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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a .25, 6x, True Spot. My DL is 31.5". Sight to peep is 34.5"

Questrions:-
1. a.Which clarifier is ideal? b.How is the choice of clarifier determined?

2. a.What is the advantage or disadvantage of using a 3/8" true spot lens as opposed to the .25 (1/4)? b. Which clarifier?
 

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BlackArcher said:
I have a .25, 6x, True Spot. My DL is 31.5". Sight to peep is 34.5"

Questrions:-
1. a.Which clarifier is ideal? b.How is the choice of clarifier determined.

2. a.What is the advantage or disadvantage of using a 3/8" true spot lens as opposed to the .25 (1/4)
b. Which clarifier...
There are three clarifier strengths.

Mild
Medium
Strong

Mild usually works for up to 4X lenses

Medium usually works for up to 6X lenses

Strong usually is required for the 8X lens.

It depends on your vision.

A 6X lens will give you a blurry view of the target face
without a clarifier, kinda like holding a magnifying glass
too far away from the piece of paper you are trying to read.

I have a peep radius of over 39-inches (11-inch sight bar plus extender)
and I use the medium strength clarifier and it works for me.

The 1/4-inch True Spot shows a smaller view
and the 3/8th-inch True Spot shows a larger view.

So, do you want to see just the x-ring

or

do you want to see more than just the x-ring?
 

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Bear in mind as well that the clarifier will slightly reduce the amount of light to the eye so in lower light conditions (i.e. some national, sectional or state venues held in large gyms or exhibition halls) you may have problems seeing the "x" itself. Maybe not quite as much an issue on the NFAA blue/white target faces which have a large "x" in the center, but possibly a problem on the Vegas face where the "x" and the scoring rings themselves are very fine.

Everyone's eyes see things differently. That said, I've played with a friend's Tru-Spot a couple times and he had the 6x, 3/8" I believe and I found I did not need a clarifier. The 3/8" just circled the white or yellow on the NFAA and Vegas faces respectively. Most I know using this lens system are circling the entire bullseye - see less movement and execute cleaner shots that way which then tend to also hit the center more frequently.

Few additional thoughts/ideas...........:)

>>--------->
 

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BlackArcher said:
I have a .25, 6x, True Spot. My DL is 31.5". Sight to peep is 34.5"

Questrions:-
1. a.Which clarifier is ideal? b.How is the choice of clarifier determined?

2. a.What is the advantage or disadvantage of using a 3/8" true spot lens as opposed to the .25 (1/4)? b. Which clarifier?
Black Archery:

I forgot to mention one other thing.

The peep sight radius determines the degree of magnification.

You have a rather long DL,
and your peep sight radius is significant at 34.5"

I am only shooting a 29.6" DL right now,
but I have a monster sight extension arm on my CJ EVO II sight,
and I use the 4th axis plate by archerytech.com so I get tremendous magnification with my 39-inch peep sight radius, plus I wear glasses.

With greater magnification (longer peep sight radius), you also get greater distortion.

The True Spot website has a chart that tells you what diopter correction you will need assuming 20/20 vision and for a given peep sight radius.
 

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Ok, the use of a clarifier is a personal thing. So, if you know what clarifier you are using with 6X now, it should be the same for the true-spot scope.

The view of the grind is also depend on the clarifier and the sight radius. If you keep it close to the riser then the spots magnification will be lower than if you move it away.

I have been mainly using 3/8-4X grind. I tried a 1/4-6x and didn't like it. Another style of lens I have been using is a X-lens by BriteSite. Now, this is a 4X lens with a 3/8" clear center section. The rest of the lens has been frosted so you can't see through it. It sounds hard to use, but hasn't been to date. You simply come down over the target you want to shoot and then find the center. It seems to added more of a concentration factor for me.

Now, as soon as I get time, I many try the same thing with a straight 6X lens. I will to cut like a sheet of frosted mylar on one side and then clamp it to the back of the lens. I haven't done it yet, I can't quite figure away to cut the hole neatly, but I will find a way.

Also, it depends on what you want to see. On the NFAA target many people could zoom in enough to center the X. But, I like to concentrate on the X and have the white boarding the true-spot so I can see a little blue ring around. There is also some distortion at the edges, which is not the case with BriteSite's Twin-View. On the Vegas target or 18M FITA Target there is just not enough concentration factor on the center rings. I do not see them at all. I much prefer to center the gold and concentrate on the its center.

