I think there are a couple of things at play with a lizard tongue.
1. Simplicity - a lack of moving parts makes them less prone to mechanical breakdown. A blade is easily replaceable and only takes a minute.
2. Ease of tuning - I find them very easy to tune to get good arrow flight.
3. Forgiving nature - With a properly matched stiffness these rests are extremely forgiving in nature to fletching contact. For example I had read about a pro who said you could run an arrow thrugh cock vane up (i.e. minimal contact) and another one cock vane down (i.e. full contact) with minimal impact point change. I thought there was no way in heck this could be so. Well I tried it and at 50 yards there was only a difference of about 3-4" inches between the two. Sold me

Here's an article that details the pro's and con's if these rests well: http://www.dudleyarchery.info/articles/GL118article.pdf

With a lizard tongue make sure you have a bit of downward pressure on the arrow when drawing back. This can be accomplished a couple of ways and the following article details how this can be accomplished well: http://www.dudleyarchery.info/articles/biissue34.pdf

 

just like baby baluga said





I will add its ver important to have adjustment in all directions (UP,Down,Left,Right). The Spot hogg Infinity is IMO one of the best rests on the market you can use prongs (TM style) you can use that same launcher bar and put a blade on it, or if your so inclined it can be converted to a drop away buy turning the dial clockwise. It can be a limb driven rest too the possiblities are realy endless.

After looking at the New Fuse acculaunch and a discussion with a close friend it sounds like its able to do just as much

Whaty rest are you currently shooting

Brian

 

One More Thing.

W, I used those launchers for many years. And they work great for all the above reasons. One thing I don't like about them is after useing them for awhile, the launcher starts to wear they get very sharp. I have cut the crap
out of myself more than once. For that reason I have swiched to a fallaway type rest.

 

A blade works better for spots and 3d than anything Ive ever used. I'd hunt w/ one if it had slightly better capture! Like the aforementioned posts, simplicity, ease of tuning, and diff. setups are all readily handled.

 

So, no Bodoodle comments?

Just wondering - why wouldn't a target archer choose the Bodoodle Pro Lite rest? It has very few moving parts, which seems to be a commonly expressed advantage of bladed rests. It seems to me that a Bodoodle Pro Lite would be a good solution for my arrow rest problems since it appears to capture the arrow a bit more than a blade can.

Incidentally, is it possible that my string is the culprit for my difficulty in learning how to use my current Pro Tuner rest? As I draw back, the string rotates about 1/3 turn counterclockwise due to the peep sight and the tube attached to it. Makes it tough to keep on the rest because the arrow pops off to the left now.

The string I had was made by a local shop before I found out that I should never go there for target bow work. They set my nock point about 2 inches too low initially and put the peep in backwards at first. So, do I need to re-do my peep sight so that it doesn't have to rotate (don't know if it's possible), or do I replace this almost new string with something from a reputable maker? How do I know if the string was actually made right?

 

As I draw back, the string rotates about 1/3 turn counterclockwise due to the peep sight and the tube attached to it. Makes it tough to keep on the rest because the arrow pops off to the left now.

This sounds like the D loop is pinching the nock and causing your arrow to come off the rest. This is where a tied in nocking point inside the loop works great. Either that or the nocks are too tight on the string, when it rotates the arrow moves with it.

 

When checking out a string, the first thing I look at is the end servings. They should be very tight and consistent - bunching or separations mean shoddy workmanship; the problem is, a lot of the time those kinds of defects won't become apparent until you've put the cables/string on the bow and have taken a few dozen shots. That happened with the handmade string I have on my Pro-Elite. Now I have to add a twist to the cables every 50-100 shots due to serving separation. I think that area is also where companies like Stone Mountain and Winner's Choice have a distinct advantage over hand-made strings.

You should ditch the tube and properly align your peepsight. Also, are you shooting a d-loop? Sometimes problems with the arrow falling off a blade rest can be due to nock pinch. Happened to me on my Ultra Elite.

 

New nock points and d-loop

I just re-set my nock point (it was too high) using the 5 knots above, 10 knots below method with the d-loop above and below the nock tie-offs. I also replaced my blade on my rest. My nock point was, prior to the re-set, about 1/8" too high. Maybe I'll revert to having the d-loop entirely beneath the nock again - that seemed to help.

I dislike the peep with the tubing and I have and have been wanting to try something without, but I'm now concerned that the dubious quality of my string might make that even more frustrating.

Perhaps it's time to go back and complain a little to the shoddy "technician" at the shop that made this string. Maybe then I could get some answers. Incidentally, the serving at the ends is bunching up a bit on one end and separating on the other. The good thing about having a red Martin target bow in my area is that nobody else does and they should have no trouble remembering it!

 

I like the lizard tongue rests just because they're simple to work with. I personally shoot the AAE Pro Blade with a .012" wide blade. That being said, I also have a GKF/Spot Hogg Infinity Drop Away rest that tunes equally as well. With proper setup, any rest can and will work identically.

 

Dang Ju1ce, you must be shooting really skinny arrows if your blade is only .012" wide. :ROFLAMO:

 

I personally shoot a Trophy Taker drop away for everything. It is just a good, easy to tune, great rest I have never had a problem with. I considered going to the lizard tongue myself but I have had such good luck with the drop away that I have had no reason to change. But, there was a guy I used to shoot with that moved to another state and at the range he was shooting at, they evidentally had some video or something showing that occasionally, and very occassionally, there was some fletching contact with the launcher on a drop away. I am thinking that it would be a problem if it was not set up properly, but that is my thoughts. So, I can see with the lizard tongue, where you would eliminate that.

 

IMHO the Spot Hogg is the best rest in the market today.

If I had to choose all over again, I'd try the Trophy Taker or the AEE/Cavalier, both the micro adjustment versions.
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