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Thoughts on Hunting Recurve - Bear Super Grizzly

9.3K views 44 replies 15 participants last post by  reveranddean  
#1 ·
I started shooting a PSE Nighthawk as my first recurve a few months ago. Now I'm looking at a one piece recurve for hunting, preferably 45#. Currently looking at the Bear Super Grizzly. Anyone using this in their hunting setup or are there any other contenders to consider in the same price range?
 
#2 ·
I have been researching two, the Kodiak Hunter and Super Grizzly and watching every review I can. I my opinion the Super Grizzly would perform well and seems to be a great bow to shoot. Also, I really like the riser and grip of the SG. From what I seen if I bought one today it would be the SG.
 
#35 ·
I own a Super Grizzly and love it. That said, and I wish I knew this when I bought it, there is zero difference between the performance if the Grizzly and the Super Grizzly. The arrow speed us virtually identical. You can disregard the supposed superiority if the fast flight string. In fact, my Montana is faster than the Super Grizzly . Save the money and buy a plain Grizzly.
 
#4 ·
I had a sage and got a super grizz.
love it. Lighter and shoots great. Easier to move in treestand and stalking.
if buying new, get a custom string made or a new one from 3 rivers. Stock string is not very good.
mine is also in 45# so depending on draw i shoot full length 1916 camo hunters with 125grn heads.
from 2 blade to 3 blade they hit where i want them to.
 
#5 ·
I had a sage and got a super grizz.
love it. Lighter and shoots great. Easier to move in treestand and stalking.
if buying new, get a custom string made or a new one from 3 rivers. Stock string is not very good.
mine is also in 45# so depending on draw i shoot full length 1916 camo hunters with 125grn heads.
from 2 blade to 3 blade they hit where i want them to.
Awesome. Did you have any issues with vibration/hand shock? I just shot one at Bass Pro yesterday (45#) and it felt great, but did notice a bit of vibration. I figured some limbsavers could help, but maybe it was due to the wrong arrows and not as good string?
 
#7 ·
I had a Suoer Grizzly for awhile. It was a nice bow. I found that I shot longer bows more accurately.. for me that’s 60 inches and longer.
It might just all be in my head but my groups out to 25 yards were always tighter and more consistent with 60 62 and 64 inch bows.
If I got lazy on my form the Super Grizzly took me to task. I draw to 29 inches and was getting 47.5 pounds out of my 45 pound limbs.
I also found that it preferred heavier arrows, either carbons or aluminum. The arrow mine liked the best was a 2016 with a 125 grain head. I will advise you to immediately get a better string, the factory one is not very good. Further, even new production Suoer Grizzly bows are FF compatible, where as the Grizzly is NOT. Having owned one I would say it was a nice bow all around, just not the best option for me. I much preferred the Super Kodiak. If you have an opportunity, shoot one first and compare. If you buy one and don’t like it there are plenty of people that will buy it and you won’t loose much.
 
#8 ·
I had a Suoer Grizzly for awhile. It was a nice bow. I found that I shot longer bows more accurately.. for me that’s 60 inches and longer.
It might just all be in my head but my groups out to 25 yards were always tighter and more consistent with 60 62 and 64 inch bows.
If I got lazy on my form the Super Grizzly took me to task. I draw to 29 inches and was getting 47.5 pounds out of my 45 pound limbs.
I also found that it preferred heavier arrows, either carbons or aluminum. The arrow mine liked the best was a 2016 with a 125 grain head. I will advise you to immediately get a better string, the factory one is not very good. Further, even new production Suoer Grizzly bows are FF compatible, where as the Grizzly is NOT. Having owned one I would say it was a nice bow all around, just not the best option for me. I much preferred the Super Kodiak. If you have an opportunity, shoot one first and compare. If you buy one and don’t like it there are plenty of people that will buy it and you won’t loose much.
I tried to check one out at PB in Myrtle Beach while on vacation but they didn’t have any recurves. The SG is on my to get list. Many have posted how easy it is to shoot. I have to ask, what is it about the Super Kodiak that makes you prefer it over the SG?
 
