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I'm sure this has been talked about many times, but I recently picked up a TRX7 after many years away from Mathews.

I'm looking to get a detailed tuning process for these bows, if anybody has some notes or any specific threads to check out I would greatly appreciate it. TIA

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The TRX is probably the easiest bow I've ever had to tune. I've spent hours tuning the TRX just playing around with it. String changes are very easy as well. Here's what I've done to get the best results.

1) set the nock point dead center between the axles. Measure ATA and set it right in the middle usually around 20"

2) Time the cams dead even, no need to have the top hitting first like some people have done in the past

3) Twist the bottom of the string only to adjust the peep

Mine is dead in spec at 40", 7" BH, 60# peak and 19lbs holding weight. The top hat kit is awesome for adjusting for right and left tears. I set the centershot at 3/4" and change top hats until I'm close to a bullet hole. My center shot is within 1/8" of 3/4" and rarely have I had to move the rest during walk back tuning. The stiffer the shaft the more you'll have to shim the cams.

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The TRX is probably the easiest bow I've ever had to tune. I've spent hours tuning the TRX just playing around with it. String changes are very easy as well. Here's what I've done to get the best results.

1) set the nock point dead center between the axles. Measure ATA and set it right in the middle usually around 20"

2) Time the cams dead even, no need to have the top hitting first like some people have done in the past

3) Twist the bottom of the string only to adjust the peep

Mine is dead in spec at 40", 7" BH, 60# peak and 19lbs holding weight. The top hat kit is awesome for adjusting for right and left tears. I set the centershot at 3/4" and change top hats until I'm close to a bullet hole. My center shot is within 1/8" of 3/4" and rarely have I had to move the rest during walk back tuning. The stiffer the shaft the more you'll have to shim the cams.

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So, follow up questions, realizing this is an aged post.

1) center nock point means what for the arrow as it relates to the Berger hole? Or, irrelevant if you go 90degrees from center?

2) they like a slightly weaker spine?


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So, follow up questions, realizing this is an aged post.

1) center nock point means what for the arrow as it relates to the Berger hole? Or, irrelevant if you go 90degrees from center?

2) they like a slightly weaker spine?


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1) measure the axle to axle. It should be around 40" so therefore your nock point should be around 20" so dead center in the middle of the string. My bow tuned best at 19 15/16" center shot. It tended to favor the upper portion of the Berger hole but

2) That depends on your tophats. I run stiff arrows. I set my rest at factory recommended and move the top hats until I get a good left/right tear. My x cutters (250 spine) with 140g points fly great out to 80 yards. My Triple x's with 300g points fly great indoor and I can leave the bow tuned for my Xcutters!


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1) measure the axle to axle. It should be around 40" so therefore your nock point should be around 20" so dead center in the middle of the string. My bow tuned best at 19 15/16" center shot. It tended to favor the upper portion of the Berger hole but

2) That depends on your tophats. I run stiff arrows. I set my rest at factory recommended and move the top hats until I get a good left/right tear. My x cutters (250 spine) with 140g points fly great out to 80 yards. My Triple x's with 300g points fly great indoor and I can leave the bow tuned for my Xcutters!


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Thanks. Makes sense since the string payout is symmetrical on the Crosscentric design. I am playing with .375 spine SuperDrive 23s at the moment and liking what I see but need to change my rest (AAE Pro Blade) over to my Hamskea target to mess with different vane configurations.


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