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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Because I'm a constant tinkerer and never will leave well enough alone, I was playing with the stock string stop on my Revolt X. I know its pretty safe to say that everyone thinks the stock stop is pretty much an afterthought by bowtech. It doesn't do a very good job of killing the string vibe. I have found the rubber way too soft and the hollow carbon tube is just a dumb idea in general.

Anyway. I first took mine off and filled tube with ear plugs to fill the void. This seemed to have a tiny bit of a positive affect on noise. Not vibration at all. I then slapped a Bowjax dampener on the rod. Not much difference. Vibration on this bow wasn't bad to begin with but the noise is what I was more concerned with. I was getting a decent amount of string buzz post shot. I was looking around in my boxes of various old bow parts and such and found a handful of LimbSaver string leaches and some monkey tails. The string stop has a hole in the end, where you put an allen wrench to adjust the stop when you have to rotate the rubber. That hole, combined with the soft rubber Bowtech uses, I believe is a core of a lot of issues with this stop. Sooooo... I took a string leach, trimmed it a bit, then jammed it into that hole to fill it. I had to use an allen wrench to really jam it tight in there.

Took the bow outside and shot... Wowza.. what a difference. Zero noise, zero vibration. Just that tiny thing made an enormous difference on this bow. You can still take a pair of foreceps or need nose pliars and pull out the rubber plug and adjust if needed.

I also through the monkey tails on for good meaure afterwards and it maybe made a tiny bit of difference as well. Just thought i'd pass this along. I have a Bow Rattler stop in route at the moment and will most likely use it instead of the stock one, but this seems to work awesome for now.
 

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Interesting. Having a hard time visualizing where you stuffed the string leech.

I just put a Hitek stop on my SR6. Not a big difference over factory, but a much nicer high quality product. The Hitek made a huge difference on the Prime Black 1 I had.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Interesting. Having a hard time visualizing where you stuffed the string leech.

I just put a Hitek stop on my SR6. Not a big difference over factory, but a much nicer high quality product. The Hitek made a huge difference on the Prime Black 1 I had.
Sorry if I wasn't clear. The rubber stopper on the stock one has a hole in it, where the string hits it. That hole, inside has a bolt for rotating the rubber stopper so the string lines up with the groove in the stop (in case you have to move the string stop left or right a hair becuase you moved the string with the deadlock or yokes on the older bow). I just stuffed that tight with the leech, but it can be removed if you need to get to that bolt for adjustment.

I can't wait to get my bow rattler. I used one on my previous Prime bow and it was night and day on that bow. The issue with the Bowtech stop is that the rubber, IMO, is too soft. It produces a "snap" type sound when the string hits it, instead of a dull thud, which I prefer.
 

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I replaced every bowtech factory string stop with a Bow rattler. Bowtech should sign a deal with them and make these factory stops
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I replaced every bowtech factory string stop with a Bow rattler. Bowtech should sign a deal with them and make these factory stops
I'm with ya bud. I don't understand why they keep putting the same stop on these bows. Its funny. When I got my Revolt X, I was digging around in a box I had that was full of old parts and odds and ends. I found a string stop from what I think was my Experience I used to own. SAME EXACT STOP from 2014 is still on them today.

They don't even need to do anything as fancy as the Bow Rattlers... Heck just use solid aluminum with a bowjax rubber stopper and it would be good as gold on these things. haha. Probably much cheaper to make too.
 

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It's hard to believe that a straight Bow Rattler would line up with the string (they don't have offset right?).

I tried a hitek and on the long brace height Revolt, it hit the cable significantly when the string was centered on the stop.

The owner is supposed to be bending me up a custom one based upon pics I sent, but I haven't heard anything in weeks.
 

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I ordered my Hitek for my SR6 and got it within a week. Fits perfect. No cable clearance issues.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's hard to believe that a straight Bow Rattler would line up with the string (they don't have offset right?).

I tried a hitek and on the long brace height Revolt, it hit the cable significantly when the string was centered on the stop.

The owner is supposed to be bending me up a custom one based upon pics I sent, but I haven't heard anything in weeks.
On my Prime, I had to take the Bow Rattler and but the pin part, the part that goes into the riser, into a vice and tweak it a little bit to get it to hit the center of the stop. It wasn't hard and it only took a very tiny bit to get it right.

