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Discussion Starter #1
i just bought one of the lancaster sheets with all the different tapes on it, and since you have to shoot at 20 and then 50 and find the closest one, i was wondering if i could just use the pin gap off of my dead nuts to give me a close estimate as to which tape would be closest, so that i dont send to many arrows over the target :sad: is this a good idea or not?
 

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Which sight are you using?

Attach some masking tape, then start up colose and work back and mark the 20, then get your 30, then get your 40, then get your 50. Select the tape that is the closest to the marks you have.

Wasn't sure if you are shooting a target sight or one of the hunter sliders. The target sigts usually have gradiation and you can just make nots on a seperate piece of paper and then you don't even need atape.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it a toxonics 1500 target sight or something like that :wink:
 

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Most likely you can use your other sight for a guide--a place to start. But depending on how far the sight extends from the bow, unless it is the same as your Dead Nuts the sight spread will be different.
 

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I think what you ahve is a sightin sheet that you need two marks one is 20 yards and then the other is 60 yards, then you match up lines and will fine were it fits etc. This does work. But I have a tox 1500 and just put a piece of paper correction tape on the sight and shot in my marks. I put a full line for the even marks and just a dot for the 5 yard marks....
 

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jdoginAr said:
i just bought one of the lancaster sheets with all the different tapes on it, and since you have to shoot at 20 and then 50 and find the closest one, i was wondering if i could just use the pin gap off of my dead nuts to give me a close estimate as to which tape would be closest, so that i dont send to many arrows over the target :sad: is this a good idea or not?
The Lancaster sheets recommend that you sight a mark at 20 and one at 50 to determine the correct sheet. This will work, but the best way I found to get those points is to sight marks at 20, 30, 40 and 50. This will keep you from sending arrows over the target if you work up to the 50 yard setting in 10 yard increments. (By the way...use the largest target you can find.)

I use the scales myself for my target sight (toxonics sight with CBE scope)and they work great. I hadn't shot except up to 50 for 3D until recently. I recently shot a few targets on a field course which included the 80 yard target. I set the sight to the 80 yard mark on the scale, and it was right on.

I had a piece of tape on my tox. I went to our club range where they have FITA targets setup. If you shoot over one of them at 20, something is wrong big time. :mg: I marked the tape at 20, 30, 40 and 50 yards. Then I held the sight scales next to the marks to determine which scale fit the marks the best. Then I set my sight back to the 20 yard setting. Then I pulled the tape off and put on the sight scale. It doesn't matter that the scale goes on exactly where the tape was just as long as you don't move the elevation setting. After the scale is on the sight, you can adjust the pointer with the set screw until it's on the 20 yard mark. Just don't mess with the elevation adjustment.

After, this, you should be good to go.

Hope all this made sense. I have a tendency to be a little long winded sometime. But I did used to be a technical writer, so if you wanted me to write you a procedure and PM it to you, I would. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the help :thumbs_up
 

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Just Remember Too Always Set Your Peep For Your Longest Possible Shot, That Way You Are Most Comfortable There.....aka Get An Idea Where 50 Is And Then Sight In From There, It Can Make A Big Difference In Tapes.....some People Use A Computer Program Makes It Easier, I Do And Love It I Can Punch In All The Numbers Sight In At 50 And I'm Dead On Everything Else....
 

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WDMJR3DBOWGUY said:
Just Remember Too Always Set Your Peep For Your Longest Possible Shot, That Way You Are Most Comfortable There.....aka Get An Idea Where 50 Is And Then Sight In From There, It Can Make A Big Difference In Tapes.....some People Use A Computer Program Makes It Easier, I Do And Love It I Can Punch In All The Numbers Sight In At 50 And I'm Dead On Everything Else....
Not sure what you're saying here BowGuy. Your peep is fixed. Wouldn't much matter where you set the peep. You should be able to see through it the same at 20 yards or 50 yards. Even when I shoot 80 yard in field, my view through the peep is the same. If you bend at the waist for elevated or long range shots, instead of moving your bow arm, won't it be the same? Correct me if I'm wrong. :secret:
 

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kidnutso said:
Not sure what you're saying here BowGuy. Your peep is fixed. Wouldn't much matter where you set the peep. You should be able to see through it the same at 20 yards or 50 yards. Even when I shoot 80 yard in field, my view through the peep is the same. If you bend at the waist for elevated or long range shots, instead of moving your bow arm, won't it be the same? Correct me if I'm wrong. :secret:
i "believe" you could be wrong. i have read many times what Kidnutso said. i dont think the peep will be set at the same position at 20 and 90 meters. the scope is waaaay low at 90 and waaay high at 20. so what i have read many archers do is set the peep height so that you can see the scope set between your max and min intended range. in this case this would be 55 meters. if i was going to shoot 90 70 50 and 30 meters, i would probably set my peep in a way such as when i anchor and have my scope set at 70, i would be in the most comfortable way. from 70 to 90 there shouldnt be much problem, and at 20 and 50 you can make a little more mistake and still get a 10, than at 90. meters. JMT

also, this is why they developed the hoggernaut. since it doesnt moves up or down, you keep a constant anchor point and, according to them, shoot better.
 

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Mexican 3D said:
i "believe" you could be wrong. i have read many times what Kidnutso said. i dont think the peep will be set at the same position at 20 and 90 meters. the scope is waaaay low at 90 and waaay high at 20. so what i have read many archers do is set the peep height so that you can see the scope set between your max and min intended range. in this case this would be 55 meters. if i was going to shoot 90 70 50 and 30 meters, i would probably set my peep in a way such as when i anchor and have my scope set at 70, i would be in the most comfortable way. from 70 to 90 there shouldnt be much problem, and at 20 and 50 you can make a little more mistake and still get a 10, than at 90. meters. JMT

also, this is why they developed the hoggernaut. since it doesnt moves up or down, you keep a constant anchor point and, according to them, shoot better.
Wouldn't be the first time I was wrong, and it won't be the last if I am. :mg:

I've only shot over 50 yds one time this year. And I had my peep set by my local pro shop. They did it indoors with just me looking through it. But it works for me. From 20 out to 50. And the one time I shot 80, I didn't have any problem seeing through it.

But what you're saying makes sense.

:shade:
 

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thats just my opinion, and by the way, on my first post i meant to say:

"i have read many times what WDMJR3DBOWGUY said... "
because i think setting your peep while aiming at the average distance you shoot is a common advice. maybe for bowhunters or even 3Ders it isnt a big deal since the shots are relatively close, but i belive for longer shots it could matter.
 

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I have to concur if you are going to shoot long shots, then take and set the peep at the halfway mark. I use to do this for NFAA and we shot 80 yards so I wanted my eye to be centered in the peep at 40 yards....
 
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