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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bill, I did. No change.

Cube, 5/8" is what I was running and it looked ******edly high. I have heard that three under sometimes needs up to an inch. That just doesn't make sense. It is hard to see arrow flight outside, with the skitos dive bombing me after the kids hit the rack in the evening. I have played around with brace too.

Sorry the posts are so scattered in the beginning. I was on my phone and in the middle of three things and didn't want to lose any of it.

On another note, I REALLY like the Hoyt GM2 riser with a Dura-Lite quiver but their limbs would have to improve to make it to a status of junk. I was thinking Border HEX-6 wood limbs. Do any of you have any advice? I like my Titan but not the grip as it feels too narrow. I like the GM2 with the low wrist grip that they put on the compounds.
 

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It looks like 4 fletch to me and shooting off the shelf like you have in the one pix you cant help but have contact with the 6 o'clock feather. You might try 3 fletch with cock feather in and you "might" get away with no contact. I shoot a raised rest and plunger and with 4 fletch I see a slight mar on my shelf material made by that 6 o'clock fletch.

I shoot 3 under with my Titan and shoot it even tiller and have about 7/8" nock height.
 

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I agree with Yohon.

First, if you are shooting 4 fletch, and there is a fletch at 6:00 (can't really tell from the pic), there is no way you are going have it not make contact with that shelf, especially if you're shooting it just as you have shown in the pic. Even if you have it built up a little (not shown in pic) a 6:00 fletch is problematic.

Second, it appears that you are using fletching that is pretty high profile, compounding your problem.

Third, the Titan shelf is just too flat and too wide to expect no contact with anything other than perfectly tuned arrows if you don't built it up.

Obviously, it's hard to tell just from a picture, but if I had to guess, most of your contact issues revolve around your choice of fletching and fletching orientation. It could be a shaft that is too stiff, or a nock point that is too low, but even with those, you shouldn't be getting that much contact if you have your nock height and fletching orientation right.

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This is what I do, and I get no contact at all, even with arrows that are supposed to be too stiff, and a nock height that is 3/8 to 1/2 inch above level. I shoot cock feather in, with standard 5" parabolic fletching.

Tree Wood Plant Trunk


The Titan (among others) just gives you too much working room to ever be getting contact like that, but it gets tough if you have an arrow laying directly on all that flat real estate.

KPC
 

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On another note, I REALLY like the Hoyt GM2 riser with a Dura-Lite quiver but their limbs would have to improve to make it to a status of junk. I was thinking Border HEX-6 wood limbs. Do any of you have any advice? I like my Titan but not the grip as it feels too narrow. I like the GM2 with the low wrist grip that they put on the compounds.
Isn't it funny how different archers perceive things differently. I shot the Hoyt Gamemaster for a couple years before I got my Titan. Like you, I thought the stock limbs were lacking and switched them out with a foam/glass Sebastian Flute limb. Big improvement.

One of the things I like most about the GM was how narrow the grip was. When I first started shooting the Titan, the grip actually felt too wide... exactly the opposite of how you perceive them.

:confused: :wink: :confused:

FWIW, I shot the GM with the felt pads, exactly like I do with the my Titan. I have switched to smaller diameter pads, but same concept.

Still life photography Art


KPC
 

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What has been said is good advice.

You want to minimize arrow contact with the riser/rest, make minimal contact points directly above the deepest part of the grip, also it looks like you may be at or beyond center so consider building up the strike plate also directly above the deepest part of the grip. May even be worth trying a plunger with or w/o an elevated rest.

this applys not only to the titan but just about every bow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It looks like 4 fletch to me and shooting off the shelf like you have in the one pix you cant help but have contact with the 6 o'clock feather. You might try 3 fletch with cock feather in and you "might" get away with no contact. I shoot a raised rest and plunger and with 4 fletch I see a slight mar on my shelf material made by that 6 o'clock fletch.

I shoot 3 under with my Titan and shoot it even tiller and have about 7/8" nock height.
It has the same results with bare shaft. I think that the issue is nock set height. I have shot cock feather in with 3-fletch.

What plunger and rest combo do you use? Pics?
 

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I'd remove as much of the unnecessary material as you can. The arrow only has two points of contact. No need to go wall to wall on the shelf and riser. That just gives more bow realestate for the arrow to whack. See Gereps setup in post 16 for a workable setup. Strike plate looks like it could use a little more build out as Jparanee said. In post 9 you're showing from shooters perspective and it looks like the string is just a hair right of center and the arrow is left of string. If the string were centered the arrow might end up inside the string line. It should be, in most cases, at least right edge arrow to left edge string viewed from the rear. That will give you more paradox to get the flex you need to have the arrow dance around the riser.
 
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