As for clearance. not sure. I can't see how a straight one would be an issue unless you have the cams shoved all the way to the left and the flex guard adjusted out as far as it can be. Guess I'll find out if this thing ever gets here. haha.
 

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I ordered my Hitek for my SR6 and got it within a week. Fits perfect. No cable clearance issues.
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i have clearance when at brace also, when at full draw, the cables move enough that the closest one is laying against the rod

things aren't weird on my set up at all, rest is at 13/16", deadlock has the string right down the center of that rest position, flex guard is at factory position and i have plenty of vane clearance

the revolt has 1.25 more inches of brace height than your sr6, which is long for a modern bow, so the cables are also 1.25" back and intersect with the bend in the rod when at full draw

it is just enough of a cable touch that a single shot lifted a thread within a single bow string strand, which isn't going to work for me

the bowtech system of offsetting the rubber damper at the last possible moment works fine, but the string damper is overall lower quality, i'd like it if someone made one the same shape as the bowtech but higher quality
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i have clearance when at brace also, when at full draw, the cables move enough that the closest one is laying against the rod

things aren't weird on my set up at all, rest is at 13/16", deadlock has the string right down the center of that rest position, flex guard is at factory position and i have plenty of vane clearance

the revolt has 1.25 more inches of brace height than your sr6, which is long for a modern bow, so the cables are also 1.25" back and intersect with the bend in the rod when at full draw

it is just enough of a cable touch that a single shot lifted a thread within a single bow string strand, which isn't going to work for me

the bowtech system of offsetting the rubber damper at the last possible moment works fine, but the string damper is overall lower quality, i'd like it if someone made one the same shape as the bowtech but higher quality

I think i understand what you're saying. The bowtech stop offsets way out at the end where as Hi-Teks bend more at the middle of the rod. I know its tight there..

Out of curiosity, when you tuned, did you have to move your cams left or right? I could see if you have to move them to the left, you'd force everything over putting the cables closer to the string stop.

I wish someone would just make a string stop rod out of aluminum with a stopper system like the stock Bowtech. The only one that I think would work is a stock Mathews stop.. I think it slides back and forth at the end.
 

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I think i understand what you're saying. The bowtech stop offsets way out at the end where as Hi-Teks bend more at the middle of the rod. I know its tight there..

Out of curiosity, when you tuned, did you have to move your cams left or right? I could see if you have to move them to the left, you'd force everything over putting the cables closer to the string stop.

I wish someone would just make a string stop rod out of aluminum with a stopper system like the stock Bowtech. The only one that I think would work is a stock Mathews stop.. I think it slides back and forth at the end.
i had to move my cams a very small amount, but i can't remember the direction, you could hardly see the movement visually looking at the cam axles

i put lipstick on the stop rod and drew the bow to show the point of interference (put a mark in the lipstick there) and sent a pic of that with a ruler next to it to hitek's owner, hopefully he'll bend me up something when he has time, i'd be willing to pay twice (i didn't return my used stop) to have a custom one that works because the quality is great

with the stock rod, i stopped using the riser set screw that came with it and went to a hex cap bolt with exposed, larger head, so you can crank it down more without worrying about stripping it, i had to put a serious indent in the stopper rod with the end of that set bolt to keep the stop rod from continually sliding into the bow

the slick, hollow carbon rod idea is dumb and i can't believe a company like bowtech is still using it, if they cut jimping into the carbon rod to give the set screw somewhere to gain purchase then it would work better
 

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I haven’t been impressed with the stock Revolt X string stop either. The only time I have a sound or vibration issue is when the set screw gets loses and the stop has moved so the string is slapping the rubber stopper and the rod is vibrating around. I have tightened it several times pretty hard so that now there’s an indention in the rod. At this point I’m afraid if I tighten it any more I’m going to crack the hollow rod. They really should make a solid rod and use a different rubber.


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I haven’t been impressed with the stock Revolt X string stop either. The only time I have a sound or vibration issue is when the set screw gets loses and the stop has moved so the string is slapping the rubber stopper and the rod is vibrating around. I have tightened it several times pretty hard so that now there’s an indention in the rod. At this point I’m afraid if I tighten it any more I’m going to crack the hollow rod. They really should make a solid rod and use a different rubber.


