[Sophia]

I'm an avid hunter that has never used a bow before. While I have visions of stalking up on a huge desert mule deer for that perfect 30 yard shot, the reality is more likely to be javelina. With that in mind, I'm trying to sort out what pull weight I should be aiming at.

Visited my local shop which only deals in PSE bows. The guy in the shop was gently trying to steer me towards the Stinger. His suggestion that it was a good "starter bow" immediately made me put it in the category of something that I would be looking to trade up from in a year or so. Generally, I shy away from that kind of gear and prefer to buy the right one the first time instead of buying twice after outgrowing starter gear. I'm not sure if that philosophy fits in the archery world or not -- you guys will have to let me know if I'm off base in considering skipping his recommendation of going with the Stinger and instead starting with the Bow Madness model I have my eye on.

Even with that decision sorta-kinda made, I'm thrashing around on the pull weight question. I think it boils down to this: get a 50# bow and just live with it, even if I am/get strong enough to pull 55# without a sweat? Or get a 60# bow and dial it down to 55#?

I try-pulled several of the bows in the shop. I can pull a 60# bow straight back (no pointing at the sky) four times before I'm too tired to pull it again. I can pull a 45# bow at least a dozen times without much effort (put it back on the rack after 12 pulls and moved up in weight because it was too easy, not because I was tired). I pulled a bow dialed down to 55# several times without any noticible strain but didn't really give it much of a test.... I'll have to go back and give that one a better try.

I'm a pretty sturdy gal and workout regularly.... pushups, pullups, etc.

Given my fitness level and intended use (hunting javelina) would you recommend:
- get the 50# bow and just stick with it;
- get the 60# bow and dial it down.

 

[B16vtec]

I am by no means an expert on bow tuning but ive had several bows for hunting and this is just my experience... i would go with the #60 turned back to #55 because if you do get stronger and are "just living with it" at #55 you'll want to upgrade. I learned this lesson the hard way when i bought a bow that topped at #55 thinking id be fine with that draw, and within 2 years i had outgrown it and had to buy a heavier pull to get the range/speed i wanted. Thats just my $0.02, hope it helps you in your decision!

 

[Blackhawkhunter]

If you can draw a 60# ok I would go with that. You can wind it down to 50# to start then increase the draw down the track.
The Stinger is not a bad bow as is the Chaos but if your budget allows I would spend a bit more. Best thing to do is try as many as you can and go with what feels best for you.

 

[Lookinforlunker]

Buy a bow you can shoot a lot. If you can shoot 55lbs all day then go with that, if not get the 50lbs. 50lbs with the right arrow set up is enough for your dream mulie hunt

 

[soonershooter]

Best way to tell your draw weight is to draw bow sitting in a chair. If you can't draw the bow sitting down it is to much pull. Lower it down till you can do it in a chair. From there just work your way up. it won't take long as you might think, you will be raising your poundage in no time..

 

[bob cooly]

Find and archery club nearby and ask a ton of questions. Better to be slightly underbowed to start than overbowed and risk an injury. Ebay is full of 70# bows and people with shoulder injuries. Martin bows have 15 pounds of adjustment, but the winner for adjustabilty is Missons Craze. Just do your homework and take some time to pick whats right for you.

 

[rutjunky]

Dont buy a "starter" bow. Buy what y like and what excites u. With todays bows a 50 to 60 lbs bow will kill anything in america. Get a good dozen arrows and start off at 50lbs. Shoot 5 arrows a day for a week. Then go to 20 arrows a day for a week. Keep moving up untill 50 arrows a day is comfortable. If you feel like it turn your poundage up some. Keep going until your confident in your gear and yourself. PRATICE PRATICE PRATICE. anymore queations p.m. me and we can get you lined out. Good luck and the pse evo is a bad azz bow if your interested in it at all.

 

[bowhntng4evr]

Go with a draw weight that is comfortable enough for you to shoot many arrows with continuously, without getting too tired.

 

[whitetail101]

I'm an avid hunter that has never used a bow before. While I have visions of stalking up on a huge desert mule deer for that perfect 30 yard shot, the reality is more likely to be javelina. With that in mind, I'm trying to sort out what pull weight I should be aiming at.

Visited my local shop which only deals in PSE bows. The guy in the shop was gently trying to steer me towards the Stinger. His suggestion that it was a good "starter bow" immediately made me put it in the category of something that I would be looking to trade up from in a year or so. Generally, I shy away from that kind of gear and prefer to buy the right one the first time instead of buying twice after outgrowing starter gear. I'm not sure if that philosophy fits in the archery world or not -- you guys will have to let me know if I'm off base in considering skipping his recommendation of going with the Stinger and instead starting with the Bow Madness model I have my eye on.

Even with that decision sorta-kinda made, I'm thrashing around on the pull weight question. I think it boils down to this: get a 50# bow and just live with it, even if I am/get strong enough to pull 55# without a sweat? Or get a 60# bow and dial it down to 55#?

I try-pulled several of the bows in the shop. I can pull a 60# bow straight back (no pointing at the sky) four times before I'm too tired to pull it again. I can pull a 45# bow at least a dozen times without much effort (put it back on the rack after 12 pulls and moved up in weight because it was too easy, not because I was tired). I pulled a bow dialed down to 55# several times without any noticible strain but didn't really give it much of a test.... I'll have to go back and give that one a better try.

