[averageJoe576]

Is too much tip weight a bad thing?

I.e. if 1616's with 50g tips are correctly spined for me, can I get some fatboy 500s or 2312s and PDP adjustable tip weight system and put ~250-300g tip weight (or whatever it takes) to get them to spine?

This way I could just remove 50g or so whenever I get new limbs

 

[theminoritydude]

can I get some fatboy 500s or 2312s and PDP adjustable tip weight system and put ~250-300g tip weight (or whatever it takes) to get them to spine?

Yes.

 

[averageJoe576]

Yes.

But will the be any detrimental effects of having that much weight up front?

 

[theminoritydude]

Depends, if you're shooting indoors, it's not going to matter at all. The same works for outdoors, as long as it reaches your target (whichever distance you are engaging) within the range of your sight window, you can use it as dense as it gets, but only until the angle which it impacts the board is at 90deg, anything beyond that would probably be statistically counterproductive.

 

[Mika Savola]

if 1616's with 50g tips are correctly spined for me, can I get some fatboy 500s or 2312s and PDP adjustable tip weight system and put ~250-300g tip weight (or whatever it takes) to get them to spine?

No, I'm afraid it is not possible...

 

[wfocharlie]

A lot of the barebow guys use heavy points indoors quite effectively to get a closer to "point on" target picture. The guy I was shooting next to in my last indoor event had big aluminum arrows with 315gr points(I asked him) and shot a 280/300 so it seems it can work if you get it set up right.

 

[cc46]

I doubt you can make this work.

1616 with 50 gr pt, 1000+ spine
to
Fatboy with 250-300 gr pt, 500 spine

That's twice as stiff, the arrow might need to be several inches longer as well, and would shoot like a log out of a light bow. I doubt if there are "rules of thumb" to follow here and you'd have to try it and report back.

If you are only shooting 18m, I'd like to see such an arrow fly out of a light bow, wonder if I could see the bending through the paradox or if I could out run it, haha.
Outdoors you'd have to aim so high it's just not practical.

 

[rat4go]

With my recurve, I shoot 28.25" 730 spined carbon 1 arrows with 110 gn points. 35 OTF and a 28.5" AMO draw. I have been very happy with this set up.

I bought some 2312 X7's to shoot out of my compound but for grins, I left 6 of them at full length (33.5") with 37 gn inserts and 125 gn field points. They are still a tick stiff for the recurve via bare shaft tuning out to 50yds. My uneducated opinion so far is that arrows this much "too long" (5 inches!!!) with fairly heavy tips are VERY SENSITIVE to nock point position and plunger position and likely, a poor release than a shorter more properly spined arrow that is launched with the tip weight closer to the plunger at full draw.

My recurve with the 2312 arrows is not yet tuned as well as when I was shooting the C1's. My compound loves the 2312 arrows so i might be cutting the rest down to proper compound length and going back to the C1's for the recurve very soon.

Technically, i think what you propose can work and there are dynamic spine calculation tools that can help get you close but based on my limited experience so far, it seems to result in a less forgiving set up.

 

[Dwolfe]

I have been shooting Easton x-2312 with my Indoor recurve. I have 29.25 in. draw length pulling 43lbs. With those aluminum 2312 I have 300 gr. in my pdp points and they are shooting very well. The arrows were very stiff so I kept going up in point weight till now the bare shafts are grouping right with the fletched.
The PDP points are nice just for this reason to experiment with.
No way will i shoot these outdoors with the recurve.. far to heavy and the 4 inch feathers are a drag! but nice for indoors.

Yes if when I go up in weight to say 46 or 47 I could just take out 50-100 gr. and compare very easily. Once I get to 200gr. I would prefer a solid point. Have had a couple weights break off inside., and definitely not as precise as an easton or pro point.
If anyone knows of a solid 300gr. 2312 point let me know!

 

[averageJoe576]

Thanks for all the great info everyone. I think when I go up a limb size I'll get 6 of the 'correct' spined shafts and 6 2312 and give it a go

Dwolfe, I did come across these:
http://www.tophatarchery.com/en/for...points/Onepiece/TopHat-LL-3D-2312-300-gn.html

But, whats the motivation for moving away from the PDP tips?
Did you get the tool for adding weight through the nock, and if so, do you recommend it?

 

[Dwolfe]

I believe correct form and release is first order priority, but beyond that, the weights thread into some of the points crooked a little bit so not exactly in the middle, so i suppose it could give slightly more variance in arrow flight.. I honestly haven't tried any other points other than the PDP, so Its more or less just a mental thing, so most of the time I just continue to work on form and not worry about it... they fly fine! In bigger competitions I would prefer to have full confidence in my equipment and a more precise point.
I do recommend them for any who wants to try out different point weights...great for that!

I don't have the nock wrench. I find it easier to use my heat gun and pull out the point and apply more hot melt, than it is to pull off the nock. The nocks are incredibly tight on my arrows and I have crushed the nock a couple times taking them off!
- I also have had good luck putting some blue thread lock on the threads of the weight so they don't come loose.

 

[anmactire]

You can make a very stiff arrow work if you can find the point weight required. The only issue is when you need so much point weight that the arrows aren't making it to the target. I have recently just been using arrow length and point weight to get on tune as I find the results are just fine doing that. Puts them in the middle anyway!