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Discussion Starter #1
Ok Guys, I've come here because I know this is where to get the best advice. I have an 06 Trykon that I would like to tune. The bow is shooting ok but I've had it for a couple years and want to tune it up. I just put a hogg-it on it and can not get enough left adjustment...centershot? The dealer had to set the rest to the far left when I bought it to get it to shoot bullet holes. What do I need to do to get everything in line to work with this sight. Also what do I need to do to tune it to the best I can get out of? Drawstop tuning, etc...Also I don't have a paper set up to shoot through and can only get 25 yrds in the backyard...kind of limited there.

Here is the bow set up
06 Trykon
dw 64#
dl 28"
Gold tip 5575 with 100gr fieldpoint
TR dropzone

Any help would be great,
Eric
 

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Grumpy Old Man
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Well, here's what I did with my '06 Trykon .....

....get rid of the original factory string/cables before you do anything else.
....set the centershot up at dead center where it should be.
....eliminated the cam lean problem that was causing my right tears in the paper.
....shot one arrow through paper to check the centershot after these steps (good hole), then I didn't waste any more time shooting through paper.
....tuned for groups after that.

In my opinion cam lean was a major problem on a lot of the early Trykon's. They were a very popular bow in my area when they first came out, and there were a lot of right tear issues.....one dealer in the area chose the route of moving the cenetershot way out, another chose to make the floating yoke static and take out the cam lean (which I did with my bow). This seemed to eliminate the right tears through paper.

Once I got good string/cables on there and got rid of the cam lean, my Trykon became one of the best shooting bows I have ever owned....:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks rcl.....new strings was a thought..I will probably order some the first of the week. I would like to keep the floating yoke. I haven't noticed cam lean but I haven't looked for it either. If that is a problem can it be tuned out without serving the yoke. What strings would you guys recomend... I was thinking vapor trails
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
very little cam lean

Just checked the cams....They seemed pretty good. The top may have had a very small amount but it seemed very negligable(sp?). Still think strings are a good Idea. I guess I'll start by trying resetting the center shot. Can anyone tell me on the trykon where that should be....or just inline with the string?
Thanks
Eric
 

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Vapor trails is a great choice. You do need to stick with a non floating yoke to control the top cam. Even though you don't see much lean, it is there at full draw. That is way the centershot is out too far. You can make a temporary paper tuner to shoot through which I highly reccommend. This will help you tune you bow and your shooting form as well. Some people think paper tuning is a waste of time, but I believe it is a very effective tuning method. Your draw stop has tow positions, one for 65% letoff and the other for 75%. I prefer the 75%.
 

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Can I get a detailed description of a floating yoke vs. a static or non-floating yoke? I'm pretty sure that a non-static would be served where the 2 cables meet and a floater would be the 2 cables just going through each other and being able to move.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=367762&d=1205271646

Is this a floater???

Reason I ask is my rest is way out to the right (left hand shooter) which would be the same as a right hander with the rest way out to the left. I can get a bullet hole through paper but only with my rest so far out that I too have no adjustment left in the sight.

I installed new strings, did the timing thing, tried many diiferent arrows (spine/length) and it does not matter--this thing stacks arrows with the rest way out there where it shoots bullets but I can't get my sight over far enough.

There is not any vane contact. What do you guys think???
 

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Discussion Starter #8
right tear

Checked Center shot it was about an inch from the face of the riser. Reset it to 3/4" as Javi posted somewhere else. Got a right tear. Moved the rest in a little still tearing.....not bad but would like to shoot bullets. I am afraid if I move it in any closer I'll start having contact issues. I am going to try it on the draw board today and check for lean at full draw. I also measured ata it was about 1/32 to long and b.h. was a little high too. I am going to order a new string set but would like to leave the floating yoke since that is how hoyt meant it to be....but If the only way to fix it to serve it then Ill do it.....any suggestions?. I know this has been covered alot with the trykons but this is the first bow I have really tuned. I would like to do it all on my own to learn if you know what I mean.
Thanks,
Eric
 

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Treestand Assassin
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Well, here's what I did with my '06 Trykon .....

....get rid of the original factory string/cables before you do anything else.
....set the centershot up at dead center where it should be.
....eliminated the cam lean problem that was causing my right tears in the paper.
....shot one arrow through paper to check the centershot after these steps (good hole), then I didn't waste any more time shooting through paper.
....tuned for groups after that.

In my opinion cam lean was a major problem on a lot of the early Trykon's. They were a very popular bow in my area when they first came out, and there were a lot of right tear issues.....one dealer in the area chose the route of moving the cenetershot way out, another chose to make the floating yoke static and take out the cam lean (which I did with my bow). This seemed to eliminate the right tears through paper.

Once I got good string/cables on there and got rid of the cam lean, my Trykon became one of the best shooting bows I have ever owned....:thumb:
This post is spot on.

