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Trophy Ridge Revolution Instructions, Questions, and Review

35K views 41 replies 23 participants last post by  E-Force Kid  
#1 ·
Trophy Ridge Revolution Rest

My friend just bought one of these, and asked me to put it on his bow. I am also replacing the string/cable set. The bow is a 2006 BT Tribute. I've been looking through the AT threads on the rest and noticed people would like to see the instructions which came with the rest. And seeing how Trophy Ridge has not managed to put the instructions on their own website...well.. I took the liberty and scanned them and here they are (see below). I hope they don't decide to sue me for posting what is most likely copyrighted mat'l. :wink: I doubt it seeing how I am helping their advertising with this thread.

I also am hoping someone who has set these up might answer some questions I have and then also, I have some opinions on it (as usual...of course).

Let's get the opinions done now:
First... it looks like an innovative design. The rest twists & locks when you draw the bow back, or you can also twist/lock it without drawing the bow back if you wish. Your preference.

It takes a little force to unlock it back to it's original position, but it stays locked if you let the bow down slowly. So if someone was stalking, and wanted the arrow ready on the string, it's cool, cause it won't fall out of the rest no matter how you turn the bow. All you gotta do is make sure your arrow doesn't come unknocked from the string. Clever.

What does unlock it..is when you shoot the bow... the bows momentum triggers the unlock, the rest turns and there seems to be plenty of clearance for all kinds of vanes, and including FOB's. I don't understand how the bows momentum triggers the unlock, but it apparently works. I am wondering if it will continue to work year after year. Anyone who has ever had a dropzone rest, knows that if you don't keep it well lubed (graphited) it tends to get sticky. So time will tell on the Revolution.

What's it made out of??? Some of it looks like machined aluminum (coated - the part where the arrow meets the rest), and of course the mount is metal (not sure if that's aluminum). The micro-adjust parts appear to be partly plastic, partly metal. (YES I RECOMMEND THE MICRO-ADJUST VERSION - it's doesn't cost that much more and gives you easier adjustment for tuning). In general, it looks like a fairly sturdy device, for the low price they are selling it for.

One thing I didn't like is the little cheap felt coverings they provide with it. The felt fabric fibers is so loose, it won't take long to wear it out. I tried to look and see if Trophy Ridge supplies replacement felts, and nothing doing...can't find them anywhere. I recommend buying some generic micro-fleece replacement felt off of E-Bay for about $6 (includes shipping), and you can cut your own. It'll probably work better than what they provided.

Instructions:
I don't know about other folks, but I found the instructions a little confusing... particularly steps 6-8. It's the part where you attempt to get the up/down initially adjusted. It assumes you have already installed the D-Loop on your string.
Step 6-8 states
6) While holding the launcher arm to the fully locked position, nock and arrow to the string.
7) Place another arrow flat on the shelf.
8) Adjust the nocking point, or arrow rest up or down so that the shafts are parallel their entire length.

Hmmm...here's the rub. You can turn the rest further than the locked position...it will turn a few degrees past the locked position. So when they say "fully locked" position, just what exactly to they mean. Do they mean the pre-loaded "locked position" or do then mean fully turn the rest to it's farthest point? It's pretty critical, and so you'd think they could have been a little more clear. At this point in time, I'm assuming they mean the pre-loaded trigger locked position, but I'm not absolutely sure. Because when you draw the bow back more, if you don't have the tie off rope correctly placed on the down cable, it can raid the rest point higher than the pre-locked position. Maybe someone who has done this can answer the question. I'd appreciate it.

Here's the instructions, and then I have a couple of things to discuss after that regarding the rope tie-off to the down cable.

Side 1:
Image


Side 2:
Image


In steps 12-16 on the 2nd page, this is where the rest is "Auto Adjusted". First they have you a full 3" below the shelf, which seems a long run of rope. When you get done doing this and the bow is at rest, that rope sticks out quite a ways, and seems like you could easily catch it on a tree branch when crawling around in the brush. Just my opinion...it doesn't make me right, but it seems to me you could shorten that length up if you wanted. What you don't want to do is be up near where your serving could rub at the crossing point of the up/down cables. That would be too high.

Finally, they instruct you to put the bow in a press and split the cable, and then fray and burn the end (make a dome shaped end). Well everyone doesn't have a press! Also it's easier said than done making that dome, and if you don't get it right, the rope can feasibly pull right through your string if you catch it on something.

I prefer Trophy Ridges method on their website for drop-away rests, which uses a cow-hitch knot. See below. That method seems better, but again...just my opinion.

Image


This thread is not a bash in any way. I think that for the price, this is an amazing design, and should go a long way for those who don't want to spend $100-$200 dollars for a decent arrow rest.

