[moosetrack]

from what i got from javis posts is you do not need to pay attention to the holes on the cams and only go by how the cables hit and lay on the draw stops i have timed my 04 protech and my 98 magtech with command cams this way and works very good.a draw board works very well for doing this...

 

[moosetrack]

and yes the slam 1/2 cams can be done this way

 

[BIG ARCHERY NUT]

from what i got from javis posts is you do not need to pay attention to the holes on the cams and only go by how the cables hit and lay on the draw stops i have timed my 04 protech and my 98 magtech with command cams this way and works very good.a draw board works very well for doing this...

The top cam lags the bottom cam by a long ways. Should I adjust both the buss and control cables in opposite directions to get it back in time? I mean it's a long way behind the bottom cam.

Anyone know how many turns you can turn the limb bolts out on this bow?

 

[BIG ARCHERY NUT]

Ttt

 

[Buster of Xs]

The top cam lags the bottom cam by a long ways. Should I adjust both the buss and control cables in opposite directions to get it back in time? I mean it's a long way behind the bottom cam.

Anyone know how many turns you can turn the limb bolts out on this bow?

The Slam and a Half cams are timed using the exact same set of instructions used for the Cam and a Half. The only differences in them is the shape of the cam lobe (cosmetic) and they adjust in 1" increments instead of 1/2". Go to the tuning section and find the instructions posted there for cam and a half timing and follow it. I've timed a bunch of 'em using that method.

As far as the top cam lagging, it happens. The buss cable creeped. But instead of just adjusting the stop timing follow Javi's instructions on synching the cams and returning the bow to spec before fine tuning the stops.

 

[Buksknr53]

I have a Reflex Timberwolf with the Slam and a Half cams. I have found that when the cables are visable within the timing holes, my cams are in sync. The cables don't have to be centered, but somewhere within the timing holes. When the cables are not within the timing holes, my bow shoots like crap. It torques really bad and wants to jump out of my hand. Usually one cam or the orher is under rotated. That has been my experience with the Slam and a Half cams.
I have only had this issue (cams being out of sync) once. When I took the bow to a local Hoyt dealer, he told me to forget the timing marks, but could not get the cams to roll over together until the cables were within the timing holes!

 

[BIG ARCHERY NUT]

Thanks Guys!

Anyone know about how many turns on the limb bolts?

 

[huntnutsbro]

where are the timing holes on the slam and a halfs? my xp 35 has these, and i dont see a mark, or corisponding holes on the top and bottom cam. if they are holes, mine is way off, and i need to figure out which holes im workin with. lol i know this is an old post, but my season starts thursday, and this thing shoots like crap! help please

 

[Buster of Xs]

You'll see two small holes (one on each cam) and the cables should be near them now, even out of synch. You want the cables crossing them somewhere, and they don't have to be perfectly centered.

I put different limbs and cams (XT2000s and SpiralXs) on one of those. It's a shooter for sure.

 

[Buster of Xs]

Here's a pic to clear it up a bit.

 

[huntnutsbro]

thank you very much buster.

 

[Buster of Xs]

No problem, man. BTW, my avatar is the Redhead/Reflex I frankensteined. It's got 1 1/2" more brace and still gained speed. :mg:

 

[joe hunter 61]

This post just helped me. Thank You.