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Discussion Starter #1
It's supposed to be nice because you can move from tree to tree quickly and efficiently without making much noise. My Question is how?

Don't you have to screw in steps around the tree and doesn't that take awhile to do?

How do you even quickly and easily climb up the tree with a saddle? I might be interested in getting a trophyline one, but not sure how one would climb the tree and screw in the steps fast and without making much noise or struggling much. How do you experts get up the trees and into position then screw in the steps?
 

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I'm not sure where you heard the claim that using a tree saddle was faster. Of coarse it could be but if you're hunting a fresh tree that has never been prepped it takes a little linger than a standard climber to get set up.

The advantage over a climber is that it is less gear to carry and you can hunt out of just about any tree. You don't have to hunt out of pencils.

One popular method is to prep several different trees in the post season to climb into with screw in tree steps or bolts to climb up. That way you can simply walk to your choosen tree for a hunt and climb up and settle in. That is very quiet and quick. The on the fly method means you walk in, pick a tree, slap some climbing sticks and or ez screw in's and get set up to hunt.
I usually do both. Some prepaired trees and dome virgin trees.


The other advantage is being able to use all aproaches to a tree for hunting. A climber has blind spots. A saddle has no blind spots. You can hunt 360 around a tree assuming you have openings to shoot through.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not sure where you heard the claim that using a tree saddle was faster. Of coarse it could be but if you're hunting a fresh tree that has never been prepped it takes a little linger than a standard climber to get set up.

The advantage over a climber is that it is less gear to carry and you can hunt out of just about any tree. You don't have to hunt out of pencils.

One popular method is to prep several different trees in the post season to climb into with screw in tree steps or bolts to climb up. That way you can simply walk to your choosen tree for a hunt and climb up and settle in. That is very quiet and quick. The on the fly method means you walk in, pick a tree, slap some climbing sticks and or ez screw in's and get set up to hunt.
I usually do both. Some prepaired trees and dome virgin trees.


The other advantage is being able to use all aproaches to a tree for hunting. A climber has blind spots. A saddle has no blind spots. You can hunt 360 around a tree assuming you have openings to shoot through.
Ah thanks, makes sense now.
 

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I have been using one for two years.

What i have learned is that yes you can move quite quickly and the choice of tree is not a problem. With a saddle you can get up in nearly any tree, unlike a climber. It also weighs less.

What I ahve began to do is have trees prepped like I would with a normal lock on stand, but with no stand. Then I have the ability to move if I need. For what I have paid in lock ons I could have had two Tree Saddles and a dozen Lone Wolf Sticks.

I recommend this to any serious hunter.
 

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madhunter said:
I have been using one for two years.

What i have learned is that yes you can move quite quickly and the choice of tree is not a problem. With a saddle you can get up in nearly any tree, unlike a climber.
madhunter,
You obviously have some experience with the Tree Saddle. How is it with huge trees...like oaks that you can't reach half way around?

There's a tree like this in the area that I hunt and the deer are always around it. It's smack out in the open, by itself and there's no way to climb it. It's like a wall with tree bark. :frusty:

Good hunting, Bowhunter57
 

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Bowhunter 57,

I have a suggestion for you. Take some screw in steps to get up the tree. The Tree Saddle is also good for some of the larger trees. It will take some getting use to with the size of the tree.
Wherever you want to tie off at, do this. Use a limb or a step and screw it into the tree. Take the 12' safety belt and just go around the tree once. this will allow you to have more room for adjustment.
I hope this helps. It really has saved my butt quite a few times with those larger Trees.
 

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I have climbing spikes... im up any tree I want in 5 mins... all I do is put in 2 or 3 steps as a platform. (this is 100x faster and definately quieter than any method out there to my knowledge)

Thats what all the orginal treesaddle guys use... and this method makes you extremely mobile...

as for big trees, if you can't get a strap around the tree it's difficult.... my reccomendation (if you already have a saddle) is if you are able to get a screw in step around the back side of the tree, Trophyline makes an extra long safety strap (the strap that goes around the tree) and you could put it around once...we have an Oak Tree like this on Mr. Green's farm and it worked great
 

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I have a very large tree I would like to hang in also. Wonder if you would use a large lifting strap (ones used by rigging companies usually rated in tons) and would wrap it around a large tree in the choke fashion, then put the saddle strap through the open loop. This method would not use up so much of the saddle strap and eliminate the amount of drape you could use to get comfortable. Make sense??? If you really wanted to you could leave it up in the tree too.
 

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I have a very large tree I would like to hang in also. Wonder if you would use a large lifting strap (ones used by rigging companies usually rated in tons) and would wrap it around a large tree in the choke fashion, then put the saddle strap through the open loop. This method would not use up so much of the saddle strap and eliminate the amount of drape you could use to get comfortable. Make sense??? If you really wanted to you could leave it up in the tree too.
Thats very very similar to how we did our tree....

There used be some pictures of the tree on the web-site I believe....I'll check it out
 

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Post it if you can find it, would be interested in seeing it. I have access to these straps at work and have always thought of using one for this application.
 

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I can't seem to find the picture...it was in Inside archery a long time ago and I thought they used it ont he new web-site, but I guess not....

