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String wear - need some knowledge

2.2K views 21 replies 12 participants last post by  MacDragon  
#1 ·
Hi all,
I picked up an 60" SAS maverick recurve a month ago, and am having lots of fun. Based on some feedback I got on another post, I got a better string from 3Rivers. The improvement was immediately noticeable, so I'm glad I got that advice. However, I have about 1,000 shots on the string and I'm noticing fraying on the ends (see the pics). I'm new to this, so I don't know if this is normal wear, and if so, how often should you change strings.
If it is not normal wear, what does this mean, or how to resolve?
Let me know your thoughts,
Thanks,
J
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#2 ·
Normal part of a flemish twist bowstring. As you "shoot" in a new string the tag ends will work themselves loose and pop out the bundle. With my strings I prestrech at 350# and then cut my tag ends to help prevent this.

If you want to cut them I suggest using toenail clippers, it makes a safer way to cut tag ends.

Or

Leave them and wax them down
 
#5 ·
Normal for a Flemish Twist string. Lay them down with wax if it irritates you. If it really irritates you then switch to an endless loop style string. With that style of string your string loops and ends of the string are served. I have and shoot both styles. Most important is to make sure your bow string material is compatible with your bow. Low stretch string material commonly referred to as fast flight needs to be shot on a bow with reinforced limb tips. Older bows require a Dacron string as the limb tips are not reinforced. I have no idea about your bow.
 
#8 ·
Ok, thanks jtrops for mentioning that. As i'm new to this, I haven't much looked into this before, but it has come up as a question from another member so I think my brace height is not correct.
I have a 60" recurve. I bought a 60" AMO string from 3rivers, which comes out to 56 or 57". Installed without any adjustments, my brace height is 5 1/8". Online i've seen that a 60" bow should be somewhere around 7 7/38 or so.
When I twisted the string, maybe 15 times, I'm at 6". Am I doing something wrong?
Is the 60" AMO string the wrong size for my bow? or should I just twist the crap out of it. Newbie here -
thanks,
J
 
#14 ·
I got into a heated discussion with another archery coach about brace heights. She was recommending 7 -7.5 inch brace while I had 9 1/2 on my bow. Proof is in the pudding I say, I was outscoring her by 10 points each time we shot together.

Shoot what makes your bow feel the best. No two bows are different.

Go back to 3Rivers and buy a Flemish String Jig. There are a lot of videos on YouTube showing how to make a string. They look better, are more correct for Traditional. They really are easy to make and you can change lengths, number of stands etc. at a whim.
I have a bow that due to the older design needs a 4.5 inch brace height, this old 60 inch fiberglass duel sided Amrican Style Longbow and turns out this model that has 28 or 29, 36, 38, 40 and 44/45 pound draw bows that all seem to have a 25--26 inch draw that the 35--36 pound bow is the most common model in good enough shape to use. Then my Recurve, this OEELINE AEROBOW that is the One Piece 58 inch Recurve, they ask for a 7.5--8 inch brace height but I find a 6.75--7 inch best for not hitting my arm guard every time I shoot, hence why I also have a 3 inch brace height instead of the 4 inch to make it easier to get the brace height I need. My other bow is the Youth Longbow in the hickory option at 45 pounds with 24 inch draw for my needs from GREAT PLAINS TRADITIONAL BOW COMAPNY.
 
#9 ·
From your pics, that string can be twisted much more, one twist per inch is average, and 7 1/2 - 8” brace height is more typical and will make it feel like a different bow. Is there a manufacturer recommended brace? While I’m sure that the Three Rivers string is an improvement, they are far from the best. A well - made Flemish twist will have the strands staggered in the splice with a nice smooth transition into the body of the string and no noticeable fuzzies.
Look up Champion Bowstrings, 10-Ring Strings, or Stilldub ( Barry Hughs) - he’s on eBay. That’s off the top of my head, there’s others. For example, here’s the splice of one of my own made strings, 2 years old at least and thousands of shots.
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#11 ·
Ok, so I did many twists on the string I have and set the brace height to 7 3/8". It def feels like a different bow.
Here's the thing - It feels much harder to hit the target - I'm all around it. Feels more rigid.
I thought setting the brace height higher makes the shot more forgiving... Any thoughts?

J
 
#13 ·
I got into a heated discussion with another archery coach about brace heights. She was recommending 7 -7.5 inch brace while I had 9 1/2 on my bow. Proof is in the pudding I say, I was outscoring her by 10 points each time we shot together.

Shoot what makes your bow feel the best. No two bows are different.

Go back to 3Rivers and buy a Flemish String Jig. There are a lot of videos on YouTube showing how to make a string. They look better, are more correct for Traditional. They really are easy to make and you can change lengths, number of stands etc. at a whim.
 
#16 ·
I’m not sure where you got the idea that a higher brace height makes the bow more “forgiving”, you’re now in a normal/typical range for a 60” recurve and the shot should be crisper with less vibration and less chance of smacking your arm. Also, what spine arrows are you shooting and what is your actual draw length? And wax that string.
 
#18 ·
Don’t take this the wrong way, I don’t know what your experience is, but you can only tune as well as you can shoot. If you can group consistently out to twenty yds. Bare shaft tuning will get you there the quickest IMO. I’m thinking that since you’re probably at 43-44# at your draw length, those .500s might be borderline stiff depending on shaft length and point weight.