Archery Talk Forum banner

1 - 20 of 196 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24,761 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Straight forward tuning >>————>

There is always the debate in regards to rest adjustments for cleaning up a right tear, left tear, broadheads right, left etc.

A very easy way to look at things when tuning is the.....
* tip weight will always want to get behind the path of the aimstring*.

This will not change when putting a broadhead on, it’s still tip weight.

So if you have a tail left tear, which would always be bareshafts impacting to the right. This is an indication that your rest is to the left of the path of the aimstring.

A remedy would be to move the rest to the right so tip weight gets on a perfect path behind the aimstring.

Another option would be to move cams to the left while leaving rest alone. This will do the same thing and have tip weight directly behind the path of the aimstring.

Another option when applicable is to adjust the yoke by adding twist o the left yoke side. In return this changes the path of the aimstring and moves it to the left slightly, while leaving the rest in its desired location. Again getting the rest to line up so tip weight, rest and aimstring are on the same path.

This does not change in tuning even when you have some saying if one way doesn’t work move it the other way. Sorry, that is just wrong advise.

When tuning always think about the path of the aimstring, as your tip weight will always want to follow its path.

Remembering these simple thing will greatly reduce your tuning headaches.

It really is that easy.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
Why would you not just move the rest instead of playing with the yoke cables and shimming cams? I would understand shimming etc if you are experiencing cam lean, but otherwise?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Why would you not just move the rest instead of playing with the yoke cables and shimming cams? I would understand shimming etc if you are experiencing cam lean, but otherwise?
Because you might have the rest at your preferred center shot, and you might want to keep it there. So you adjust the yokes/ shims to get the bare shaft / paper tear correct.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,910 Posts
Why would you not just move the rest instead of playing with the yoke cables and shimming cams? I would understand shimming etc if you are experiencing cam lean, but otherwise?
Because having everything run right down the middle scratches the itch of OCD bow tuners.

Also, Shane has mentioned many times in his threads that it's all about building maximum forgiveness into the tune which I think most tuners feel is best accomplished by getting the bow shooting down the middle of the riser.



Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
Because you might have the rest at your preferred center shot, and you might want to keep it there. So you adjust the yokes/ shims to get the bare shaft / paper tear correct.
Sorry, trying to learn and not being a wise guy, but can you go into more detail? What is the benefit of, and description of "your preferred center shot"? And why is it critical/desireable to "leave it there"?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24,761 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Why would you not just move the rest instead of playing with the yoke cables and shimming cams? I would understand shimming etc if you are experiencing cam lean, but otherwise?
If the rest is to far out of center then your follow through on the shot can be more inconsistent with a bow wanting to veer to the left or right depending on how far centershot is one way or another. Then you have other avenues to keep things in a better balance.

Shimming can be used to keep everything in balance and a centershot more down the center.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
Because having everything run right down the middle scratches the itch of OCD bow tuners.

Also, Shane has mentioned many times in his threads that it's all about building maximum forgiveness into the tune which I think most tuners feel is best accomplished by getting the bow shooting down the middle of the riser.



Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Ok. Thanks for that. That makes sense to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
If the rest is to far out of center then your follow through on the shot can be more inconsistent with a bow wanting to veer to the left or right depending on how far centershot is one way or another. Then you have other avenues to keep things in a better balance.

Shimming can be used to keep everything in balance and a centershot more down the center.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Again, thank you.
Next question, how do you know your bows exact center shot? I have not seen it in any spec sheet. Or is it a rule of thumb thing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,856 Posts
Wouldn't you want to add twist to the right yoke side to fix a left tear?
Left tear, left yoke, right tear, right yoke
Left tear, move rest towards riser
Right tear, move rest away from riser
Shim cams towards the tear
 

·
Socket Man
Joined
·
23,852 Posts
Ontarget7 is 100% correct and this has been a long time coming for us to get to this point in tuning, there were a few people using these methods but for the most part we were stuck as a whole. When I first came to archery talk any tuning thread started out with someone mentioning or posting the easton tuning guide, our tuning as a community consisted of a couple things. Moving the arrow rest to control the arrow flight was the number one method used by every tuning approach and then prelean, prelean was something that was a mystery where guys posted their finding for how much prelean a bow preferred and you set that bow to its prelean and then moved the rest to finish the job. Center shot was similar to prelean, each bow was shot for a while and then guys found a center shot that that bow responded to so asking for that magical center shot number was very popular and then you micro tuned from there.

I can still remember when Baldyhunter released his bowtech350 tuning thread, for me it was where something in my head finally saw what yoke tuning had to offer but even then I didn't understand why it worked or what we were actually doing. I just knew that when I twisted a yoke I could control the arrow flight.

I call it "Moving the Powerstroke" where ontarget7 calls it "Aimstring", it really is a fundamental that every tuner must understand so that when you are attacking your arrow flight. Anytime you limit your bag of tricks and totally avoid or refuse to us some of them you are totally limiting yourself, it is much better to not put everything into one approach. The tricks to tuning compliment each other and overusing one of them will result in weird end results where excessive cam lean or a arrow rest that is way off center is something you either choose to live with or learn how to use the other tricks out there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Sorry, trying to learn and not being a wise guy, but can you go into more detail? What is the benefit of, and description of "your preferred center shot"? And why is it critical/desireable to "leave it there"?
Most have all ready stated this,
but some times the center shot will have to be slightly out side of parallel with the bows riser, for what ever reason, so you use the yokes or shims to decrease the distance that the rest is out side center shot.
And since ,as Shane has already said, if you want the bow to be forgiving the arrow had to be as close to parallel with the riser as possible in which case you would want to “leave it there”.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Again, thank you.
Next question, how do you know your bows exact center shot? I have not seen it in any spec sheet. Or is it a rule of thumb thing?
The rule of thumb you could say is parallel with the riser. But yours bows manufacturer should have specs listed in tuning charts for center shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,725 Posts
As always great info shane! Love tuning threads from guys that live/work in bow industry. And padgett has great info to.

Thanks guys
 

·
My Elk Hunting Home
Joined
·
32,336 Posts
This does not change in tuning even when you have some saying if one way doesn’t work move it the other way. Sorry, that is just wrong advise.
If someone doesn't remember all this left and right stuff and they choose a right instead of a left to fix something and it only gets worse.......then wouldn't moving it the other way be the CORRECT answer?:wink:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,852 Posts
This can be misunderstood by new archers. Not saying always the case , but arrow spine has to be considered. You see it all the time. Guys saying they've tried moving this and that and still can't get a clean paper tear. When it can be as simple as leaning out or stiffining the spine of the arrow to begin with.
 

·
Socket Man
Joined
·
23,852 Posts
Arrow spine is one of the things in your "Bag of Tricks", if you choose your arrow spine and arrow length and point weight well then your tuning will go much smoother than if you chose some stupid arrow setup. Just picking a spine is not enough, it is the complete arrow setup.
 
1 - 20 of 196 Posts
Top