[wisc]

I've shot mechanicals for my short bow career (3years). However, I'm going on an elk hunt and want to shoot cut on contact broadhead.

My field points shoot nice out to 50 yards. Today I put on a Golden Key Hornet broadhead and it hits way right 8-10 inches at 20 yards. I've read several posts and get more confused. Some just say move the pins, some say move the rest toward the broadhead and others say move it away from the broadhead???

The local bow shop set up my bow. We paper tuned it with field points.
I'm shooting bowtech stalker, 65#, 29inch draw, with gold tip 55/75 with 100 grain with a whisker biscuit.

I don't know a lot about adjusting things on the bow so basic help would be appreciated.
Thanks

 

[AT_X_HUNTER]

when the shop paper tuned the bow did you shoot it through paper or did they? I ask this because if your shot execution is different than theirs you will get different arrow flight. I guess what I am saying is if they shoot through paper with good form and technique and get a clean hole you may not if your form and technique is not as clean.

Broadheads have a habbit of amplifying our form flaws, like hand torque, punching/flinching, and a variety of other issues.

On a side note, I wouldn't have a problem shooting a mech. broadhead at an elk, but that's just me.

 

[red44]

It should'nt be to hard. If your broadheads are at least grouping, then move your rest small increments one way or the other and see if it gets farther from your fieldpoints or closer. You'll see which way you need to go. Mark where your rest is now before you move anything so you know where you started.

 

[arrowslinger200]

Are you shooting straight fletch or helical? Helical will keep the broadhead from windplaneing. Try Muzzys. Just a thought

 

[ftshooter]

I shoot hornets ..and they are a great flying head .. I will tell you what easton and a lot of others say ...Bh hitting right ..move rest to the left in small increments .. ..

Nothing wrong with Hornets .. Check for reviews on here .. they are good and don't cost a lot.. good deal IMO ..


here you go ..
http://www.martinarchery.com/o_manual/2001manual/supertun.html

 

[brokenblade]

First think i would do is spin check your broadhead to shaft alignment cause if they're not lined up, there's no way you'll ever get them to hit the same.

 

[Dodgedude]

Help is on the way

Spin check your arrows with the broadheads mounted on them. If they don't spin true, they won't fly true either.

The other thing I have found is that paper tuning is only a start for me. I only do it to save myself some time, as I can do it in my garage at night, when I can't get outside and do it right. If the guys at the pro shop paper tuned your bow, thats useless for you.

Do a search on walkback or group tuning and try one of them out. They farther out your can do it, the better. Increased distance will amplify your tuning issues. Also, when you come back to 20yds, it seems like cake.

After walkback tuning (with field points) and spinning your arrows, try shooting them again. Another thing to keep in mind, you can rotate you nocks a small amount. 1/4 turn or so. This will play into arrows dynamic spine and can help it fly its best.

Keep us posted.