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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll try to keep this as simple as possible and hope it helps those wanting to make a few strings and cables for their own use. For this build along, I'm using a DIY jig, posts, stretcher and twister. I'm not selling jigs, serving machines or strings for that matter. Just home-made, garage and basement stuff here that most any DIYselfer can put together and make perfectly usable strings with.

Split buss cables........ Sometimes called yokes (not yolks, those are in eggs), buss cables or split yokes. You find at least 1 of them on nearly all modern single, hybrid and duel-cam systems. Usually they attach to a cam post on one end of the bow and at the axle on the other end. There are endless ways to build these but for the sake of being simple, we will try about 3 ways with a few variations thrown in.

Stay tuned and I'll get rolling with the pics as time permits.............
 

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Your just like the weather man! Build us up for tomorrows weather and break for a comercial

I'll try to keep this as simple as possible and hope it helps those wanting to make a few strings and cables for their own use. For this build along, I'm using a DIY jig, posts, stretcher and twister. I'm not selling jigs, serving machines or strings for that matter. Just home-made, garage and basement stuff here that most any DIYselfer can put together and make perfectly usable strings with.

Split buss cables........ Sometimes called yokes (not yolks, those are in eggs), buss cables or split yokes. You find at least 1 of them on nearly all modern single, hybrid and duel-cam systems. Usually they attach to a cam post on one end of the bow and at the axle on the other end. There are endless ways to build these but for the sake of being simple, we will try about 3 ways with a few variations thrown in.

Stay tuned and I'll get rolling with the pics as time permits.............
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
We will look at a few different ways to build a split yoke and start with my least favorite method. Simple enough to make and if you have made a 2 color shooting string before, this will be easy. I serve most all of my strings with the tag ends and we will use that throughout. I don't have a name for it but for the sake of things, we can call it the "doubled" method. We will end up with a 2 color , split buss with each leg of the split having both colors. Should end up with something like this...





You will notice that the cam, or bottom loop is NOT served and this is an option that we will look at later. I would normally serve this for good measure but of the ones I have left not served, they all functioned and performed well with no issues. If you are familiar with Mathews bows and their past factory strings, no doubt you have seen this before.

I hope the colors will stand out enough to show detail. I picked these 2 with that in mind.



Layout goes like this...
2 post is all you need for this method. Because we are gonna start the layout as a shooting string and then fold it in half to make a buss, the post will be set at twice the length of the finished buss cable plus the add on for twisting. I usually add an additional 1/4" to my UNTWISTWED target length for the turn that makes the cam loop. I want this finished buss to measure 30". I add whatever I normally would for a shooting string this length,in this case a shade over .25, PLUS 1/4" for the cam loop. This makes my post set at 60.5 or there abouts.

I'll get the pics sorted out and get that started next.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
With the post set, start wrapping your strands. We want our buss to have a total of 24 strands when finished so we will wrap 6 strands of the first color and then 6 of the next color giving us a total of 12 strands. When we fold that over to make the buss we will will end up with a 24 strand buss.

6 strand of the red leaving the red tags at this post.



And 6 strands of the yellow leaving the yellow tags at the opposite end.



Using the tag ends, serve the 2 ends and tie off like this.



The string goes from the post to the stretcher where we fold in in half with both of the end loops on 1 peg and the loop formed by the fold over the opposite peg. Put in whatever you will use to seperate the 2 colors for twisting making sure each color is seperated. Put a little tension on it and let it sit for a few minutes to stabilize.





More to come.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You should be ready to twist now, Crank up the poundage.......



and twist away.....



until it looks sometime like this....



The hard part is over. Nothing left but a little serving and that part is easy. Leave the string just as it is when you finished the twist. I start with the area just below where the split will be and usually make this serving about 2" long. Need a pic here but it seems to be MIA. Anyway, relax the stretch and remove one of the loop from the post, crank the tension back up and serve one of the loops. I like to make this serving around 1 1/2" as it is on a area of the bow thats gets banged around alot.



Melt the tags, swap the loops on the post and serve the other loop. When you finish there, you can then work on the cam end of the cable.

Remember above where we mentioned that the cam loop could be served if you like. This is the way I add a piece of scrap strand and serve the loop that you have no tag end on. Simple and easy to do.





All that is left of the cam end is adding the necessary serving.



This cable is just a prop and doesn't fit anything so I just picked a spot and started serving. Should look something like this when you finish.



Next, we will try another method that i like much better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Some random thoughts so far......

#1 Always take more pics than you think you need!

#2 Dark serving covers better over the lighter colors and looks much neater to me. Trying to cover up a dark color when using the tag ends is almost impossible and the fluorescent colors make it even harder. With the 452x I'm using here, it's plain to see how the colors can show through some. White or clear serving may be the exception but you better make sure whatever is underneath is crisp and neat or you will really end up with ugly. Try and remember that as you plan a build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
On to another method and the one I use most often. I'll try and do better with the pics this time. A point and shoot camera is all I got to work with.....

Anyway, this split yoke will have a soild color for each split and each loop will have it's own tag end for serving. I have no data to back up my claim but I feel this is the most stable split buss that I can build. Same colors as the first one and it should end up looking like this.



For the layout, you will need 3 post. Again, we will have a 24 strand buss so we will place 12 strands at each leg of the split. Tag ends are needed at all three post for the loops. With 2 colors and 3 post that need tags, you will have to start and stop one of the colors 2 times. Lost yet? Not to worry.

Start the wraps by putting 6 strands on one of the legs of the split and leave the tags at one post.





Next, start at the opposite end and place 6 more strands of the same color leaving the tags at the other end. You now have 12 strands for one leg with tags left at each post.With me so far?






We will add the red strands next....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The red will go on next and again 12 strands. Because we already have the tags at the loop AND the cam end of the buss, all we need is tags for the red split so just leave the tags at the loop end.






We will serve the loops next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I usually serve the cam loop first and then move over to the split loops. Should happen like this...






And the split loops......






We will move over to the stretcher next time.......
 

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ok..Im lost somewhere..12 in the split loops each and 24 in the far loop and equals out to 48 in the main body of the string..Im confused at this point and thats not hard to do
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ok..Im lost somewhere..12 in the split loops each and 24 in the far loop and equals out to 48 in the main body of the string..Im confused at this point and thats not hard to do

Maybe this will help......The ENTIRE cable is made up of 2 bundles of strands, 1 yellow, 1 red with each bundle consisting of 12 strands. It may be a little more clear when we start the twist. These pics showing the layout with the post moved closer together will make it a little more easy to see....









When this gets moved to the stretcher for the twist, the lower portion of the cable will consist of the 2 bundles of red and yellow (each with 12 strands) spiraled together and the top portion spliting apart to form each loop. Hope that helped.
 

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Thanks for some great info.

I pressume that the section on serving the cable wherethe two sections split off will be covered later ...

Will you also be doing a section on serving the two yoke ends with serving all the way around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Now we will stretch and twist the cable and apply the cam servings as required.The 2 split loops will go on 1 post together and the cam loop on the other. I usually crank the cable up to about #300 and let it sit a few mins for the strands to equalize. I then insert separators to isolate each color, burnish each bundle and apply the twist.











Continue with the twist until you reach half of the required number. I remove the separator on the cam end at this point and then finish the twist and leave the separator in the split loop end.





Next, we can begin the serving and our cable will begin to look more like a finished product.
 

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so you never close your end loops before putting up to 300lbs??? i close mine then twist/stretch. would think without them closed up may be some unwanted movement?
 
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