[PowerLineman83]

I'd appreciate it. My end loops are ok... but they never seem to come out as nice as I would like. Interested in seeing if a different approach would help me step up my game

So video wasn’t going to work out. I hope pictures work for you. This is one method I use…

Start with the string ready to be served. Pull serving tag through the loop and back into the bundle.

Wrap the way you will serve(CW for me) back toward the loop.

Keep wrapping until you get to your desired loop size.

Close your loop by wrapping back the way you came from.

Wrap by hand past your loop serving until you can conch up the jig and spin the jig. This is when you can add more tension to the string jig. Spin your serving jig enough by hand to allow you to get your NW Spinner on, if you use one.

I can’t take credit for this. I’m pretty sure I learned this from Deezlin(Little Jon jigs) back in the day when he was still selling them.

Food for thought for you at any rate. The key with string building, to me, is not overthinking things. Sometimes it really is as simple as it appears!


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[fgignac]

So video wasn’t going to work out. I hope pictures work for you. This is one method I use…

Thank you sir! Pictures are great. I didn't quite understand what you meant by "Pull the tag end of your serving from the loop up the bundle" from your description but the pictures cleared that right up

I have a pair of buss cables to make tonight I'm going to give this a try and see if it works better for me than serving toward the loops

 

[fgignac]

Sometimes it really is as simple as it appears!

Ain't that the truth...

But over thinking is so much fun

 

[PowerLineman83]

Ain't that the truth...

But over thinking is so much fun

yea it is! Serving away from the loop isn’t for everyone. When I started, all of my end servings went towards the loop. Over time, I’ve elected to serve left to right, so none of my ends goes away from the loop. Again, all of this is preference and there are a hundred ways to do it. Do what works for you and gets you the results YOU want!


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[fgignac]

yea it is! Serving away from the loop isn’t for everyone. When I started, all of my end servings went towards the loop. Over time, I’ve elected to serve left to right, so none of my ends goes away from the loop. Again, all of this is preference and there are a hundred ways to do it. Do what works for you and gets you the results YOU want!


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I also serve left to right... But my jig is in the middle of the room so I can walk around to the other side when I need to go toward the other loop. Left to right is relative to what side of the jig I'm on

 

[PowerLineman83]

I also serve left to right... But my jig is in the middle of the room so I can walk around to the other side when I need to go toward the other loop. Left to right is relative to what side of the jig I'm on

yeah, I guess. I should say I go from one end to the other… it’s more about the technique rather than L to R for me.


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[IDABOW]

So I’m twisting clockwise from behind the adjustment head. I serve all but the bottom end serving clockwise following the twist of the string. In my case going to the left up the string. The bottom end serving I’m serving to the right towards the end loop. I’m still serving “clockwise“ with the serving jig In both directions. Hopefully I explained it right.

I‘ll try the loop serving on the next batch.

Got the new set on my alien X this morning. Just through a d loop and limb driver on it in 10 minutes and shot it. My cam sync was only off by a credit card thickness. If they hold, I’m ecstatic! Been busy all day, so I’m going to baseline the bow specs tonight. Then get some arrows through paper, and add the peep. Fingers crossed!

 

[fgignac]

So I’m twisting clockwise from behind the adjustment head. I serve all but the bottom end serving clockwise following the twist of the string. In my case going to the left up the string. The bottom end serving I’m serving to the right towards the end loop. I’m still serving “clockwise“ with the serving jig In both directions. Hopefully I explained it right.

I‘ll try the loop serving on the next batch.

Got the new set on my alien X this morning. Just through a d loop and limb driver on it in 10 minutes and shot it. My cam sync was only off by a credit card thickness. If they hold, I’m ecstatic! Been busy all day, so I’m going to baseline the bow specs tonight. Then get some arrows through paper, and add the peep. Fingers crossed!

It doesn't really matter what end of the string you are serving toward. What it important is that when you are standing behind the serving tool, the tool is spinning clockwise around the string while moving AWAY from you. You can serve in any direction you want, as long as the tool spins clockwise as it is moving AWAY from you.

I like to take about 20 shots before I start tinkering with synch and timing. I feel like it allows the servings to form to the cam tracks and settle properly.

