Archery Talk Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
318 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Waiting on my halon 6 to come in and also going to buy a press and drawboard..... I want to fine to my bow to its max performance. I see all the different tuning methods and have used a few myself.

My question is, when buying a new bow and doing a "supertune" to achieve maximum performance what do YOU do as far as order of operations?

Guess im asking somebody to post a step by step tutorial.... Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
I have wondered the same thing, a nice and orderly start here then go here type of thing would really help, my local pro shop has already proven clueless.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,973 Posts
Since no one else has posted I will tell you how I tune my bows to me. I make no claim to being and expert. First I select an arrow of correct spine with the point weight, fletching and nock you intend to use. I use OT2. It is also worth some time to fine tune your DL and D-loop length. Next I paper tune at 6 ft with a bare shaft. Perfect bullet hole is required here before going to the next step. Adjust center shot, nock height as required. If you can't get a bullet hole here you have form issues that need to be worked out or your arrow spine is off. I will then shoot a fletched arrow through paper to see if I have any interference issues. I will then walk back tune with a field point and fletched arrow. I will check this with a bare shaft at 20 yrds just to see what I get. Form can be so critical with a bare shaft I usually won't make adjustments just on BS results. I then go to broad heads at 20 yrds. Usually I don't need to make further adjustments. If my BH and FP are not within an inch I compare the offset to my bare shaft results. If the offset direction is the same I will play with arrow spine by changing tip weight, arrow length and/or static spine. Recheck your walk back tune with each spine change. If the offset is not in the same direction I make rest adjustments. If none of this works I go back to the walk back tune rest settings and try a different BH. Once I get BH and FP together at 20 yrd I start moving back. 40 yrds is as far as I go. This can take a couple of days to complete depending on how much time you have each day. Also need to keep a check on fatigue/form as this can get you chasing your tail. As I said, I am no expert. Just like to shoot arrows.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Shot thru's methods sound similar to mine. Just be aware that if bare shafts are not hating the target straight most likely you are torquing the bow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,955 Posts
paper tune and bare shaft but first thing I do when setting a bow up is center the arrow in the center of riser by looking down from the top of the bow point arrow straight ahead then fire through paper I also set nocking point at 90 on binary or 2 cam bows solos a little high. after paper tune is good fire a bare shaft and see what happens

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
399 Posts
On the halons I've seen more than one that will have to have to the bushings swapped on the cams before it will bare shaft tune or shoot a fixed blade broadhead. Do a search on here and you find that it is true and how to do it. Mine had to have it. I almost sold it because it would not tune with any spine or weight tip. Swapped bushings and bullet holes. Bare shafts shoot perfect to 20 yards and fixed blades shoot with field points to 60. I'm happy now.

Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
Do a ADV search on here and find OnTarget7 ( Shane ). He did a total tune job with the halon 6.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top