[Benjamin59]

Hello all so I have a issue I have a pse Supra focus xl I have it all setup and right now thru the chrono it’s hitting 283fps. I go outside and have done 20-60 sight tapes, 30-70 sight tapes on archers advantage but cannot get anything to match up to my pencil marks. My 20-30 are right and my longer distance are not matching up. Would love some input

I did my sighting in on a 1” horizontal line for closer shots and 2” for 70 and 80 yards

 

[big44a4]

Hello all so I have a issue I have a pse Supra focus xl I have it all setup and right now thru the chrono it’s hitting 283fps. I go outside and have done 20-60 sight tapes, 30-70 sight tapes on archers advantage but cannot get anything to match up to my pencil marks. My 20-30 are right and my longer distance are not matching up. Would love some input

I did my sighting in on a 1” horizontal line for closer shots and 2” for 70 and 80 yards

How many tapes have you printed? Is all your info entered correct? Sight info included.

I would just use the chrono speed and then print a range to see. Start with one and go from there as you will know to print slower range or faster range for next set.

Some people say it doesn’t work but I’ve been using it for years now and always get a tape to work. Anytime it’s off it’s me choosing the wrong tape. I hate using pencil marks for that reason. Would rather match a tape to a current tape.

For example retuned my bow this week. Moved current tape to match at 30. Then 100 mark was actually 98. Verified a few others but printed a new tape matched the 30 to 30 mark and the new 100 mark to 98 on the old tape. Shot and verified new tape is accurate.


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[bigten]

You can always make your own. Lots of apps out there for that.

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[Benjamin59]

You can always make your own. Lots of apps out there for that.

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That’s what I did on archers advantage online but still no luck. I am waiting for a calm day but having trouble matching them up at all.

 

[Benjamin59]

How many tapes have you printed? Is all your info entered correct? Sight info included.

I would just use the chrono speed and then print a range to see. Start with one and go from there as you will know to print slower range or faster range for next set.

Some people say it doesn’t work but I’ve been using it for years now and always get a tape to work. Anytime it’s off it’s me choosing the wrong tape. I hate using pencil marks for that reason. Would rather match a tape to a current tape.

For example retuned my bow this week. Moved current tape to match at 30. Then 100 mark was actually 98. Verified a few others but printed a new tape matched the 30 to 30 mark and the new 100 mark to 98 on the old tape. Shot and verified new tape is accurate.


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Like the way u think not a bad idea pick on and set it up

 

[Shogun1]

Get more precise on your marks.

Assuming a target sight with milled in range settings on the side and milled in range settings on the range knob.

Zero the range knob with the milled marks. IE. Twist the range knob to a zero setting. Then adjust the marker on the side to be precisely on a number.

STOP using the quick adjustment.

Use a piece of yarn set level horizontally

Get a good setting to split the yarn at 15 yards.

Write the setting down.

Stop

Then the next day ... split the yarn at 15 yards again. ... So confirm your setting for 15 yards.

Next time out ... work your way back to 5 yards longer than your expected max range ... work your way back meaning back up 5 yards adjust sight down some and just keep the arrow on the bale. Repeat until you get all the way back there

Stop

Next time out start shooting at that horizontal yarn again from that longest range.

Keep working at it to split or touch the yarn.

Write the setting down.

Stop

Next day confirm your setting for that long range.

Stop.

Go to the bow shop ... get accurate measurements to feed a tape program like Archers Advantage. (Note: some programs may require more than just two marks.)

Build a sight tape using those two sight marks for 15 yards and your longest plus 5 yards.

Then the range settings on the tape will be pretty close for your setup.

Also note: Archers Advantage calculates a “short range equivalent.” When the tape is built this way the calculated speed will be slower than the chrono speed AND the short range equivalents will be off.

So... build another tape off the chrono speed ... to get the short range equivalents. (Not for the tape)

In my experience, this approach gives me a good tape and good short range equivalents.

Finally, I shoot in the marks in 10 yard increments between 20 and my longest range by shooting in at a horizontal piece of yarn. I then calculate the range marks in between those 10 yard marks.

Note: this isn’t a quick process. But it does yield accurate range marks and tapes.

 

[1tiger]

never use 20 yards its too easy to be a little off.i use 30 and 60 yards.

 

[Benjamin59]

Played with sight tapes this morning at 5:30 with no wind and my 70 was dead on and 60 was one line off 50 1.5 lines off 40 2 lines off 30 2 lines off and 20 dead on so I think I found a tape that may work the way I want

 

[nightvision]

Op,
I have to ask. Are you actually good enough to know your tape is off 2 yards at 100 yards or did I read something incorrectly? If so, kuddos. I shoot just good enough to get a tape based off of a 20/60 sight in or a 30/60 sight in but it good enough.

One piece of advice I do have is fletching. I had the same problem when using 4 feathers. The problem would read it’s head around the 60 yard mark. It was due to the parachuting effect. Fletcher up with 3 fletch and the problem went away. Just some food for thought.