If you were carful with your tension when laying up, gave them a good stretch, and made sure you didn't trap a bunch of twists under your servings you should be golden. I made my first set of strings about a year ago and they are still on my bow (I keep making strings for other people, I don't have time to make any for myself ). After my initial tune I have never had to touch them again. Peep hasn't moved, and timing is still dead on. They are rock solid. I will say that my peep is not straight at brace. It's about 1/8 off and comes back to straight at full draw. But I've been shooting it that way for a year in all kinds of conditions and it has never moved so I'm good with it. I have had that happen with strings from Pro builders as well.

It's a testament to all the people on this thread willing to share their experience that someone like me can make a set of threads that is as good as any I have bought in the past on my first try. I include you in that statement @PowerLineman83. I've read this entire thread and you have contributed to it a lot. Thanks for that

 

[PowerLineman83]

It doesn't really matter what end of the string you are serving toward. What it important is that when you are standing behind the serving tool, the tool is spinning clockwise around the string while moving AWAY from you. You can serve in any direction you want, as long as the tool spins clockwise as it is moving AWAY from you.

I like to take about 20 shots before I start tinkering with synch and timing. I feel like it allows the servings to form to the cam tracks and settle properly.

If you were carful with your tension when laying up, gave them a good stretch, and made sure you didn't trap a bunch of twists under your servings you should be golden. I made my first set of strings about a year ago and they are still on my bow (I keep making strings for other people, I don't have time to make any for myself ). After my initial tune I have never had to touch them again. Peep hasn't moved, and timing is still dead on. They are rock solid. I will say that my peep is not straight at brace. It's about 1/8 off and comes back to straight at full draw. But I've been shooting it that way for a year in all kinds of conditions and it has never moved so I'm good with it. I have had that happen with strings from Pro builders as well.

It's a testament to all the people on this thread willing to share their experience that someone like me can make a set of threads that is as good as any I have bought in the past on my first try. I include you in that statement @PowerLineman83. I've read this entire thread and you have contributed to it a lot. Thanks for that

Thank you kindly! I’m just like all the other guys that have been at this a good long while, we’re just here to help.

Oddly enough, I’m still here to learn! I love to see new ways to do the same old thing!


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[IDABOW]

ATA and brace are in spec. I did find one of the cable end servings coming loose at the loop. The other cable is a little short of serving running through the roller guard. I must have measured that one wrong before I served it. I guess that will give me something to do tomorrow since it’s going to snow a whopping inch. Not enough to get the snowblower out that only has a half hour of use.

Going to run out of .014 halo pretty soon. Any tips for re-spooling with the equivalent Hercules I bought?Need to get it wound tight and consistent. Sorry in advance for the crappy pics.

 

[PowerLineman83]

ATA and brace are in spec. I did find one of the cable end servings coming loose at the loop. The other cable is a little short of serving running through the roller guard. I must have measured that one wrong before I served it. I guess that will give me something to do tomorrow since it’s going to snow a whopping inch. Not enough to get the snowblower out that only has a half hour of use.

Going to run out of .014 halo pretty soon. Any tips for re-spooling with the equivalent Hercules I bought?Need to get it wound tight and consistent. Sorry in advance for the crappy pics. View attachment 7822004
View attachment 7822006
View attachment 7822005

Try a fishing reel re-spooler setup to hold your fishing line. Run a bolt through your jig spool and chuck it into a drill to do the spooling.

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[IDABOW]

Thanks! That’s what I need!

Just watched automan’s video. I did serve in the correct direction. Feel better now.

Next project involves fixed yoke bows. Single cam, and dual cam bows. Again, visual, color 3D learner for lack of better words. I learn by that, and repetition. On a 2 post jig, do just make the cables at half the strands each and then twist/serve them together?

 

[PowerLineman83]

Thanks! That’s what I need!

Just watched automan’s video. I did serve in the correct direction. Feel better now.

Next project involves fixed yoke bows. Single cam, and dual cam bows. Again, visual, color 3D learner for lack of better words. I learn by that, and repetition. On a 2 post jig, do just make the cables at half the strands each and then twist/serve them together?

That’s my favorite way to make buss cables. You’ll get a feel for layup length. It’s longer than just double. Add 1/4” or 3/8”. Do both your loops, then remove and adjust your jig. Put both loops on one end allowing you to do a false tag end serve on the lower loop. If you’re feeling saucey, you can serve for your loop while the cable is doubled out… not sure I recommend that for your first attempt though. 🫣


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[fgignac]

Thanks! That’s what I need!