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i almost epoxied in piece of stainless rod of the proper diameter into the end to help it not totally crush/crack, but decided not to add complexity/something to break free and start rattling inside the rod

if you take your set screw to a hardware store, you an get one that hangs out of the bow with a cap end, it doesn't look as slick though

it will have a larger hex end so you can tighten more without worrying about stripping it, and if you ever strip it you can grab the cap end with pliers and loosen it, i think it is a big improvement
 

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i almost epoxied in piece of stainless rod of the proper diameter into the end to help it not totally crush/crack, but decided not to add complexity/something to break free and start rattling inside the rod

if you take your set screw to a hardware store, you an get one that hangs out of the bow with a cap end, it doesn't look as slick though

it will have a larger hex end so you can tighten more without worrying about stripping it, and if you ever strip it you can grab the cap end with pliers and loosen it, i think it is a big improvement
That’s a good idea. I might just see if I can find one.

I actually thought about filling the tube with hot glue or caulk so it wasn’t completely hollow and to give it a little more rigidity. It might help with some vibration absorption as well.


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Because I'm a constant tinkerer and never will leave well enough alone, I was playing with the stock string stop on my Revolt X. I know its pretty safe to say that everyone thinks the stock stop is pretty much an afterthought by bowtech. It doesn't do a very good job of killing the string vibe. I have found the rubber way too soft and the hollow carbon tube is just a dumb idea in general.

Anyway. I first took mine off and filled tube with ear plugs to fill the void. This seemed to have a tiny bit of a positive affect on noise. Not vibration at all. I then slapped a Bowjax dampener on the rod. Not much difference. Vibration on this bow wasn't bad to begin with but the noise is what I was more concerned with. I was getting a decent amount of string buzz post shot. I was looking around in my boxes of various old bow parts and such and found a handful of LimbSaver string leaches and some monkey tails. The string stop has a hole in the end, where you put an allen wrench to adjust the stop when you have to rotate the rubber. That hole, combined with the soft rubber Bowtech uses, I believe is a core of a lot of issues with this stop. Sooooo... I took a string leach, trimmed it a bit, then jammed it into that hole to fill it. I had to use an allen wrench to really jam it tight in there.

Took the bow outside and shot... Wowza.. what a difference. Zero noise, zero vibration. Just that tiny thing made an enormous difference on this bow. You can still take a pair of foreceps or need nose pliars and pull out the rubber plug and adjust if needed.

I also through the monkey tails on for good meaure afterwards and it maybe made a tiny bit of difference as well. Just thought i'd pass this along. I have a Bow Rattler stop in route at the moment and will most likely use it instead of the stock one, but this seems to work awesome for now.
I have a rubber speed nock replacement that fits in the damper hole perfectly.

Do you think it is best to have the inserted rubber piece touching the string? I cut one in half and I can tell it will get pushed in over time from the string and no longer touch the string.

I'll shoot it in the morning to see the change.
 

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I have a rubber speed nock replacement that fits in the damper hole perfectly.

Do you think it is best to have the inserted rubber piece touching the string? I cut one in half and I can tell it will get pushed in over time from the string and no longer touch the string.

I'll shoot it in the morning to see the change.
Do you usually not have your string touching the stop? Just curious. I was always told to set the stop where it just barely touches the string but doesn’t actually apply pressure to the string.


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Do you usually not have your string touching the stop? Just curious. I was always told to set the stop where it just barely touches the string but doesn’t actually apply pressure to the string.


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i do the same, dampener just touching string, but i was asking op about if it matters where the piece he inserted inside his dampener ends up

i have a rubber speed nock replacement (like a bowjax speed sleeve, but different brand) that slides inside the stock bowtech dampener, if i keep the stock dampener barely touching the string, i was wondering if i should have my piece of speed nock should be out where it will touch the string or if he thinks it will be okay jammed in there farther
 

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Anyone have any pics of aftermarket stops on a Solution? I’m not sure how a Bowrattler would work with the cables but if it’s possible I’d probably go that route.


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