#11 ·
Look up Bwana Archery. They are a local shop in my area. They are a family owned business, a busy shop especially this time of year. They are also very knowledgeable. They sell new and used recurves. They are a Bear trad dealer. Otherwise 3 rivers archery or Lancaster. I am a lefty and they even stock left handed trad bows. Andy or Doug are the most knowledgeable trad guys in there.
 
#17 · (Edited)
The only other is close in price a Chinese made bow in the Bearpaw line from Bodnik. The Slick Stick in true Recurve that is a clone of a Bear Super Grizzly but different with veneer woods for the bow and a core of all bamboo bow in the bamboo wood style with limbs of 4 layers of bamboo with Bearpaw glass that is used on all bows from Bodnik that are not English longbows that in USA nobody sells them. You can get from 3 Rivers the Bearpaw Slick Stick in Recurve (as well as Reflex Deflex), and it is close in price to a standard Bear Grizzly only a little better quality then the Bear Grizzly yet not as nice as a slightly more expensive Bear Super Grizzly or a $600 Bodnik Slick Stick (order from Germany, navigating the website) that is missing the wood veneers.

Also do not sell the Nighthawk as I think that has a stabilizer/bowfishing hole and for heavier limbs try looking online for the limbs of a PSE/Black Hunter model of Nighthawk limbs for bowfishing as none of the Bear models or the Bearpaw are made as this hole for the bow. Also, the light limbs are nice for form work/a specific thing like figuring out the ideal anchor for your body design/genetics.
 
#20 ·
The only other is close in price a Chinese made bow in the Bearpaw line from Bodnik. The Slick Stick in true Recurve that is a clone of a Bear Super Grizzly but different with veneer woods for the bow and a core of all bamboo bow in the bamboo wood style with limbs of 4 layers of bamboo with Bearpaw glass that is used on all bows from Bodnik that are not longbows that in USA nobody sells them. You can get from 3 Rivers the Bearpaw Slick Stick in Recurve (as well as Reflex Deflex), and it is close in price to a standard Bear Grizzly only a little better quality then the Bear Grizzly yet not as nice as a slightly more expensive Bear Super Grizzly or a $600 Bodnik Slick Stick (order from Germany, navigating the website) that is missing the wood veneers.

Also do not sell the Nighthawk as I think that has a stabilizer/bowfishing hole and for heavier limbs try looking online for the limbs of a PSE/Black Hunter model of Nighthawk limbs for bowfishing as none of the Bear models or the Bearpaw are made as this hole for the bow. Also, the light limbs are nice for form work/a specific thing like figuring out the ideal anchor for your body design/genetics.
That Bodnik has a 30 year warranty according to the website. It has a small sight window and should not be shot off a stick on rest, as the arrow is canted a little off center when the arrow is nocked on the string, when using a weather rest. At least these were my observations when i shot it. It is made to be a shelf shooter. I prefer a big sight window and on some bows I like a stick on rest. All personal preference of course. YMMV. My friend who is also a lefty has one. It shoots nice off the self, the grip is nice and fit and is really nice. Order thru Kustom King or 3 rivers, so you have US based customer service, in case of a problem.
 
#30 · (Edited)
The short Bear recurves were never fast bows. What year, it was the same year the Bear Whitetail compound came out. How fast are the newer models? I don't know. How important is speed in real life? People love to sling theories around. Smithca, what you need is a 60" Robertson longbow and shoot it like John Schulz would. I had a kid here last year looking to hunt deer, I had a 62" 58@28 Robertson for him to try. It was about how tall he was and about 42 or 43 pounds at his draw. I didn't give him the bow, but he did fine with it. I think his rich daddy sent him down the wrong path and bought him a kid compound.
 
#31 ·
I have a for Left eye dominate a Left hand Longbow with the Medium notched grip for a bow as it is the Youth Longbow Model longbow 52 inches from GREAT PLAINS TRADITIONAL BOW COMPANY in Hickory with adult sized grip on, the small notched universal grip, some dished, or no flat tend to be too big for my hands. It fits me as I have a 24.5--25 inch draw with the bow being 24 inch for the bows measured draw so the Youth Longbow is 45--47 pounds at my draw. I may have to with the Youth Longbow get an AMS traditional mount with some barebow weight set to help give my bow some weight for left and right stability as I forgot how light Hickory was when I ordered the bow or would have gotten the GREAT PLAINS TRADITIONAL BOW COMPANY Youth Longbow in Osage Orange (one of the choices) as that is a heavy wood.

