[slinger]

Well, I've decided to jump in feet-first and give this Traditional thing a try.

I've been shooting compounds for about 10 years, but I've always wanted to give barebow recurves a try.
My drawlength on my compounds is 31"...I assume it'll be a little shorter with a 'curve?

I just ordered a Quinn Stallion 45# @28" (62" AMO).
I plan on shooting instinctively, off the shelf.

I'll probably start-out with aluminum arrows w/5" feathers.

Can anyone point me to a website or book/DVD that has basic (step-by-step) setup, tuning, and arrow selection instructions?

Thanks for your help!!
slinger

 

[vermonster13]

TJ Conrad's Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook. Also check out http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm for all your tuning needs.

 

[slinger]

Thanks for the reply.

Another question:
Is TAP reliable for arrow selection for a recurve?
I've had great success with it for compounds.

Thanks,
slinger

 

[vermonster13]

I pretty much go by OL's charts. They are pretty darn accurate. Compounds and trad bows seem to have some significant differences in spine like/dislikes.

 

[slinger]

Thanks again....sure is a lot of great information on OL's site!

slinger

 

[vermonster13]

The man knows his stuff. About 80% of the questions asked here can be answered there.

 

[Feral Donkey]

That Stallion is going to want stiffer arrows than the average recurve is. I shoot Beman ICS Hunter 500s out of my 45# Stallion. But I also have a 29" draw.

Just remember all the stuff you learned from shooting the compound before getting all fancy with Fedoras, crested shafts, and romantic BS. Do that later. Shoot the new bow like you would the compound. Form, grip, anchor, then sight picture. It's almost the same thing, just no let-off and stops. You get that down, then decide if you want to go more primitive, more technical, more fedora, Just shoot it the way it is, etc.... There's nothing wrong with using a small sight either. I do. I also use a wrist sling. I can't shoot a bow worth a crap without a sling for some strange reason.

Use 3-4" feathers. That's plenty enough feather even with helical fletching. 5" hides mistakes and problems with the way things are done. Sometimes we want that. Most of the time we don't. I used to shoot 3-5.5" Shield cut barred feathers on a 475 grain arrow. Some people like that. I got sick of seeing my arrow sink like a stone when I shot past about 18 yards. I shoot an 8.5gpp arrow now. Bow is quiet and shoots a lot flatter. Guessing yardage is easier. Hit's like a ton of bricks. It's all in the tuneing, getting the most bang for the buck pulling the string.

 

[slinger]

Thanks for all the replies.
I'm trying to get some ideas on arrows, but it seems like every chart I find points to a different size.
I am gonna shoot aluminums though.
I don't know what arrow length I'll need yet either...guess I'll have to wait 4 to 6 weeks until the bow arrives.
I'm like a kid counting the days until Christmas, lol.

Thanks again,
slinger

 

[don s]

with a 45#@28 i'd go with 1916s with 125gr. heads. my 45#@28 kodiak magnum does well with that combo.
don

 

[Feral Donkey]

Don't buy any arrows yet. That's where tomato stakes come from. I've made plenty that way. Borrow some arrows of different spines and weight and try them out. Every bow is different. Everyone's release and draw length is a little different. Have your arrows cut longer than you think you need. My draw length grew by an inch over the last year as my shooting improved.

Before you go do the rug rest thing, slap on the plastic rest that comes free with the bow. Then set your nocking point about 3/8 high of square if you're shooting split finger. Then see what arrow works best for you. Get that all sorted out before going to a shelf rest. I just bought used bow with a seal skin rest. I shot it like that for a while. It's ok. I just peeled it off yesterday when I gave it a camo paint job and I replaced it with a plastic stick on elevated rest with a compact cushion plunger. That's what works for me. You need to figure your own way. You'll get it. Just stick with that plastic free-bee until you get your bearings. It's a good "one size fits all" way to start out in the sport.

The nice thing about the internet is you can find a lot of people willing to help you. Look for the people who aren't trying to sell you anything, who genuinly want to help you. The bad thing about the internet is there are also a lot of [email protected]$$es. You'll figure out who's who.

 

[Farley]

I like 1916's as well. I have a couple 45# bows I shoot them from with 75gr tips and they fly well cut to 29.5". I also shoot Epic 500's with 125gr tips and they come very good as well. As the others have said, try some different arrow/tip combonations and see what works best for YOU.

 

[DwayneR]

Great advice from everyone...

Ditto on buying arrows....

best bet??? Go to a range and try all kinds of arrows. Find the match that fits the best, *then* go purchase arrows.

DWayne

 

[Sanvean]

Great advice from everyone...

Ditto on buying arrows....

best bet??? Go to a range and try all kinds of arrows. Find the match that fits the best, *then* go purchase arrows.

DWayne

That is the way you should go, nothing better out there!

On books: Especially for the recurve, give Fred Asbell a try.

 

[slinger]

Thanks for everyone's replies!!

I won't buy arrows until I get the bow.
I ordered a couple of books, so I'll have plenty of reading material before the bow arrives.

thanks again,
slinger

 

[Sanvean]

So then, I wish you good luck with your new bow (when it arrives) and a good arrowflight!
Greets
Martin

 

[Viper1]

slinger -

I'll play devils advocate here (like that's a surprise). While trying out as many arrows as possible is certainly a good idea, it's not the only approach - and not one that I'd use, simply because a poorly tuned or untuned bow can easily like the worst possible arrow you try.

With a new bow, I just take the std aluminum (I only use aluminum, so YMMV if you want to play with wood or carbon) arrow for that weight and tune the bow with that. 95+% of the time that'll work just fine. If not, it'll be close enough to work with and as I get used to the bow and refine the tuning, it will tell me if it's going to like stiffer/softer or lighter/heavier.

Your first set of arrow for a new bow will always be a guess. For a new shooter more so. As you develop, things wil lstart to change, usually draw length is first, then you might start playing with different anchors, rests, whatever. Bottom line, what works well now, may not be so great in 3 or 6 months.

Just a little food for thought.

Viper1 out.

 

[Feral Donkey]

Exactly right, Viper.

What I'm saying is, when he takes the bow out of the box, sticks on the cheap, plastic elevated rest, and has his nock point at about 3/8-1/2" high, at recomended brace height, he's going to be pretty close to being in tune. Tuned better than most trad people's bows are, that is. From there, he's somewhere in the middle of the tolerance and when he finds an arrow that works well, which many will because of the bow he's using, he can tune his bow more to that. Then he can absorb some change in his shooting without having to buy more stuff. I'm just trying to give his some basic point of origin to work from.

I just don't want to see anyone struggle like I did.

 

[slinger]

Thanks so much for your suggestions!!
You guys all make alot of sense.

I do have several different arrow sizes and types that I've collected over the years. Carbon and aluminum.
I may get lucky and have the right arrow combo sitting in the closet, lol.

I'm no stranger to building arrows and setting up bows (compounds).
Also, I shot fingers for a couple years when I first started bowhunting, so that part won't be completely new to me.

Thanks for everyone's help!
I'm sure I'll have plenty of other questions for ya.


slinger

 

[Feral Donkey]

Wait until the bow comes before buying a stringer. Those Quinn limb tips are pretty big and some stringers won't fit.

 

[slinger]

Wait until the bow comes before buying a stringer. Those Quinn limb tips are pretty big and some stringers won't fit.

OOPS!
I ordered one yesterday with some books and other stuff.
At least they're only about $10.