BTW, here's the url links to the instruction pics:
Side 1:
http://home.comcast.net/~EbayAuction1/TrophyRidgeRevolutionInstr-1.jpg
Side 2:
http://home.comcast.net/~EbayAuction1/TrophyRidgeRevolutionInstr-2.jpg

Hope this helps
TozerBGood
 
#2 ·
Im going to admit I didnt NOT read your whole post.

I have set up 4 of them so far and I have been SUPER happy with them, and so have customers. They work great for a $50 rest. My only complaint is that they dont have enough left adjustment on a right-handed bow. I have heard they are working on fixing this.

I set a buddies bow up with this rest at work and he was/is shooting FOB'S. I set the rest up according to the directions and I was getting contact. Believe me, you know when you get contact with FOB'S. I just had to loosen the activation cord a little and its now shooting a 4 blade magnus stinger out to 50 yards with field points.

So far, im impressed to say the least. IF you set them up correctly.
 
#4 ·
Here's another question. I have installed the rest on the bow, and adjusted the up down so the arrow on the rest and nocked, is parallel with the arrow on the shelf (steps 6-8). I auto-adjusted the length of the revolution rope taunt attached to the down cable by drawing the bow back (step 14) and pulled back 1/4" and cut-n-frayed and burnt a dome onto the end (step 15).

Then I shot the bow with a fletch arrow and with a bareshaft arrow.

The fletch arrow makes a fairly load crack noise when shooting it, and the bareshaft arrow doesn't. Does anyone have a clue what is wrong?

Furthermore, the rest stays in the cocked position when shooting the bareshaft. :confused: Would appreciate any help here.
 
#5 ·
I skipped steps 6-8 what I did was nock an arrow pushed the rest to the upmost locked position as it would be at full draw eyeballed the arrow with the cable gaurd to get my nock height level then split cable put activation rope through cable drew the bow cut,frayed and burned activation rope and then served above it mine is shooting great no clearence issues at all the noise u are hearing is fletching contact the rest
Good luck
 
#6 ·
So I'm thinking I need to either lengthen the rope or perhaps my nocking point is not correctly aligned with the rest?

Any ideas why the rest doesn't un-trigger when shooting a bareshaft through it?
 
#8 ·
glad you got her figured out mine comes up in about the last inch of the arrow which is how i set up most of the drop aways i setup other than limbdriven ones it is a nice rest and is very accurate for me i have been shooting limb drivers for years but always like to try new stuff and the revolution will be on my hunting rig this fall
 
#9 ·
Well to be honest, I just did figure out what I was doing wrong, and it had very little to do with the point in the draw that the rest starts turning, or where I had the rope attached to the down cable. I feel like a complete idiot after I compared what I had done to the pics of the installed rest in the instructions and also looking at you-tube slo-mo videos. This followng pic explains what I was doing wrong.

Image


With other drop-away rests, (which didn't always have micro-adjust options), I had always been able to mount the rest at an angle if needed, and it made little difference to the arrow flight. I never gave it much thought with other style rests. It was just a gross adjustment for the up/down. Well you can't do that on this rest, because when the launcher turns, you want it perpendicular to the string when the bow is fully drawn back. If you don't that's when the fletched arrows would make a crack noise, and the bareshafts, don't trigger the lock release.

So that is another reason to get the micro-adjust version.

(I feel like a schmuck for not figuring it out sooner) :zip: On the other hand, Trophy Ridge should explain that in their instructions, for the complete idiot like me.

(I'm just glad I didn't break any arrows, and am surprised none of the fletchings came off)
 
#11 ·
One more question, are you single cam guys finding that you need an 1/8" high nock or is your nocking point completely parallel with the rest as the instructions say. The reason I ask is because QAD recommends it 1/8" high so what would the difference be.
 
#12 ·
For what it's worth...I don't know about single Cams, the Tribute is a Binary Cam. After the initial setup, and bareshaft tuning on my shooter at 15 yds, I had to raise the D-Loop about 8 or 10 twists (which is at least 1/8") in order to get the bareshafts and fletched to fly the same.
 
#14 ·
I am new to setting up my own bow, but figured there is no better way to get to know your bow than doing it yourself. Besides I can always pay someone to fix what I screw up. Anyway, I was setting up my rest last night and the thing I could not figure out was do you serve below and above the activation cord dome or just serve above it and depend on the dome to keep it from pulling thru the down cable? Please advise. Thanks
 
#15 ·
Mine is served on the downward cable.
 
#16 ·
Yes I understand that it should be on the downward cable, is there serving above and below the activation cord or is the cord just stuck in between the split cabel and no servingbelow that point? I hope I am being clear. Thanks
 
#19 ·
Just as it says in the instructions (which I showed in post #1 of this thread), You tie one inch of serving on the down cable. Then below the serving, you split the string and run the rope through (below your serving). Then you fray the end, and use a lighter to melt and make a dome on the end of the rope. You don't need to serve below the rope.