I do have an old duel sided all fiberglass Longbow 60 inches that is an Actionbow by Actionrod 8200 model made from 1961 to end of 1979 all the same when they stopped as this model. The model has a 25--26 inch draw as I get the bow 34--35 pounds at my draw for the 36 pound model. I would have got the 43--46 pound models of this bow but most of them are garbage used up on e-Bay due to either a person needing a bow with this low of a draw and it being hard to find or teens with a first hunting bow so they got thrashed in either case for Deer/Turkey hunting. I like a medium notched universal grip as bows as I can then get the full longbow grip for the bow especially if the bow forward handle part is flat like the two bows I have in longbow style.

I have had to use left hand bows since 2002 when I found out I am left eye dominate massively to the point that soon as switching, I was instantly better then before.
 
#32 ·
I had one guy that I was helping, he was also left eye dominant and right handed. He had issues shooting right handed. We tried for a month to get him into a left hand bow. It was beyond his coordination. One day I used auto double stick tape and taped a bow sight on a 42 pound right hand recurve, that worked for him and he could shoot right handed. He borrowed a couple pieces of the 200 mph tape and moved the sight to his hunting recurve and was good to go. I do not have a dominant eye, but from what i have seen, whether the person intentionally gaps or not, when shooting instinctive it is best to have the dominant eye over the arrow. For myself, being a switch hitter, I need to do some draws without releasing to get things settled.
 
#33 ·
Also, Right hand left eye dominate and as soon as I switched shooting in a summer Rec class, I was way better at shooting and could easily handle as a 13--14 year old kid a 30--35 pound bow whereas before 30 pounds at my draw was the best I could do shooting right eye. Then my brother is dual dominate who can hit consistently well 95% of the time provided the arrows match his bow/close enough and my mom is almost dual dominate when doing archery but uses her just minorly off right eye due to the Military that forced her in mid 1980's to be right handed. Then my dad is right eye dominate.
Sounds like this guy you were teaching is no dominate eye in that nether eye can be made to work for dormancy and is very uncoordinated or they have well beyond 20/20 like some of the best duel dominate eyes in the world to the point this person would have to use both eyes directly over the arrow to aim because they both try to aim at the same time, something that is not as big of an issue with a

When I use any kind of sight that is not just a metal pin like a T sight or on gun more then a V or other totally open sight but has an enclosure to the top, including guns with a scope, I have to close the non dominate eye or I get a headache trying to look because I can easily slip into cross eye when aiming for no real reason, however the cross eye does not affect my aim usually as I am so used to it with open sighting. I think my dad is the same way as I see him do this aiming method at times to be more accurate but he will use one eye even with guns that are sans a closed sight then I do or bows with a pin or no sight if he is struggling with his aim. I do not need to do the closed eye with open sights/no sight bows.
 
#43 ·
I have a Nighthawk and a Super Grizzly. The Grizzly is really fast. My Nighthawk is an older Heritage Take down version #65. I get 157 fps. The Super Grizzly is #50 and I get 168 fps, same arrows. I shoot a B-55 struing on the Super Grizzly and whatever the bow shop recommended for the Nighthawk. I love the the Suer Grizzly. No stacking at all and it’s made me a better shooter. Arrows are
Easton Legacy XX75 - 2018, B4 12.3 GPI. My arrows are 29.5 inches long. I use these cheap 100 grain three (is four) blade “Hunting Broadheads” you can buy on Amazon because they work just fine on deer and elk and you just throw them away when they get dull. Maybe someone will tell me of a better broad head. I carry a Benchmade Pukka knife. They discont8nued the short one I have but they still make the longer version.
I also have some older carbon arrows - Cabalas Stalker Extreme , 400 55/70 8.4 GPI. I don’t like shooting carbon because it’s so light and you might as well shoot an empty bow. I have seen several bows destroyed by carbon arrows. They are wickedly fast if you are confident your bow can handle them.