http://www.lancasterarchery.com/bcy-archery-backstop-netting-10-x10.html

I have this netting. It does a very good job of stopping Carbon Impact Super Club arrows out of 20lb bows. But I wouldn't completely trust it to have 100% blocking success.

As a point of reference, it won't stop an X10 out of a 40lb bow.

 

Two layers are needed to stop x10's or any compound arrows, hang them with about 15 inches in between. Even then its not 100% sure.

 

I can say from personal experience, two nets do not a compound arrow stop make. I use rounded points, so sharp points aren't even going to notice the net is there.

 

Can tarp like can be had from Lowe's or HD work?

Thinking about it, it might become a sail which wouldn't be helpful.

 

Can tarp like can be had from Lowe's or HD work?

I don't think so. I've seen heavy drapes used by Byron Ferguson in one of his trick shots videos, but he was shooting blunts.

The net absorbs energy by deflecting the weight of the loose net. Anything too resistant to moving, such as the net being taut, will just be penetrated by the arrow instead. I suspect that a tarp will meet with too much air resistance to deflect enough, and that the arrow will just penetrate. That, and as you note, you'll be putting up a giant sale. Also, there can be liability issues if you go with a solution that is non standard and doesn't work. At least if you go with a standard solution you can say you were following industry norms.

 

I work for a manufacturer or vinyl partitions etc and we have lots of vinyl mesh material like what you see at Lancaster etc. I just thought I could stitch together some of that for a stop.

Maybe get into the backstop game... I dunno. That's why I was wondering.

 

After reading THIS post, I see your original question in a different light.

Here is some of the basic info on the backstop netting:

Archery Backstop Netting
For use with junior bows. Polyester material, white, with ultraviolet resistance. Standard size is 30 ft. x 10 ft. but can be custom made to any specified length. Comes with hanging assembly, cable, clips and tote bag for storage. We also offer a heavier quality green net which will stop most recurve arrows.

WARNING: This netting must be hung loose and free - not tight; order a net length 20% longer than area to be covered. Always check behind the netting before shooting. Do not use with high powered bows or small diameter or carbon arrows. It should never be used to protect people or property. Misuse of this product may result in damage, injury or death.

The net is made by BCY Fibers. Here is their website: http://www.bcyfibers.com/

BCY Bowstring
697 Middle Street
Middletown, CT 06457
Telephone: 860-632-7115
Fax: 860-632-5775

Technical Issues
bcychris@msn.com

If you made up a sample net (even 8' x 8') and sent it to me, I'd be willing to test it.

 

This is the stuff we have pallets of.

http://www.thompsonarchitecturalproducts.com/materials/fabrics/phifertex

Join it on the sewing machine with a 1/2" needle set, run it through the automatic grommeter and hang it up. I would actually have to shoot an arrow at it to test it though... which may be frowned upon here at work.

 

I'm always a big fan of "try it and see if it works" as long as doing so won't endanger anyone. So, if you are curious, go for it. My WAG: the lighter type, open weave fabric will be penetrated, but not all the way by arrows shot by light bows with Carbon Super Clubs, that arrows will be slowed by friction of the filaments - but that is only initially. Arrows could open up holes that future arrows could go all the way through. If any do penetrate it they will have their fletches ripped off. That is my completely WAG, though. I really have no way of knowing what would happen for sure. And I don't know what would happen with the heavy weave fabric. I'm not even going to WAG.

An arrow net is actually really soft and really flexible. The arrows, when it works right, do not penetrate the net. Instead they deflect the net, then fall to the ground. I'm thinking that heavy awning fabric would not work that way.

Coach dchan has made some mesh-faced target bales for light bows out of the mesh used by Sypder Web targets. Although it is a different topic than the one you have brought up, I wonder if any of the awning fabrics could work in place of the special mesh Sypder Web uses? Just thinking out loud....

 

We used to use the green stuff from JVD, which I think is better than that Lancaster stuff. That did stop compound arrows with two layers, but after a while it started to get holes and everything went through then.

Maybe ten years ago we got some heavy duty stuff from local paper mill that had been used in roller belt that was used in paper machines. It certainly did stop everything but it was so heavy that the arrows snapped at point quite often. It's still used in my old club when they have archery displays in events etc to make extremely sure that nothing goes awry. We had a deal with local fencing club at the time, the material had two layers which we could peel apart and the lower part was conductive so it could be used for foil/epee/sabre matt.

 

If you are getting it FOR use in a NASP program, or actually for any 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, you can buy the net directly from NASP at a lower price - the manufacturer subsidizes some of the cost.

See the NASP website http://naspschools.org/ in the "Gear" section to download the appropirate order form.

The net is 10' high, and 30' wide (will span a LITTLE less than 30' because it is supposed to be draped loosely, not stretched taut).

The NASP arrows do nicely bounce off and drop to the floor / ground.

I HAVE used the net outdoors on a few occasions, there are some challenges to hanging and using it outdoors.

My successful method was to run a plastic-coated steel cable (sold in hardware store as a dog tie-out cable) between two solid objects - in my case an eye-bolt in the side of the building and a respectable-size tree. The net was hung from the cable with regular shower-curtain hooks - the kind that look like a big tear-drop.

I did need to anchor down the bottom corners, to keep it from billowing too much in the wind. otherwise it could have rised above the top of the targets or even knocked them over.

Here's a photo.