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String Selection for OLD Recurve Bows....?

13K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  jusoldave  
#1 ·
My brother and I just got into archery a couple months ago and I've been reading a couple books on it but they don't go especially in depth with string selection for older bows. We ordered some old ones off eBay instead of paying our local archery shops $280 price tag (we are in our 20s and can't really afford that each). As far as I understand I know I would want a dacron string, and out of the box it'll be four inches shorter since its without the tension, the information out there is confusing though because another site said to measure from groove to groove with tension and that is the desired string length after AMO? I don't know, either way my brothers is an old ben pearson 703-62" puma with 50#, mine is an old wing gull 64" with 44#... from groove to groove mine (wing) measures (not following curves/with slight tension) a little over 61" while his (ben pearson) measures exactly 60" -- I would go to our archery store but people told me they would charge for that information, and I would like to really understand and know what to measure and why anyway.



 
#2 ·
If your buying "stock" strings that come pre packaged you need to buy strings that have the AMO 62" label for the Puma and a AMO 64" for the Gull. If your buying custom the 4" shorter than AMO will be about right. The 4" rule will give you a string that will work but many recurve shooters like to play with different string lengths to tweak the most performance out of the bow that they can. Do NOT put fast flight or any other modern material string on those bows, use only Dacron or B-50.
Hope this helps.
 
#3 ·
First Welcome To Archery Talk!

Again I echo use only Dacron be it B-50 or one of the new Dacrons but make sure it is DACRON. Now if it were me I would order a Flemish string that's 3 3/4" shorter than the amo length of each respected bow and twist the strings to find the desired length. The way I do this realty takes a 2nd person. I start out with no silencers on the bow and a low brace height. Then I shoot an arrow with someone having their back turned to me the I twist the string three time and repeat the process. The bow will slowly get quieter and then I will start to get loud again. Then I play with it one twist a a time to fine tune it. Where the bow is the most quiet is where it is transferring the most energy and you've found the sweet spot. Once you've done that record your brace height and the actual length of the twisted string. Over time the string especially Dacron will continue to stretch and you'll have to add a few twist. For what it's worth it's my opinion that a tightly twisted string is a more stable string.

One thing you might note is that playing with the string length and brace height will affect the way you bow shoots a given arrow spine, but again this is tunable with point weight.
 
#6 ·
Just have to be careful saying tightly twisted. That leaves a lot to the imagination. That's all I am saying. Your instructions are great.
 
#7 ·
With a recurve, brace height (and therefore string length) is critical to how the arrow flies. Finding the perfect height at brace will keep you arrow from "fishtailing", or side to side wobbling in flight. Too much or too little will cause fishtailing. Each change in spine or point weight will need to be tuned by string twist.

Vertical wobbling, or poroising, is tuned out by adjusting the nocking point.

Best of luck to you.