 

[dajogejr]

I can tell you until I got all the required measurements spot on for AA, my tapes would be off.
Be sure the string and peep measurements are correct for your setup as well as your actual arrow weight and FPS.

Something else to think about... What yardage to you set your peep to?
I typically shoot up to 50 yards, not usually less than 20.
I set my peep height at a 35 yard shot to split the difference. I've had better luck with that as well.

 

[merlinron]

it could be that you change your anchor point as you shoot farther distances (most people do). that in turn, changes the spacing and/or alignment of your peep and pin, which changes the progressive spacing of your sight marks and the program you use, can't exponentially compensate for that, because it cannot know you changed your anchor point. somewhere along your sight marks, you will have a larger or smaller gap between marks that doesn't follow the rest of the spacing. that point is where you change your anchor for longer distances. your sight tape program can't add or subtract from the base spacing used to write the sight program because you changed your anchor.

 

[hoyt fo life555]

I prefer my pencil marks, its easier, and I am way more confident in it. Plus if I change taw or any thing it’s just so much easier, or I can even mark different arrows with different colored marks. If some one needs some factory tapes I probably have some hha and spot Hogg ones laying around I might be able find.

 

[hoyt fo life555]

it could be that you change your anchor point as you shoot farther distances (most people do). that in turn, changes the spacing and/or alignment of your peep and pin, which changes the progressive spacing of your sight marks and the program you use, can't exponentially compensate for that, because it cannot know you changed your anchor point. somewhere along your sight marks, you will have a larger or smaller gap between marks that doesn't follow the rest of the spacing. that point is where you change your anchor for longer distances. your sight tape program can't add or subtract from the base spacing used to write the sight program because you changed your anchor.

Or it could be fletching, or broad head wind resistance a number of things that will show up at longer ranges.

 

[Benjamin59]

Op,
I have to ask. Are you actually good enough to know your tape is off 2 yards at 100 yards or did I read something incorrectly? If so, kuddos. I shoot just good enough to get a tape based off of a 20/60 sight in or a 30/60 sight in but it good enough.

One piece of advice I do have is fletching. I had the same problem when using 4 feathers. The problem would read it’s head around the 60 yard mark. It was due to the parachuting effect. Fletcher up with 3 fletch and the problem went away. Just some food for thought.

To be totally honest no I am no pro but I have the ability to notch out bad shots in my head and know when there is a good shot when I sight in on a horizontal line at 60 and 3/4 of them are 3-4” high above the line I know I’m off, when I’m at 50 same thing. Two yards at 40 or 50 is a decent amount but I am def not that high end of a shooter just have the ability to know when I make a good clean shot

 

[Benjamin59]

it could be that you change your anchor point as you shoot farther distances (most people do). that in turn, changes the spacing and/or alignment of your peep and pin, which changes the progressive spacing of your sight marks and the program you use, can't exponentially compensate for that, because it cannot know you changed your anchor point. somewhere along your sight marks, you will have a larger or smaller gap between marks that doesn't follow the rest of the spacing. that point is where you change your anchor for longer distances. your sight tape program can't add or subtract from the base spacing used to write the sight program because you changed your anchor.

Thought of this too I try and anchor my knuckle on my jaw so I stay as consistent as possible

 

[Benjamin59]

I can tell you until I got all the required measurements spot on for AA, my tapes would be off.
Be sure the string and peep measurements are correct for your setup as well as your actual arrow weight and FPS.

Something else to think about... What yardage to you set your peep to?
I typically shoot up to 50 yards, not usually less than 20.
I set my peep height at a 35 yard shot to split the difference. I've had better luck with that as well.

I set mine to about 35 it just picky stage right now or I would just focus on 20-60 sight tapes since that is more then what I would shoot but trying to get detailed with no tournaments going on. I’ll post some pictures tonight after work

 

[Benjamin59]

Btw I love all the input thank you very much I take everyone’s ideas and mold them into something that works for me. I’ll take and send pictures tonight

 

[Benjamin59]

Dead calm tonight no wind at all shot great made some changes I’ll see how they go for the rest of the week. Playing with stabilizer weight alittle getting alittle up and down float but not bad

30 yd


60yd

Sorry the sun is in the way but we rolled the shooting range to plant new grass so it’s in a temp spot

 

[Larry brown]

Lighting can also play on your sight marks. I try to shoot my marks in with the same basic lighting I shoot in. Sometimes it’s different but majority is wooded area for 3D and field.
I sight in at 30/60 then move to 80 and sight in again. I use archers marks and the scale on the outside of my Axcel. Then a put a piece of paper on the top most like and set sight on 30 and move it to 60 and make a very precise dot with a gel pen(seems to be easier to than a pencil unless pencil is ultra sharp). Then I go to my sight tapes and match up a tape(metal for the achieve) and use archers mark to dial my ranges and compare to the actual tape. This has yielded me the fastest way. I have never printed a aa tape that matched perfect the first time.
Usually can tweak my peep height and it will reel in the marks closer in the mid range and make it good.

I have also found shooting at a line I will usually be off on a 3D target consistently throughout the whole tape so I adjust my pointer on my sight while I am shooting at a 3D target.