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Discussion Starter #1
I have been working on tuning my prime alloy, and have been fighting fletching contact. After doing walk back tuning i ended up with the center shot tuned, i thought, then I noticed the fletchings were touching the cables and the rest. On paper it was giving me low and right tears. The low was easy, moved the nock up, done deal. For left and right It seems to really want the cable guard loose and the rest close to the riser. Of i can get it tuned so the arrow comes out straight, the fletchings may clear the cables but its gonna be tight, and i am shooting a fairly low prfile vane with the aae pro stealth. Any advice other than to get it shooting bullet holes then go from there?
 

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What rest? What arrow? Pictures. Improper set rest, nock may need turning and of course it could be you.
 

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Try PMing Ontarget7 he has tuned a lot of primes he will get you on the right track.
 

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I have no experience with a prime but if you are getting a right tare you need to move the rest to the left. Don't know if you are right or left handed that would make a difference in riser clearance. If it were me I would set my rest at 13/16 and tighten my flex guard up and start over. Are you shooting bare shaft or fletched through paper? I don't know how grip sensitive that bow is but make sure you are not torqueing the bow when you shoot. Pretty important. Like I said above Ontarget7(Shane) can get you on track. Him and others have helped a lot of us on AT. Don't give up its a process. One last thing when you do adjust something do it in small increments. Most of the time a little goes a long way. Hope this helps. Stay strong you will get it.
 

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My Alloy was / is super easy to tune. Double check centershot and berger hole first. If still an issue, next I'd move onto the flexis-ar. I tighten it all the way down and then back it off 3 turns or so to start. Pictures and more details will help, but Primes are generally very easy to get shooting straight.
 

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Sounds like you were moving things the wrong way. Right tear is fixed by moving the rest to the left.

This is where you were screwed up by "walkback tuning". "Walkback tuning" is nothing more than moving your rest until the arrows impact behind the pin. You could literally do the same thing by moving your sight, how it should be done. Walkback tuning is not tuning at all but rather just sighting in by moving your rest. If you don't believe me, next time you walkback tune, just move your sight a couple clicks at the further distance and then move back up close. You'll still hit the line up close and will now be hitting it further back as well.

You tune for the quality of the arrow flight, NOT for where the arrow impacts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To answer some questions...
Cx mayem 350 arrows 100 gr feild tips 28.5" draw, 60 lbs
Ripcord rest
Im right handed

When i get home tonight i will give ot another try and update the thread, i did get it pretty close.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, another question. How perfect of a hole am I looking for? Right now my nock is about 1/8-3/16" right of the tip of the arrow going through the paper?
 

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Sounds like you were moving things the wrong way. Right tear is fixed by moving the rest to the left.

This is where you were screwed up by "walkback tuning". "Walkback tuning" is nothing more than moving your rest until the arrows impact behind the pin. You could literally do the same thing by moving your sight, how it should be done. Walkback tuning is not tuning at all but rather just sighting in by moving your rest. If you don't believe me, next time you walkback tune, just move your sight a couple clicks at the further distance and then move back up close. You'll still hit the line up close and will now be hitting it further back as well.

You tune for the quality of the arrow flight, NOT for where the arrow impacts.
I agree with this 100%. I too was making the same mistake until guys like Huntinsker, N&B, and Ontarget7 got me straitened out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Wow, that was way easier tonight. I started over with the center of the arrow 13/16" from the riser and the flex gaurd a turn out from tight and it was close. Never touched the rest, just a little looser with the cable roller and it looks good, maybe took 8 shots total to get fletched arrows and bare shafts shooting bullet holes through paper.

What do you guys recommend to verify the flechings are clearing? I would think they sure are now but would like to verify it.

Ok, this business of curing a nock right tare by mooving the right left... i saw it, but it seems backwards. Anyone care to explain why?
 

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Wow, that was way easier tonight. I started over with the center of the arrow 13/16" from the riser and the flex gaurd a turn out from tight and it was close. Never touched the rest, just a little looser with the cable roller and it looks good, maybe took 8 shots total to get fletched arrows and bare shafts shooting bullet holes through paper.

What do you guys recommend to verify the flechings are clearing? I would think they sure are now but would like to verify it.

Ok, this business of curing a nock right tare by mooving the right left... i saw it, but it seems backwards. Anyone care to explain why?
Check for fletching clearance by running lipstick on the leading edge of the vanes. If they're hitting, it'll leave lipstick on whatever they're hitting.

Literally no one knows why or how moving the rest right to fix a nock left works. It just does. It's a dynamic process that happens to fast for us to see what's going on. Apparently no one with awesome high speed cameras cares to study it. We just know that it works. You can't think of it in a static sense or by what happens with the point end of the arrow. Best thing to remember is that when moving the rest, we move the nock end. So if it's a nock right, move the nock left by moving the rest left.
 

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The way Shane explained it was the tip weight of the arrow will always get in front of the string and the nock end of the arrow is guided by the rest. So to get a left tare nock lined up with the string and tip you have to move the rest to the right and vice versa for a right tare. That is how I understand it any way. I'm sure there is a physics theory to explain it but that is way above my intellectual understanding. LOL
 
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