to that perfect 50/50 hole.




Ok.

Now step back to any convenient longer range distance.
Might be only 14 feet.
Might be 9 yards.
Might be 22 yards.

Use whatever longer distance is available to you.

Setup a bullseye target face, if you can.
Fire at the bullseye at YOUR SHOULDER HEIGHT.

TWEAK the arrow rest position,
until your group of arrows is PERFECTLY CENTERED around the bullseye.

MOVE the arrow rest,
when shooting at the CONVENIENT longer range distance,
to get the CENTER of your arrow group,
CENTERED around the bullseye.


Back and forth.

Shoot at the vertical edge of paper,
and adjust the SIGHT PIN WINDAGE, when shooting at POINT BLANK range (say 6 feet).


Shoot at a bullseye,
at ANY convenient longer range distance,
and TWEAK the ARROW REST (horizontal position)
until your groups are centered around the bullseye.

Should take no more than 3 cycles
and you will be shooting straight
at ANY distance,
short, medium and long range.
 
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