I'm a pretty sturdy gal and workout regularly.... pushups, pullups, etc.

Given my fitness level and intended use (hunting javelina) would you recommend:
- get the 50# bow and just stick with it;
- get the 60# bow and dial it down.

The correct way to determine your correct draw weight is to perfrorm the following test:

Draw the bow from the standing position - if you cheat(aim for the sky) then lower the poundage
Draw the bow while sitting in a chair - again if you cheat, lower the poundage
Draw the bow while kneeling - again lower poundage if you have to cheat
Draw the bow while sitting on the ground - again lower poundage if you are cheating to dra the bow.

Once you can draw a bow in all of these positions(these are positions you will encounter while hunting), then you have your correct draw weight

Good luck

 

[Easykeeper]

Keep in mind that compounds loose value faster than just about anything you can think of. Don't buy a bow with the intent of "trading" up in the near future without being willing to take a big loss financially. There are a lot of used bows in the classifieds, many people never buy new... By the one you want now and keep it for a few years. Or check out the classifieds.

As far as draw weight, a fifty pound compound will kill anything you will probably hunt. It's also a lot more difficult to pull a bow over when your cold and stiff from sitting in your stand for hours. Lower poundage bows are also lot more fun to shoot for extended target sessions. I'm 5'11", 240# and been a weight lifter for thirty years. I shoot 55# out of my compound and 56# out of my recurve. I don't need more weight and find I'm more accurate with lower draw weight bows. Nothing wrong with high draw weight bows, just remember you don't need it.

Most 50# draw weight bows will actually peak at a few pounds over 50# with the limb bolts cranked down all the way. I'd rather shoot a 50# bow maxed out than a 60# at the bottom at the bottom of it's weight range.

 

[carbon arrow1]

Ted Negent killed a 1000lb moose and several large African game animals with a martin firecat set at 47 lbs....just saying.

 

[jimrau]

I see a lot of shooters with arm and shoulder problems from shooting too much weight too many times for too many years. It is a balance between age, conditioning, and how much you will shoot.

 

[Chromie]

Sophia,

glad to see you show up around here too! I sent a PM on RFC as well.

buy a quality bow that you can shoot the snot out of, my first deer was killed with a 52 lb PSE by the way, I was 13.:wink:

 

[MichaelT]

You are better off getting the best bow you can afford, but what is most important is if it is comfortable for you to shoot. Bows are expensive, you don't want to have to buy another in year so if you can pull 50/55 comfortably, get the 60lb model and adjust it down. If you get stronger and are able to pull 60 lbs great, if not shooting it at 50/55 lbs wont hurt anything either. But make sure you can pull it back enough times to adequately practice, you wont get better if you can only shoot 4 shots at a time. If you intend to hunt with it take into account that extra clothing and colder temps will make it hard to pull back also.

 

[barthowes]

I am a huge fan of 50-60# bows. that way you can start practicing at lower poundage and have it fully cranked in long beforehunting season. I personally just leave mine maxed out but 59# for me is easy, just the way I like it.

 

[Christopher67]

The correct way to determine your correct draw weight is to perfrorm the following test:

Draw the bow from the standing position - if you cheat(aim for the sky) then lower the poundage
Draw the bow while sitting in a chair - again if you cheat, lower the poundage
Draw the bow while kneeling - again lower poundage if you have to cheat
Draw the bow while sitting on the ground - again lower poundage if you are cheating to dra the bow.

Once you can draw a bow in all of these positions(these are positions you will encounter while hunting), then you have your correct draw weight

Good luck

I agree with this.

 

[bob cooly]

Some bows are easier to draw more weight than others. Very harsh cams mean lots of speed but tough draw cycles. Ditto for very short brace heights and short bows. One I am looking at is the PSE Vendetta XL. Seems like a good all around bow for fun shoots to hunting and 3-D. It really comes down to what you want the bow to do. Keep trying bows until that magic goes off.

 

[drturi]

60# is what you need, after two or three weeks I shooting everyday you'll build those muscles and draw 60 lbs without any effort. Right now you said you can draw 60 lbs straight back without pointing to the sky. well thats the key now it's just repetition to build those muscles. Archery is unique in that you use musles you normally don't use so it takes a little while to tone and shape them.

 

[kimmiedawn]

ok if u can draw 55# easy and are able to draw 60 then go with the 50-60# bow. dial it down to your "comfort level" And as for outgrowin and havin to upgrade. All good top of the line bows now you dont have to trade bows, just upgrade limbs. Me my self I draw in the mid to upper 40# range bows comfortably. I shot a 50# bow the other day and did 12 times but prefer 45-47ish range. Go with what YOU want and what fits you. not what everyone else tells ya to do..

 

[Sophia]

Thanks for all the advice so far, especially the tips about checking for ease of draw while sitting. Don't expect I'll do any shooting from tree stands (given the terrain in the area) but I can see that brush and so on could cause some awkward shooting positions.

I've read elsewhere that PSE bows sometimes come in a little heavy, meaning that a 50# bow will sometimes come in at 53# or 55# when maxed out. Anybody experienced this with PSE bows? Specifically thinking BowMadness & Stinger.