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what is a good setup for spot targets at 20 yards?? do I want to use a heavier arrow to keep it more controlled?? or what is good?? what about FOC?? i know nothin about it?? small vanes?? large feathers? if ya can help me out a little.. Thanks Justin
I had so much fun shooting that round the other day i want to get more into it..
 

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For indoors IMHO you don't need to be as worried about FOC. Having said that, I would use at least 4" vanes or feathers indoors. You don't have any wind or outside factors, so you should stabilize that arrow as much as you can. A good place to start is to just use the recommended arrow from the Easton target chart. Hope this helps. Indoor archery is a blast. :)
 

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The fatter arrows, "linecuttters" will/should give you higher scores. The best way to increase your score would be to use back tension, if not already, practice aiming, get a good shot sequence, relax, and have fun..............:D ................ck
 

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I know a lot of shooters that initially 'thought' that the fat shafts and "linecutters" as they are called would automatically give them higher scores - - and those people fell flat on their tails. Reason being they gave up shooting strong shots and good form and expected the arrows to just do it by themselves.

I, for one, have never once shot a 60X 300 on the blue face with the 2512's or 2613's - -but shot numerous 60X-300s and numerous 450 Vegas and 300 Vegas rounds with knitting needle, correctly spined, 1714's arrows with 7% points in them! Used to love it when I would win tournaments with knitting needles when shooting against people with the "line-cutters".

So, linecutters are NOT the automatic thing most people think they are - they require solid FORM, solid SHOOTING, and everything being set up correctly - and the person NOT thinking it is automatic - - if you don't do things right, the fat shafts become a LIABILITY rather than an asset.

field14:D ;) :rolleyes:
 

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I agree 100% w/ field 14. I have always had better more consistant scores with nitting needles. As a matter of fact the only time I ever shot 55 X's was with 3-18's. The fat overspined 2512's and 2613's are alot more touchy. I am going back to properly spined ACC's or 1914's or 2014's this year.
 

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what is FOC?
 

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Good points

Field and Hornet,

Good points. I really believe it depends on a lot of factors to get big arrows working well. I do believe if you have excellent form, the perfect shot and lots of time playing with different combinations with the big arrows, they will shoot as well as the smaller ones. Having said that a lot of people just put 2512's or 2613's on their bow and expect a magic high score. It doesn't normally happen. I usually advise people just to go off the easton chart for the recommended arrow and not to worry about the size.

Cory,

FOC means "front of center" different point weight combinations will give you a higher or lower % of FOC
 

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Everyone forgets that you still have to make the shot. I have noticed over the years when shooting the fat shafts if you have a less than perfect shot the arrow is out buy alot more than they are with the correct spined arrow. The are line cutters for the avg shooter because you just barely stayed in the 5. But if you had been shooting the correct arrow they would have been alot closer to the X. Atleast that is what I have found. If you want to shoot telephone poles you had better put atleast 200 grains up front. I shot 2412 last year with about 180 grains in them and they worked alot better than the 2512's and the 2613's but not buy much.
 

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I believe for a starting shooter one should shoot correctly spined arrows. I would worry more about the shot routine and form before worrying about your score. I know it's tough to do but it will help you in the long run. I've found for myself that I can get the 2512's to be a very forgiving arrow.... after A LOT of trial and error. I know exactly where my arrow should be after the shot occurs... if it's not there and I know my form and shot sequence was good then I will modify the way my bow is tuned. For me I've found that perfect bullet holes do not work for me with both overspined and correctly spined arrows. I just keep playing around so it works the way it's supposed to. So now you wouldn't be able to pry those 2512's from my hands. For a starting archer or someone less than an intermediate level shooter I would strongly recommend a correctly spined arrow shaft.
 

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archery1: FOC is Front Of Center and indicates how far in front of the physical center of your arrow is the center-of-gravity. In should generally be around 12-15 percent of the length of the shaft. Things that are tail-heavy fly terribly. Many aircraft have crashed because they became tail-heavy, including a B-1 bomber during a test flight.

Get the Easton Shaft Selection Program and in the lower left corner, you will find a button to calculate F.O.C. Then, on the second page, click on "Front Of Center" at the top.

In generally, moving the FOC forward will have a stabilizing effect and moving it backwards will have a de-stabilizing effect; ignoring spine and other related factors. That is one reason feathers are better than plastic vanes; they are lighter than feathers and they are at the tail end. Saving weight on the tail is generally a good idea. Or, you can change the weight of the point and make the arrow heavier (not always desirable) by changing the weight of the point to move FOC forward.

I checked my arrows and found some that had the FOC too far to the rear to be stable. I switched to a heavier point. I am also considering replacing the vanes with feathers.
 

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Another viewpoint.

Rather than deal with FOC, I believe if you keep the balance point (center-of-gravity) within one inch of ONE-THIRD of the shaft length from the front, then you will have a good balance.

For example, for a 30 inch arrow, the CG should be in the range of 10-11 inches from the front of the shaft; with 10 being the more desirable number. For a 27 inch arrow, the CG should be 9-10 inches front the front of the shaft.

Jim Holloman
 

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Justin, you will ahve a blast shooting spots!:D Those X's are addicting!:p Good Luck and Shoot Strait >>-------->X I would use 4" feathers and a properly spined arrow. Just my .02.
 

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FOC isn't as important indoors as it is outside. Also if you are shooting properly spined aluminums your FOC doesn't need to be as high as it does for carbons. You should be okay with 7-9% for aluminums (correct spine) and i like to be around 11-12 % for carbons.
 

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O.K. let me ask, is there an easier way to find the proper spine shaft for your bow without having to buy set after set of arrows, (that can get expensive). Or as longe as you follow the manufactorers chart you should be super close?
 

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I just go buy the spine numbers and after trial and error over the years plus AA and TAP I know what will work and what won't.
 

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I shoot 2512's , but I have a 30" draw and at 72#'s they are spined correctly.:) I plan on getting a 60# bow for target when the new ones come out. My current set up is great for 3-D and hunting, but is a bit much for spots. I also will get lighter arrows that are spined correctly for 60#'s.
 

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HP10 You can shoot your 2512's at 60lbs you just need to put more weight up front. You won't have as much problem getting them to apine out correctly because you have a longer power stroke than most.
 

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Hornet, Thanks for the info.:) That would save me some $ and hassle. Alot simpler to have 1 size. Besides with my wife and kid's arrows we got em' everywhere as it is.:D
 
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