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Spine problem - arrow recommendations?

878 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  arrowspeak
Hey guys,

I've no problem using carbon Victory VForce 500 3050, with 125 gr points, with my recurves, which are 30# and 35#. My DL is about 27 1/2".

I bought a longbow, 57" 37#@28" and attempted to use the same arrows, but they reacted as if they were stiff. It was necessary to increase the point weight to 175 gr, and max out the BH to 6 5/8". This enables the arrow to straighten out, BUT it also increased the bow weight to where I am overbowed to the extent that my form, thus my consistency, is suffering. So, the longbow "weighs" about 40# with the BH at max, which would be midway between the 30-50# spine range of the arrows, so I don't understand why they were shooting stiffly when they had the 125 gr points - explanation??

This too- I want to have a 25 yd point-on, but with the 175 gr tip, even though my nockset is set to only 1/4, my point-on is only 20 yards.

I shoot 3-D and paper targets at no longer than 30 yards, and I shoot 3 under.

So, to sum up - there are two things going on here: Overbowed which affects form, and arrows too heavy to reach preferred point-on.

If I were to purchase lighter arrows (then decrease the brace height for my comfort), I suppose that my point-on would be better, but at what spine?? What weight?

Do longbows usually take lesser spined arrows than equivalent poundage recurves? Is that the nature of longbows?

Please advise with the usual great advice

Thanks!
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Yes, since the typical longbow is not cut as close to center as recurves are, that effectively increases arrow spine. The same principle holds true when comparing cut past center ilf recurves to other "traditional" recurves that are not cut as far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, since the typical longbow is not cut as close to center as recurves are, that effectively increases arrow spine. The same principle holds true when comparing cut past center ilf recurves to other "traditional" recurves that are not cut as far.
Thank you for your response. The longbow looks as though it is cut to center. I'll have to check with the bowyer for a definitive answer to that. If it's not cut to center, then yes, I can understand why it would impose a stiffer spine, BUT, how does one request a properly spined arrow for a longbow as opposed to a recurve? Five pounds less? Ten? Twenty?

Thanks!
 

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Realistically you are overspined for both, the centercut and form issues with the longbow just push it way beyond an acceptable tune.

-Grant
 

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Arrow,

Here is the response I made on another forum; This is the third place you posted that I know of. You are getting pretty much the same response an all forums.

"Since no one else has answered, here is my take. I do not shoot carbon arrows but have to say that a .500/.600 (whatever 3050s are) spine arrow is PROBABLY too stiff for any of your bows.

Next,I do not believe that a 1/4" nocking point is high enough and frankly I also do NOT believe that just changing your nocking point has a very large (if any) effect on your POD. Most bows like a 3/4" high nocking point for 3 under and around 1/2" for split finger.

I also do not agree that just changing your brace height changes your draw weight to the effect you seem to indicate. Staying within the bowyer's recommended brace will not affect overall draw weight that much (if at all). It simply changes the BEGINNING location for the force draw curve, not the full draw end.

You do not say what the center cut is for your bows. Your recurves MAY be center cut which will allow a greater tolerance for spine. Your "long bow" sounds to be a high reflex/deflex bow (many of which are center cut) but if cut short of center, MAY require weaker spined arrows. 57" is really a short "longbow". And, yes, long (straight ended) bows generally don't put as much energy into the arrow so a weaker spine is often indicated.

The LARGEST change for POD is the arrow nock location on your face ( how far below your eye the nock is); so are you changing your anchor position some between bows? FYI, MOST folks find a natural 30-35 yard POD 3 under and 50-60 yards split finger. Getting the POD down to the 20-25 yard range will take some serious experimentation and many find that is the place to start exploring string walking a little.

Not sure what your experience level is so don't mean to insult, but I do feel you are chasing your tail a little -- trying to "fix" too many things too fast. Good luck with it all though.

Arne"
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, I posted the question to 3 forums in a quest to obtain as much good information as possible, and you guys are coming through, for which I am most thankful.

And no, Arne you haven't insulted me by any means.
 

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GT Warrior 700 full length. Point weight should let you tune that well enough for each bow to get clean flight.

-Grant
 

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And, Lancaster sells individual shafts, just in case you want to get a collection of single shafts, just in case, and then buy a dozen (or more) once you figure out what works best.

Grant's suggestion sounds like a great starting point, though :) Let us know.
 
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