String and peep question.
New archer here looking for help with trying to work on my own bow.
so a while ago I purchased some gas ghost strings for myv3x29. And the peep hasn’t been shifting on me but it seems with my hamskea raptor peep is extremely sensitive to any slight rotation. My Friend has added/removed a couple twists when I had to adjust peep height from switching releases/draw length one time. Is there a way to check my string is “in spec” with its proper amount of twists it should be installed at?
so a while ago I purchased some gas ghost strings for myv3x29. And the peep hasn’t been shifting on me but it seems with my hamskea raptor peep is extremely sensitive to any slight rotation. My Friend has added/removed a couple twists when I had to adjust peep height from switching releases/draw length one time. Is there a way to check my string is “in spec” with its proper amount of twists it should be installed at?
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Strings are measured using 100 pounds of tension on 1/4” posts. If you have the means to do that, you can verify the string matches the factory length.
With that said, if the bow is shooting well, there is no reason to go to that trouble.
If the bow axle to axle and brace height measure correct then it should not be something to be concerned with. I never concern myself with much if everything measures correctly and lines up. A lot of strings that are unstable you can chase your tail trying to find the perfect twist to keep them straight, because the string is not stable but wants to twist to easily as the load changes among other things. Changing how the peep is tied in, not forcing a specific size V on both sides, maybe just tying in the peep without binding the string anymore then it is from the servings, bigger V on top then bottom, etc. Its sort of like the old sailors use to say about ships, treat her like a lady, find what she likes and go with it, don't always try to force things a certain way. Binding the string bundle changes the dynamics of a string that is unstable.
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Are you talking it is off at full draw or at rest? If it isn't square at rest that is NOT a problem. The only time it matters is full draw. The twist in the string isn't a real problem. It is how it is tied in or you need to put a 1/2 twist or more to get it to come around. If it is off by just less than a half turn then line the loop up ith the peep.
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4,160 Posts
Bow specs are baseline, some ATA may be off by 1/4 and shoot optimum. In a perfect world ya the spec would be nice. But most come from the factory out of spec by sml amounts. You could bring it into spec and it shoot horrible, not something I really think to much on! There are reasonable amounts either way (shorter/longer) that are acceptable.
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If specs all fall “close” and it shoots good, then it’s good. In my experience, most times, if the cams are timed, and DL is where it should be (actual measured draw length), peak DW is within a few lbs of what it is supposed to be, then everything else should be close to “spec”.
OP does your peep rotate between brace and full draw? Or is it just not square at brace, and off the same amount at full draw? If it’s off the same amount at both, then a half twist, or rotating your d-loop to line up with the peep at brace height should fix it.
If it is rotating between brace and full draw you will be constantly chasing your tail trying to fix an unstable string. Putting a reasonable amount of twists into a string usually won’t cause problems, taking more than a twist or two out CAN cause issues and lead to a very unstable string.
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