If you don't want to split the string, you can use a cow hitch below your serving (which I also showed in post #1 of this thread).

Here's a pic of mine...I didn't start my serving 3" below the shelf like the TR instructions said. Didn't see the need to have all that extra rope which could catch on a branch in the brush. Note that my serving starts below where the x crossing of the up/down cables. You don't want your serving up that high where it could rub against the up cable. Hope it helps.

Image
 
#22 ·
Suppose not, as long as it doesn't rub on the up cable, and the screws don't loosen, or doesn't hurt the cable. I've never tried that though. It's not hard serving the string, and melting the end of a rope. If you don't have a press, using a string splitter is the next best option, or tying a half hitch.
 
#24 ·
This rest is like setting up a QAD basically. Like tozer said it does have to parallel with the riser and the self to work right.

I stuck the cord threw the downward cable and then drew the bow back. Then I marked where I wanted the burned end to be. I cut it and burned it 1/8th past where it was marked. Then served one inch above. Finished.
 
#28 ·
Yeah, I thought I posted the link earlier, but couldn't find it. Here it is now. LINK

It was an idea by Beasmaster, and lots of people have made their own mechanical shooters for a heckuva lot cheaper (approx $160-$175) than they could buy from Spot Hogg.
 
#29 ·
NICE.

Looks awesome. I even have a worm gear winch, turnbuckle, and other items to make a draw board but I may have to upgrade my design and get the stand. Now, I just need to finish scanning the 22 pages on that thread. Wow.

AT rocks.
 
#31 ·
It works great for bareshaft tuning (adjusting rest, D-Loop, or if you want to monkey with cam lean to get center shot point on rest).

But IMO, it's not as consistent as a Spot Hogg Hooter Shooter. I think it has to do with the not having a slide that the release is mounted on so you don't get as consistent results. I've tried different bow holder designs also, and ended up just using my leftovers of composite deck boards which I can shape on the spindle sander.

I also built a home made adjustable laser sighting mount, to see if it would help consistency. It has some benefits, in making sure you're aimed at the target correctly prior to triggering the arrow release on the shooter.

Image


Here's some pics of how I did my bow mount (with composite decking).
It works for all my bows (Destroyer, X-Force, Katera-XL) and I have had other people's bows on it as well.
Image

Image

Image

Image


Of course the shooter makes a decent draw board as well. But I also have a draw board located right above my press.

Image
 
#30 ·
When I set mine up I set the rest up so that the arrow was level at the full draw position (the rest has a little bit of play after the rest has entered the locked containment position). very easy rest to set up. not a whole lot different than setting up other drop away rests. I had my buddy check drop cord tension for me because I don't have a draw board, but I didn't have to fiddle with anything after I served the string in.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Hi TozerBGood,

This is a hijack, but only slightly. I have read your TR Revolution thread - this one about setting it up. Thanks for it, it's a good thread and I appreciate your notes in it.

I have the regular (non-micro) TR Revolution. I have it on a 2010 Carbon Matrix. It is my first 'tying the cord in' rest, previously I have shot Whiskers or the Octane Hostage.

I have a specific problem with mine - right from the packet the TR Revolution seems to be locked in the 'firing' position, with both arms horizontal, and ready to revolve forward upon the shot. But I cannot set the revolving barrel off, and I am hesitating in tying in the cord to the 'down' cable, when I am not sure if the rest will go off, upon shooting. The arms appear locked in position.

Any ideas?

I have none, I have tried all I can. This is especially frustrating, given the many 'gee whiz, this rest is easy to set up'. I haven't found that.

EDIT: I keep expecting to push something, and have the rest go 'pop' and rotate. Like there is a button or screw which is engaging, and preventing rotation. If so, so far I have not found it.

-Your experience-

Have you ever had this problem? Know anyone who has? I have ready every thread on the TR Revolution that I can find, and am becoming convinced it's a problem with this particular rest, and not often repeated.
 
#33 ·
I like the rest, I have only one complaint with it. The rest likes to pop open. Chasing around javelina last week I had to reset The rest every time I bumped my arrow on a twig. it is definitely not my arrow rest of choice for a Western spot and stalk hunt.
 
#34 ·
same question here. I set mine up last night and haven't shot it yet but am wondering if it will in fact open upon release of an arrow. it will open if you twist it kinda hard but it seems like that might not be good for it. does it just need to be going a super high speed to open correctly (as in when an arrow is launched)? thanks.
 
#35 ·
I just bought this rest. So far the set up seemed pretty easy,except for the part of splitting the bus cable and attaching the release cable of the rest. I had my pro shop set that up. After a few shots, I noticed that the fletchings were making contact with the back side of the front of the rest. Can any one tell me how to correct for this? Hoyt Maxxis 31, Carbon Express Blue Streak 250 @ 30" wi Blazer fletchings...