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Discussion Starter #1
I spent the $75 on the Revolution 2.0 and its been nothing but a pain in the a##. I mounted it on a 2013 PSE Stinger 3g to accommodate my react 1 sight along with new strings and now its driving me insane. The bow is 33 and 1/4" ata (1/4 over spec), The upper limb tiller measures 1/8" greater than the lower and both limbs maxed out. I tied my dloop and got center shot close with the help of a bow square then ran some Easton 400 Da Torch arrows threw paper. Corrected my horizontal tears then the vertical to mere perfection but noticed some discoloration on my blazer vanes. With the help of the old ladies lipstick, verified that both the lower vanes are hitting the front arm of the rest. Tried rotating the nock to no avail. Tried installing the extra arms. NO GO! Modified french tune and 20,30,40 walk back tune are fine but the contact is still happening. Does anyone have any up to date information on the matter? Any help would be obliged.

TR has great Customer service but they haven't got back with me yet.
 

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I have had 1 issue with mine and it was because it was out of time, where the cord attached to my bus cable slipped up and the arms were making contact, slipped football clamp down tightened good to go don't know if that helps at all
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have had 1 issue with mine and it was because it was out of time, where the cord attached to my bus cable slipped up and the arms were making contact, slipped football clamp down tightened good to go don't know if that helps at all
The activation cord is installed to TR spec. How long have you had yours? Does it make more noise the more you shoot? Thanks
 

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I would say 2 months and no it is still quiet and working good, maybe you got a bad one happens some times, I would call TR and tell them, from what I hear they have good customer service good luck
 

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I have had the same issue with mine. Like TGJ said, it was because over time the cord was moving up the cable. I used 2 small dots from a paint marker to mark where it worked. I noticed that when the fletchings would contact, the cable had slightly moved up from my 2 paint marks. I love the idea of the rest but it still bothers me.
 

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Firstly if you have contact, none of the tuning you did was worth it. It's going to change. I don't ever bother tuning if I know there is contact. Secondly, I've installed a bunch of TR Revolution rests and when they are done correctly, it's a pretty reliable rest. You have to make sure you put the cord low enough, at or below the level of the bottom of your grip, and you have to make sure that the arms aren't fully rotating until the last 1" of DL. The later the better with that rest. I know the rest is fast enough so don't let anyone tell you differently. I've put them on a couple PSE Omens before without problems.

When I install one, I get the centershot perfectly the way I want it and then attach the cord. I actually will pull 1/2-3/4" of cord around the screw on the rest so that I have some extra to play with. Then put the cord on the cable and draw the bow until I get it close to where it's coming up at the last 1" of DL. I lock it down in that spot by serving above it and then do all the fine tuning to the timing with the screw on the rest and by pulling the cord one way or the other. It's a lot easier that way.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Problem solved. When I installed the rest I ensured it was to TR spec but overlooked a few things. My string install was sloppy. The first set of strings I put on from winners choice called for no further action needed in yoke tuning, however the second and newest set gave me a nasty left idler wheel lean. More than likely my fault during install. After I corrected that I glued up some bloodlines with a 3 degree heli and now I'm bustin x's at 50 all day with no clearance issues.
 
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