However, I did find this picture of a guy using a saddle and using it incorrectly....Don't shoot like this if you don't have to... it negates the whole idea of the saddle and that you can move around the tree and shoot comfortably....Never say never though
 

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I can't seem to find the picture...it was in Inside archery a long time ago and I thought they used it ont he new web-site, but I guess not....

However, I did find this picture of a guy using a saddle and using it incorrectly....Don't shoot like this if you don't have to... it negates the whole idea of the saddle and that you can move around the tree and shoot comfortably....Never say never though

I actually practice that shot all the time. It's a very easy shot to make. The whole reason for making the shot that way is because I'm behind the tree while making the shot....lot less movement so less chance you'll spook the deer.
 

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I have a very large tree I would like to hang in also. Wonder if you would use a large lifting strap (ones used by rigging companies usually rated in tons) and would wrap it around a large tree in the choke fashion, then put the saddle strap through the open loop. This method would not use up so much of the saddle strap and eliminate the amount of drape you could use to get comfortable. Make sense??? If you really wanted to you could leave it up in the tree too.
dang, I never thought of using chokers but that's a good idea. We got alot of 'em laying around the shop in different lengths.
 

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I actually practice that shot all the time. It's a very easy shot to make. The whole reason for making the shot that way is because I'm behind the tree while making the shot....lot less movement so less chance you'll spook the deer.
You still be behind the tree if you slipped your bow right along the left side of that tree... and the belt, tree ECT wouldn't be so obstructive...
 

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I need to try the spikes

I have climbing spikes... im up any tree I want in 5 mins... all I do is put in 2 or 3 steps as a platform. (this is 100x faster and definately quieter than any method out there to my knowledge)

Thats what all the orginal treesaddle guys use... and this method makes you extremely mobile...

as for big trees, if you can't get a strap around the tree it's difficult.... my reccomendation (if you already have a saddle) is if you are able to get a screw in step around the back side of the tree, Trophyline makes an extra long safety strap (the strap that goes around the tree) and you could put it around once...we have an Oak Tree like this on Mr. Green's farm and it worked great
I have been seriously considering using climbing spikes (after noticing that one on the guys photographed demonstrating the saddle on the packaging was wearing them). Are they difficult to use?? (safely that is). That would be very slick. The spikes that I have held are not very light (they weigh about the same as the 10 screw ins that I carry to climb). The time it takes to screw them in has never been a BIG problem for me, but It is alway good to get up the tree quickly (hate to get busted just after hiking in and getting ALMOST set). What I really hate is that I often get hot and sweaty doing it - especially since I am dressed warm to sit for hours in the cold - sweating the bottom layer is a bit of bummer and dressing while hanging in the saddle is a feat for Hoodini (probably spelt that wrong). Can you use the spikes comfortly and quitely for stepping around in place of a nornal "platform"??
I will have to give this a try.
Also on the large tree question, I have carried a spare strap and used it chocker style with good sucess (well I did not shoot anything but the saddle did it's part). The standard strap gets used up and too short pretty quick with a treee over 20" diameter or so.
 

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I bought some spikes back in the summer. I can climb with them using a linesman belt. But I don't know the best way to set up to climb. How much distance do you want want between you and the tree. I found out that not enough distance make it hard to spike the tree and it seemed like too much distance made the tops of the spikes want to dig into my leg and put pressure on my knees. Also how long should the spikes be adjusted in length. Do you want the spikes to come up beside the knee or do you want the top of the spike to be about 3" below your knee so that when you bend your knee the top of the spike is not pressing against the knee?

How do you sharpen the spikes? Do you file on the inside of the spur and try to get the point and sides of the spur razor sharp? I have not sharpened mine but it seems like they would bite into the tree and hold better if they were razor sharp.

Any detailed information on how to climb better with spikes would be appreciated.

Oh I have the tree suit not the tree saddle and I can't come up with a way to use spikes and the tree suit like I want. I use the bottom of a climber with the tree suit to climb a tree like using a climber but it take twice as long to climb compared to the time of just using a climber.
 

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You still be behind the tree if you slipped your bow right along the left side of that tree... and the belt, tree ECT wouldn't be so obstructive...
But form the angle around the left side of the tree I have a severe quartering angle while from the right side of the tree I have a perfect slight quartering angle.


I'm not saying it's a preferred way to a take a shot out of the saddle. I'm just saying, there are instances when you need to be able to make that shot.
 

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I have been seriously considering using climbing spikes (after noticing that one on the guys photographed demonstrating the saddle on the packaging was wearing them). Are they difficult to use?? (safely that is). That would be very slick. The spikes that I have held are not very light (they weigh about the same as the 10 screw ins that I carry to climb). The time it takes to screw them in has never been a BIG problem for me, but It is alway good to get up the tree quickly (hate to get busted just after hiking in and getting ALMOST set). What I really hate is that I often get hot and sweaty doing it - especially since I am dressed warm to sit for hours in the cold - sweating the bottom layer is a bit of bummer and dressing while hanging in the saddle is a feat for Hoodini (probably spelt that wrong). Can you use the spikes comfortly and quitely for stepping around in place of a nornal "platform"??
I will have to give this a try.
Also on the large tree question, I have carried a spare strap and used it chocker style with good sucess (well I did not shoot anything but the saddle did it's part). The standard strap gets used up and too short pretty quick with a treee over 20" diameter or so.
whoops see below
 
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