[tamccain]

A couple things that people have been telling me is - check for cam lean, and also check the spine on your arrows.

You will need to give more information in order for everyone to help you

What bow?
Draw Weight?
What arrow?
Arrow Spine?
What rest?

 

[pointysticks]

i kinda think shooting a bow great is about consistency. if you torque the bow a tad, and set the bow up accordingly..and you keep your form the exactly the same everytime..you will be super accurate.

it's those darn inconsistencies that send my occasional arrow awry. i cant get bulletholes either. but i can put broadheads and fieldtip into the same circle out to 60..i am fine with that.

i've read threads about strings being derailed by induced torque. i wouldnt go twisting things about. but i'm paranoid.

 

[BIRDSHOT]

2010 Martin Firecat TR1
Draw weight was 62lbs @ 28in but Ive been playin w/ it so prob a little higher lbs now
Easton Epic 400s 28.5in
Wisker Bisket

I havent played with any other arrow types but according to the chart they are correct. Ive also been having a problem w/ vain clearance on the WB. Its slightly hitting left side of rest & not papertuning, this is the main reason I purposely adding the torque to try & see what works or what needs to happen.....
Ive tried my local pro shop but theyre pretty arrogant and dont really want to "waste their time"

 

[tamccain]

I don't quite understand how you have vane clearance problems with a WB. Do you have some REALLY tall vanes or what?

 

[Stab 'em]

Now that you have some paper tuning done, move on to the next step of tuning the bow per the Easton Tuning Guide and see if the thing will shoot better for you. http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf

After eyeballing in my centershot and adjusting the rest accordingly I shoot and adjust the sight in for 20 yard bullseyes. Then I do a walk back tune to adjust the arrow rest for the true centershot; actually skipping the paper tuning step. I do the walkback tuning process several times, adjusting the sight, then adjusting the rest; until both are perfect. I do it from long yardages rather than short yardage distances like the Modified French Tuning calls for to make it very accurate also.

You should not be too worried about the paper tear after the bow is tuned in because the arrow will oscillate around the spine and if you are shooting at a range where the arrow is going through the paper when it is bent then it will give you that tear you have been seeing. With some bow setups you could chase that tear all day if you did not move on to the next step of tuning. Good luck.

 

[tamccain]

Now that you have some paper tuning done, move on to the next step of tuning the bow per the Easton Tuning Guide and see if the thing will shoot better for you. http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf

He doesn't have paper tuning done. He is only getting a bullet hole by torqueing the bow.

 

[Stab 'em]

Here's the link that explains modified french tuning and proper centershot tuning. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1381076

 

[bowhntng4evr]

Get yourself an Archeryinnovations anchor sight. It will tell you when you are applying torque the the bow. It doesn't take much torque to throw your shot off.

 

[BIRDSHOT]

Im actually twisting the riser to the left at full draw to shoot cleanly through the WB and bullet holes on paper.....

TAM; Im using Blazer vanes... Not sure if these are taller vanes or not

 

[Scott Li]

Im actually twisting the riser to the left at full draw to shoot cleanly through the WB and bullet holes on paper.....

TAM; Im using Blazer vanes... Not sure if these are taller vanes or not

I assume you are a fairly new shooter? If you try making sure you are pointing your bow hand thumb straight towards the target. This will help keep the bow torque free and will help with vane clearance on your rest. I also had this same problem when I began shooting. When you are at full draw look up at the cam wheel on top and see if your string is straight in line with the cam groove, then apply your torque and see what that looks like. When the string is lined up with the cam groove then you are shooting torque free. (closer anyway) . Hope this helps, it helped me a lot

 

[BIRDSHOT]

Yaa Im a newbie... Does it show?... Didnt realize this can get pretty technical. So at full draw when I add the torque I feel it lines up better, not so much on the bottom cam, but top wheel needs to adjust so I dont have to twist it straight, right?. Whats the diagnosis?

 

[BIRDSHOT]

ttt

 

[fletched]

If you have the rest set for true center shot and it is not punching a good hole and you have to torque the riser to get a good hole, then cam lean may be the problem.

 

[Scott Li]

Yaa Im a newbie... Does it show?... Didnt realize this can get pretty technical. So at full draw when I add the torque I feel it lines up better, not so much on the bottom cam, but top wheel needs to adjust so I dont have to twist it straight, right?. Whats the diagnosis?

If you feel that it lines up better when you torque it.........then you are probably holding it with torque to begin with. I have seen videos where you should hold your hand out in fron of you like if your telling someone to stop and then place your bow in your hand. That way the bow handle sits at the base of your palm as if it was on the end of your bone. You might be letting the palm of your hand put torque on the bow. Practice in front of a mirror and see if you are twisting the riser when you draw back the bow and how it looks at full draw. When you feel like you are adding the torque you are probably holding it correctly....Just my thoughts

 

[Padgett]

What you think was twisting the bow may have been getting rid of torque if your grip was wrong to begin with. Many guys think they have a torque free grip on the bow and they get lucky and their bow will tune even though their grip sucks. Some times you can't move the rest enough to make the bow tune because your form is bad. Maybe you need to shoot for a week with the new grip and see how good of a tune you can get with it after a week.

 

[BIRDSHOT]

The problem is I cant get good arrow flight with any type of natural hand position, I have to physically "twist" the bow to get a clean pass through the rest and to bullethole paper. When I draw back the string does not look straight in line w/ idler wheel on top, after slightly twisting the riser the same direction i did to get the clean pass through & bullet hole the string looks to be more in line.... I consede my grip is an issue but no matter what I do I cant get that much torque in or out of it w/out exaggerating it & physically twisting the riser a little w/ a "white knucle grip"

 

[Scott Li]

The problem is I cant get good arrow flight with any type of natural hand position, I have to physically "twist" the bow to get a clean pass through the rest and to bullethole paper. When I draw back the string does not look straight in line w/ idler wheel on top, after slightly twisting the riser the same direction i did to get the clean pass through & bullet hole the string looks to be more in line.... I consede my grip is an issue but no matter what I do I cant get that much torque in or out of it w/out exaggerating it & physically twisting the riser a little w/ a "white knucle grip"

Oh yes you can...........just give it some time and practice. Do like I tell you and relax your hand then push your bow hand thumb towards the target, it WILL work and after a few weeks of making yourself do this it will become natural... Give it some time grasshopper it will work. If you are going to be worried about arrow flight and fletching contact before you fix your grip, then you had best consider buying a dropaway of some sort

 

[Van Handle]

When I paper tune I cant get bulletholes unless I purposely add torque, turning the riser to the right. Center shot seem to be good, Is there a good reason for this or is there anything I can adjust to make up for this? Thanks

Go to our website and watch the video on the Death Grip. I think it may help you understand shooter imposed bow torque.