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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Schnne got me into this wood arrow stuff so I need all the info I can get.

First and foremost I am shooting 58#@28.75" from a Hatfield Takedown recurve. Got a brand new string ( what a difference that made). Shoot instinctive.

Well now for the arrow part. I shoot Easton GGII at 29". I like the bhead/fieldpoint right at the riser. They fly fantastic. I shoot 4 5" feathers and they are dipped.

Schnee found a place where we can get wood arrows for cheap. I just want to get started with wood cause I like the looks of them.
Need to know what spine I should try.

Also for the stain stuff. I used some cheap minwax I got for a buck and the Saunders glue I used didn't stick well on a few of the feathers. Had to add a lot of glue along the sides to get it to stick. So what stains work with archery glue?

Well now that I wrote a novel for 2 questions thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Breid, For stain, I use good old Black Walnut's collected from the woods as I scout/hunt. I put them in a plastic container with some water, and let them turn deep black. The smell is alot better than oil based stains. Just take a rag and dip it into the container and wipe on til desired color is attained. Be extremely careful, cause it will be permanant on anything it touches. You may even want to wear gloves. For storage, put in a cool place with lid sealed tight. It lasts for years and is beautiful and natural. After the shafts have dried, seal them with polyurethane. Apply about 6 coats, steel wooling lightly between applications. They can be fletched with Duco cement. You can get it at just about any hardware/convenience/wal-mart store for about 1.50$
 

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I use the stain you can pick up at the dollar store, I purchasedr several types from redwood to walnut. The key to fletching is either using duco cement ( works on anything ) or the fletch tape. I use the fletch tape as I can do a doz arrows in a hour.I dip my arrows after I crown dip them in poly water base and I do three dips. I have a spong and as I take they out of the dip tube I then wipe them off, let dry for about a hour and then I do a second dip,and after the final dip I do wipe down with extra fine steel wool. I store the finished shafts in a paper arrow box in a big plastic bag that is sealed. I keep in my basement were it is cool.
As for what size would fit the wood spine, I suggest you go to 3 rivers site and check out there spine chart. I like a stiff shaft as I seem alway to get it to fly, so if I was ordering I would get a 65 spine arrow as you are 58 at your draw length. What type of field points are you going to use 125 gr ? I also get my crown dip paint at the dollar store, they just had high visability yellow in gloss poly pain for dollar a qt, picked up 4 qts and did a doz arrows with a full dip of the high gloss yellow, they came out great and sure helps when I miss the target to find the arrows, also did a doz with just 10 inch crown dip and then the rest of the shaft in walnut. I then fletched with 5.5 inch yellow feathers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have the Bohning for the dipping. I just got these arrows from the local shop. He gave them to me and I wanted to see how they looked. I really like them.

I like the idea about the walnut stain, but have no idea if that grows here in Colorado. Or for that matter where to even look.

I am going to try to buy three diff. spines and see what happens. Just hope the guy will sell them like that. Thanks for the help. Anything else is appreciated. Oh and I am using saunders glue. But I do have Goat Tuff also.
 

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Bierd,

SPINE
Wood shafts are spined at 28", so if you're cutting yours to 29" and shooting them from a 58# bow (55-60# range), I would recomend shafts spined @ 60-65# at least. If you want to experiment, then order your first dozen shafts in two or three different spine groups and try them out.

STAINING/FINISHING
Pretty much any commercial or home-made stain and finish will work for arrows, as long as they're compatible. (ie. don't mix an oil-based stain and a water-based finish). I use water-based because of low odor and easy clean-up.

For more traditional arrows, I prefer to hand finish my shafts with Watco Oil and hand fletch them by tying on the feathers with sinew and hide glue. I find it more fun, and it works well for roving and hunting arrows. For target arrows however, I use the varathane as it adds extra protection.

GLUE
Fletch-Tite works well on Varathane. Duco Cement works well on pretty much anything.

Cazador
 

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Breid,
The problem you're having with the glue sticking is because of the oil stain. This is the same problem wooden boat builders run into when working on their oiled decks. The solution (apart from the suggestions given above) is to go ahead and use the oil stain but, after it has completely dried, degrease it where you want to fletch. You can use something gentle like Simple Green or you can get really serious and use acetone - both degrease just fine.

I would go easy on giving wood arrows multiple coats of varnish or such as you may well stiffen the shaft in the process. I like the oil based stains myself as they also seal the wood against moisture (which in the Northwest is a serious consideration).
 
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