Many people consider these as only indoor lenses, but they can be quite effective against any round target. I recently completed a FITA shoot at 90M with a 3/8-4X grind. Would the 6X have been better? You still have a lot of movement, that is not going to change much from a true-spot to a 6X straight. I really don't know. Again, with magnification, I think this is a personal thing. I seem to develop problems with too much magnification. I guess, I am not steady enough.


http://www.britesitetuner.com/

To add a little bit more frustration to you equation. Britesite makes some lenses call the Twin-View for his scopes and these are two separate lenses which might be better than the True-spot. I love his housings, I currently use a Vegas Top Gun. The neat part is his level adjustment for the third axis. I like the frosted, translucent, plastic housing for its light weigh; the translucent body is great for indoor/ outdoor shooting;; and the the level in close proximity to the center of the scope .
 

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To add to all of this - there are different aperture sizes inside clarifier strenght. My suggestion would be to purchase 1/16'' #3 Clarifier and see if you need to work your way down/up from there - both in terms of aperture size and clarifier strength.
I currently use 3/64'' (the 2nd smallest) and #3 SA clarifier with 8X power, and eye-to-scope distance is around 30''.
 

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nuts&bolts said:
Black Archery:

I am only shooting a 29.6" DL right now,
but I have a monster sight extension arm on my CJ EVO II sight,
and I use the 4th axis plate by archerytech.com so I get tremendous magnification with my 39-inch peep sight radius, plus I wear glasses.
Good grief, OK, the next question is, do you use a 1/16th dia peep or a 3" scope on that puppy?:ROFLMAO:

One other think, I might mention. I have been buying True-spot lenses from Michigander. If you want a True-spot to fit you existng housing, you can get it. Jerry, can order them if you know the specific lens diameter. Not, all 1-3/4" scopes use 1.75" lenses. An extreme for example is 1-3/4" to the outside of the housing. A Bulleye is 1-3/4" on the inside.
 

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Deezlin said:
Good grief, OK, the next question is, do you use a 1/16th dia peep or a 3" scope on that puppy?:ROFLMAO:

One other think, I might mention. I have been buying True-spot lenses from Michigander. If you want a True-spot to fit you existng housing, you can get it. Jerry, can order them if you know the specific lens diameter. Not, all 1-3/4" scopes use 1.75" lenses. An extreme for example is 1-3/4" to the outside of the housing. A Bulleye is 1-3/4" on the inside.
Just turned 45.

If I'm tired, then the medium strength clarifier is not strong enough,
and I just have to accept the blurry image. Just bought a strong clarifier to see if that helps.

On a good day, the medium strength clarifier works.

You're right about the reduction in light transmission.
If I use my homemade scope shade,
and I'm shooting in the shadows, I can't see a blasted thing.

So, I just bought some Fitz Fiber Optic
and I'm going to try to make a home made version of the LP light.

May have to just sucumb and buy the real thing. Saw a picture of JAVI's and drtnshtr's sights with the LP light. Truly a thing of beauty.

With a 39-inch sight radius,
sure does blow up the image of the intersection of the x-ring.

Now, if I could only hit that a little more often.

Working on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
BlackArcher said:
I have a .25, 6x, True Spot. My DL is 31.5". Sight to peep is 34.5"

Questrions:-
1. a.Which clarifier is ideal? b.How is the choice of clarifier determined?

2. a.What is the advantage or disadvantage of using a 3/8" true spot lens as opposed to the .25 (1/4)? b. Which clarifier?
Guys this is some of the best info I have received thus far...
So that you know, I tried your search on the subject, and found nothing of substance...

The next guy will find this helpful...


Nuts: I want to See the X ring..
Based on your suggestion I think I may want to see as little as possible and focus more on the X..more..(.25 it is)
Now I holds pretty steady but 8X sounds like settling problems..

CHpro: 3/8" no clarifier circle the ring and forget about the "X". Line up the circles...Hmnnn Thas a thought....

Deez:http://www.britesitetuner.com/ I will check it out.

DaDo: I currently use 1/16"th peep. that is comfortable for me.

Big Thanks....
 
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