Just watched automan’s video. I did serve in the correct direction. Feel better now.

Next project involves fixed yoke bows. Single cam, and dual cam bows. Again, visual, color 3D learner for lack of better words. I learn by that, and repetition. On a 2 post jig, do just make the cables at half the strands each and then twist/serve them together?

I also use a fishing line spooler. Just don't over-fill your jog spool or the thread will "spill" over the side while you are serving and you will have a mess on your hands

The way I do buss cables is like Automan26 shows in his string building powerpoint.

• Set jig posts like you would for a control cable
• Layup half the strands
• Do the yoke leg end loop
• Layup second half of strands
• Do the second yoke end loop
• Do the cam end loop.

The second yoke end loop can be a little tricky. When I'm done the first end loop, I put a shaft collar on the post before laying up the second one. This gives me a little space to work. Also, I don't do end servings on the yoke legs. Instead I leave the tag ends extra long, and when I'm done wrapping I tie a series of half hitches down the leg. Again, learned this from Automan

 

[PowerLineman83]

I also use a fishing line spooler. Just don't over-fill your jog spool or the thread will "spill" over the side while you are serving and you will have a mess on your hands

The way I do buss cables is like Automan26 shows in his string building powerpoint.

• Set jig posts like you would for a control cable
• Layup half the strands
• Do the yoke leg end loop
• Layup second half of strands
• Do the second yoke end loop
• Do the cam end loop.

The second yoke end loop can be a little tricky. When I'm done the first end loop, I put a shaft collar on the post before laying up the second one. This gives me a little space to work. Also, I don't do end servings on the yoke legs. Instead I leave the tag ends extra long, and when I'm done wrapping I tie a series of half hitches down the leg. Again, learned this from Automan

Doing them the way Automan detailed, I take the first piece off the jig to lay up the second. Then put the first one back on once I’ve got the second laid up and loop served. “False” tag end serve the bottom loop and twist that baby!


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[fgignac]

Doing them the way Automan detailed, I take the first piece off the jig to lay up the second. Then put the first one back on once I’ve got the second laid up and loop served. “False” tag end serve the bottom loop and twist that baby!


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huh.... don't know why I never thought of doing that

 

[PowerLineman83]

huh.... don't know why I never thought of doing that

Some won’t do it because their worried about keeping everything super neat and tidy. I get that…

BUT, it’s not really that hard to keep things straight and serving the second yoke loop is way easier.

Just be sure to reset your jig to the same layup length. Also, not hard to do.

Building string is more art than science… don’t get sloppy, but it’s more about technique IMHO.


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[fgignac]

Some won’t do it because their worried about keeping everything super neat and tidy. I get that…

BUT, it’s not really that hard to keep things straight and serving the second yoke loop is way easier.

Just be sure to reset your jig to the same layup length. Also, not hard to do.

Building string is more art than science… don’t get sloppy, but it’s more about technique IMHO.


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I wouldn't need to reset the jig because I wouldn't even move it between the 2 halves. I can loosen enough with the spring head to be able to take the fist bundle off without moving either of the heads on the track. Both halves will come out exactly the same. I like this. Going to try it on my next buss cable

 

[PowerLineman83]

I wouldn't need to reset the jig because I wouldn't even move it between the 2 halves. I can loosen enough with the spring head to be able to take the fist bundle off without moving either of the heads on the track. Both halves will come out exactly the same. I like this. Going to try it on my next buss cable

Right on!

The double length technique is pretty sweet for multi colored strings. You end up with both colors in each yoke leg. I like that too. Lately it’s been all solid color strings for me AND my current setup has be limited for length… so buss cables have been done the Automan way…


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[fgignac]

Right on!

The double length technique is pretty sweet for multi colored strings. You end up with both colors in each yoke leg. I like that too. Lately it’s been all solid color strings for me AND my current setup has be limited for length… so buss cables have been done the Automan way…


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I also like having both colours in the yoke legs because I like to be able to see how many twists are in them. Probably one of the seasons I never thought to split the bundles.

But on pinstripe strings I sometimes do one leg each colour with a single strand pinstripe up each. That might look pretty sweet. And it could easily be done with the split bundle method