Just to add. Your center shot should be exactly 7/8".
If you have a nock right tear u want to twist the right side of the yoke. To do a simple chech, lay an arrow on the top cam(quiver side of bow) and running parallell with the string. It should not touch the string or point away from the string at any point. This will get you really close to eliminating idler lean.
I just sold my Trykon and it was one of the best shooting bows I owned. For sure , get rid of the floating yoke.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
on the board

Checked the cams tonight with a good metal straight edge. Both cams seemed like they had a little lean but they were also consistant with each other.It didnt seem like much at all Going to order vapor trails tomorrow.....I'll order a static yoke then see what happens. I'll try center shot at 7/8". Archer58 where did you find that out from? Just experience or is it in a manual somewhere?
Thanks
 

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That's what my Trykon AND 2 others I set up centered at. 7/8" is the magic number w/ a static yoke.
The TOP cam is the only one to be concerned with. I'm not an engineer ,so I can't explain why bottom cam position doesn't matter, but it doesn't.
Again , the shaft on the top cam is a close check. Bare shaft paper tune is the best way to check the lean.
Remember, you are pulling the top cam into allignment by tuning the yoke. If you get a NOCK RIGHT tear, twist the right side yoke 1 twist (or even 1/2 a twist) at a time. ( or you can untwist the left side to get the same effect)

Since you are putting new strings and cables on the bow...don't forget to synchronize the cable stops FIRST.
 

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This post is spot on.

Just to add. Your center shot should be exactly 7/8".
If you have a nock right tear u want to twist the right side of the yoke. To do a simple chech, lay an arrow on the top cam(quiver side of bow) and running parallell with the string. It should not touch the string or point away from the string at any point. This will get you really close to eliminating idler lean.
I just sold my Trykon and it was one of the best shooting bows I owned. For sure , get rid of the floating yoke.

Can someone explain how cam lean can occur with a floating yoke.

Jim
 

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The floating yoke allows the top cam to lean w/ the angle of the string.
As the string is released there is nothing to dictate it's path as it travels toward the riser until it is at rest. A floating yoke causes a side to side travel. This is why center shots are so extreme. By using a static yoke the top cam is held in a vertical position to the bow and the string follows this path.

SOME guys can get good preformance w/ the floater. Most , I have found cannot. At least on the Trykon.
 

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So is it possible to just serve the string up tight to the yoke to make it a static? If so can someone post a picture??? I'm begining to think that this may be the cause of my issues. Just about ready to give up on this bow--:cry:
 

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This post is spot on.

Just to add. Your center shot should be exactly 7/8".
If you have a nock right tear u want to twist the right side of the yoke. To do a simple chech, lay an arrow on the top cam(quiver side of bow) and running parallell with the string. It should not touch the string or point away from the string at any point. This will get you really close to eliminating idler lean.
I just sold my Trykon and it was one of the best shooting bows I owned. For sure , get rid of the floating yoke.
every trykon I set up and tuned as a dealer wound up being right at 3/4" with a floating or static yoke just like hoyt reccomends as a starting point
 

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Discussion Starter #16
static yoke

ordered the new strings today hope to have them on soon will. I'm sure I have even more questions then. But thats what makes this such a great place.
 

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Hoyt uses a floating yoke because they are fool proof and semi-self adjusting. You can't really screw up a floating yoke. A static yoke must be installed correctly and isn't self adjusting. If you install a static yoke and twist one side way to much, it will cause problems. That is why hoyt doesn't use them. A static yoke is more precise and gives the user full control over cam lean. You can tie a floating yoke shut, but it needs to be tied tight to prevent any movement or slippage. I prefer a static yoke. It serves a better purpose. I use a spot-hogg laser for setting up the cams. I want to line the top cam so that it is in line with the bottom cam. The cams should line up with each other for better tunability and accuracy. Sometimes, if you correct the lean to what looks straight, you will not get them aligned. Adjust them for alignment.
 

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every trykon I set up and tuned as a dealer wound up being right at 3/4" with a floating or static yoke just like hoyt reccomends as a starting point
It's O.K. w/ field points, but you MAY not get it to tune w/ broadheads. I'm referring to same POI and not adjusting the sight to compensate for a right/left POI.
I have a buddy who was a pro shooter for Hoyt. He immediately removes the stock string and cable set up and replaces it w/ a static yoke system.
I can only give my expierence w/ the floating yoke system. On a BRAND NEW Trykon...it would not paper tune or bh tune until I eliminated the stock string/cables. JMHO and expierence.
 

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It's O.K. w/ field points, but you MAY not get it to tune w/ broadheads. I'm referring to same POI and not adjusting the sight to compensate for a right/left POI.
I have a buddy who was a pro shooter for Hoyt. He immediately removes the stock string and cable set up and replaces it w/ a static yoke system.
I can only give my expierence w/ the floating yoke system. On a BRAND NEW Trykon...it would not paper tune or bh tune until I eliminated the stock string/cables. JMHO and expierence.
I also replace the stock strings[ without the floating yoke] on my bows before I ever shoot or tune and my trykon shot fp and bh same poi and mine was set dead nuts on 3/4
 

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Discussion Starter #20
new strings

Ok got the new strings on there. I then tried draw stop tuning according to Javi's post. I just could not get it where the top cam was coming off flat:confused:I tried twisting every which way on the buss and control Finaly stopped because I was too tired to keep pulling the bow back. So I took the strings and cables back off, laid them on a tape measure and twisted them back to measurment. What next, The bottom cam is between the performance marks. I'm goning to try to paper tune it this morning. Should I just skip the draw stop tuning?

Thanks
Eric
 
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