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Discussion Starter #1
I've been shooting .390 or .400 spined arrows since I started shooting 60lb limbs a few years ago. I currently shoot a 29" Z7 set at 61lbs and .390 spined Easton ACC Pro hunters cut to 29.5" and 100gr broadheads. I haven't had too many problems getting my set-up to paper tune but I'm right in-between a .340 and .400 spine on all the charts.

Should I be shooting .340? If add the 23gr insert to the Easton shaft selector chart (125gr total point weight) it recommends I shoot .340.

I have a 60lb MR7 on the way. I'm guessing it will be at least 62lbs buttoned all the way down. Even at 60 it will be a bit faster than my current set-up. Should I stick with the lighter .390 or go to the .340?
 

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If it tunes "down the middle" and the BH and FP are impacting together stay with what you have. How good are the groups at 20, 30 and 40...consistent? If it was me I would jump up but I have always favored arrows on the stiff side....29.5" arrows do not help, maybe you can cut an existing arrow down some and see how it reacts instead of buying new arrows? I'm shooting a 28" arrow with 29.25" DL....I'm also shooting 72# and 300 spine arrows. Just commenting on the arrow length...
 

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If u want to cut them @ 29.5" and shoot closer to 60lbs I would definitely go with the .340's. If you cut them @ 28" and shot around 55 the 400's should be fine....but seeing how they shoot is the only answer.

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Discussion Starter #4
They shoot good but could be better. I can keep 5 arrows in a 4-6" group at 40 and 50 yards consistently, usually better. I probably should shoot shorter arrows though...
 

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340 spine is stiffer tahn a 390 spine. So if you want to cut them down that would change the dynamic spine which would be about the same as changing to a 340. Arrows aren't cheap. I'd just cut down one or two and see what you get. You might be pleasantly surprised. And by the way, 4-6" groups at 50 yards isn't half bad. Probably better than 75% of the people shooting bows today.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That was my point, instead of changing arrows and using a .340 spine I could cut them down. I'm happy shooting my 29.5" arrows with a 29" draw and feel there are several benefits to that. I shoot fixed blade heads for big game and at times bows will tune a little close to the riser, any hand torque could cause the BH to brush the riser on the way down range. That would take some serious torque and may or may not be a valid argument though. The other reason is that it takes all the timing guess work out for your drop away rest. I've heard of guys getting the arrow pulled off the string when they started shooting BH's with an arrow that was cut too short. (for clarification, the front of the shelf pulled the arrow off, not the rest)

I'll most likely stick with my arrow length and buy 1/2 dozen (.340) arrows and see if they perform better or worse. At this point it's just nit-picky micro tuning but archery is all about the details IMO.

Thanks for the replies...
 

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If you have an arrow taken off by the shelf on a modern compound then the CC is way off, you could eat dinner off of some of the cutouts I've seen! I've had close conditions before and it was from force feeding the bow and arrow it didn't like...
 

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That was my point, instead of changing arrows and using a .340 spine I could cut them down. I'm happy shooting my 29.5" arrows with a 29" draw and feel there are several benefits to that. I shoot fixed blade heads for big game and at times bows will tune a little close to the riser, any hand torque could cause the BH to brush the riser on the way down range. That would take some serious torque and may or may not be a valid argument though. The other reason is that it takes all the timing guess work out for your drop away rest. I've heard of guys getting the arrow pulled off the string when they started shooting BH's with an arrow that was cut too short. (for clarification, the front of the shelf pulled the arrow off, not the rest)

I'll most likely stick with my arrow length and buy 1/2 dozen (.340) arrows and see if they perform better or worse. At this point it's just nit-picky micro tuning but archery is all about the details IMO.

Thanks for the replies...
Or you could do something inexpensive and easy by staying with the 390 spine and dropping the bow weight a few pounds. People get hung up on draw weight without realizing that it's much easier to tune the arrow to the bow instead of the other way around. Besides, that's one of the benefits of having limb bolts on a bow.

People ask whether to go stiff or limber when the arrow spine falls somewhere in the middle. The whole act of tuning is to optimize the arrow/bow combo. Yeah, you can play around with different fletchings and point weights. Shorten an arrow, etc, but in the end the most sensible thing is to drop a few pounds if the arrow spine is weak. Afterall, poundage is just a snumber and so is KE.
 

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Or you could do something inexpensive and easy by staying with the 390 spine and dropping the bow weight a few pounds. People get hung up on draw weight without realizing that it's much easier to tune the arrow to the bow instead of the other way around. Besides, that's one of the benefits of having limb bolts on a bow.

People ask whether to go stiff or limber when the arrow spine falls somewhere in the middle. The whole act of tuning is to optimize the arrow/bow combo. Yeah, you can play around with different fletchings and point weights. Shorten an arrow, etc, but in the end the most sensible thing is to drop a few pounds if the arrow spine is weak. Afterall, poundage is just a snumber and so is KE.
In the first paragraph I meant it is easier to TUNE THE BOW TO THE ARROW rather than the other way around.
 

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Just cut the ones you have down. Even with your "concerns" about the broadheads and the riser. Which IMO aren't a real concern because that would be some serious torque and if your torquing that bad your going to miss anyway:wink: But if your draw is 29" you can cut your arrows down to 28" and they will still put the point in front of your riser. Your actual dl to the berger hole is actually only 27.75" So a shaft length of 28" will put your broadhead plenty out the front.

Cut em down.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I might do that to a few and test them out. I know the torqueing thing is a long stretch...I have heard of several guys that shot field points then screwed on BH's only to have their arrow pulled off the string when they drew. Not like I would do that for the first time on a hunt or anything so It will be worth a test.
 
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