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Discussion Starter #1
I was hoping for a bit of help on a Bowtech Prodigy. Timing marks were a bit off to start, and bottom cam was hitting before top. Never tuned a bowtech, so question is:

Do I twist or unwist the bottom cable to slow the bottom cam down?

Do I put same twists in other string or leave alone?

Do you work off top or bottom?

Do you forget about the timing marks or try to get them centered?

Was tinkered with quite a bit so if had to start over where would you start BH, # etc.

Unfortunately no access to draw board just buddies eyes and more than anything can feel it as I draw when out of synch.

Thanks!!
 

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Tagging this thread for later as I'm considering a Bowtech Prodigy myself. So this would come in handy.

On the same note, I would recommend buying a draw board or building one yourself (cheap to build). They are worth their weight in gold. Now that I have one along with a bow press, I don't know what I would do without.
 

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I was hoping for a bit of help on a Bowtech Prodigy. Timing marks were a bit off to start, and bottom cam was hitting before top. Never tuned a bowtech, so question is:

Do I twist or unwist the bottom cable to slow the bottom cam down?

Do I put same twists in other string or leave alone?

Do you work off top or bottom?

Do you forget about the timing marks or try to get them centered?

Was tinkered with quite a bit so if had to start over where would you start BH, # etc.

Unfortunately no access to draw board just buddies eyes and more than anything can feel it as I draw when out of synch.

Thanks!!
Time at full draw. The cam that hits the stop first, twist that cable. (The cable end that attaches to the cam, not the split harness)
 

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I was hoping for a bit of help on a Bowtech Prodigy. Timing marks were a bit off to start, and bottom cam was hitting before top. Never tuned a bowtech, so question is:

Do I twist or unwist the bottom cable to slow the bottom cam down?

Do I put same twists in other string or leave alone?

Do you work off top or bottom?

Do you forget about the timing marks or try to get them centered?

Was tinkered with quite a bit so if had to start over where would you start BH, # etc.

Unfortunately no access to draw board just buddies eyes and more than anything can feel it as I draw when out of synch.

Thanks!!
Here's my response on the other thread you started. "Put 1/2 or 1 full twist in both yoke legs on the other end of the cable that hooks to the top cam. (however much is needed to synch the stops) Don't worry too much about the timing dots as long as they are pretty close. You won't be able to synch the stops and have both cables perfectly centered in the timing dots." The reason I twist the yoke legs instead of the cam end of the cable is that you can cause serving separation where the cable goes around the bend, especially if you put a half twist in it. Try to visualize which way you're pulling (by twisting) or moving (by untwisting) the cam and that should tell you whether to twist or untwist and which way will be better to stay within or close to you timing marks. Normally, the only time I mess with the string, is if the timing marks are way off on both cables. You definitely need a draw board to synch your stops etc. (My home made one cost about $30) Do a search of "draw boards" for ideas. If you have to start over, get ATA and timing marks as close as you can by twisting/untwisting cables and string, Then synch your stops. Then watch this video. http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...=_w4AhqgFkFA&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_13761087479308
 

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Search for the thread "destroyer 350 tuned to perfection". It will tell you everything you need to know about tuning bowtech od binary cams. That being said I usually center the top cam on the timing marks and adjust the bottom to set the cam synch. Use the cable end for main adjustment and fine tune with half twists to the yokes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I have watched the video and started taking notes. Will head back to the range today. Here is what I have so far.

Tuning Bowtech
1. Cam Marks: If string is more towards the outer cam dot (away from riser)-then cam is too slow and needs to be advanced or shortened “moved towards the riser”. This is done by twisting the same control cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
2. Cam Marks: If string is more towards the inner cam dot-then cam is too fast and HITS FIRST or TOO SOON. Then needs to be moved back or “moved away from the riser”. This is done by UN-twisting the same control cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is the goal although from what Ive read it can be off just a bit and be OK.
Would you all do these things first THEN check ATA, BH and # again before moving to yolk tuning.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Forgot to ask:

Do you only work on each cam individually in regards to getting the cams timed (with marks) then synched at full draw.
Versus yolk tuning in which put equal twist in same side top and bottom (remove equal from opposite side top/bottom)
 

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Put it in a draw board and check sync of draw stops, you will not get both cables in the middle of the dots top and bottom and have draw stops hitting the same time. I always have 1 centered and the other ends up over a dot. As long as it's not way off your fine. Check stops in a draw board.
 

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Check ATA and if it's within 1/4" (will vary from one side to the other), then synch your stops, then yoke tune for bullet holes through paper. (I like to do this at about 5 yards)
 

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Those dots on the cams are just to get it close when putting new strings and stuff on. Start by getting both cables somewhere between the dots. Then check at full draw on the drawboard and get the stops hitting the same or the top a little ahead.
 

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Forgot to ask:

Do you only work on each cam individually in regards to getting the cams timed (with marks) then synched at full draw.
Versus yolk tuning in which put equal twist in same side top and bottom (remove equal from opposite side top/bottom)
If I'm following you, yes, you work on one cam at a time to synch stops. I like to twist on the yoke end of the cable to avoid causing serving separation where the cable goes around the bend, but make sure you don't twist that end with a half twist.
 

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Put it in a draw board and check sync of draw stops, you will not get both cables in the middle of the dots top and bottom and have draw stops hitting the same time. I always have 1 centered and the other ends up over a dot. As long as it's not way off your fine. Check stops in a draw board.
This is the way it will turn out. Reason is that you do not pull the string from the exact middle, you end up pulling from slightly above center so pulling a shorter portion from the top cam and longer from bottom cam.

You cannot sync this cam system reliably by eyeballing it. A drawboard is really the only way to get it done properly.

Also, you cannot get fine enough adjustments by putting a half twist in or out of a cable. Twisting the yoke legs will give you finer adjustment and get you to the point both cams in sync. Each adjustment you make will effect both cams. One cam more than the other, especially with the more gross adjustments you make.

Once you get it timed and synced, you will find that it was worth the time getting it there. Hope this helps.


In and For Christ,
Glen
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the help guys. Greatly appreciated.

So lets say I want to put a twist in the control portion of the cable (lower) cam to advance it quicker. Would it be the same thing to take the yolks and twist them one time from above (same string)?

I have heard that within a few shots that twist will work its way down and be the same as if you twisted the control at the bottom?

Just trying to figure out what I need to do on the lower cam, but make my adjustments at the top if need be to fine tune as alot of guys seem to say not to mess with the control cable with serving coming off etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So I got the sync down and feels great shooting it. ATA 32 3/16", BH @7 and #70. 27" with a 425 grain finished arrow. Peep and dloop.

Pro Chrono showed 270-272 consistently. I just want to make sure there is nothing else to check as speed seems slow but again, maybe is what it is.

Thanks
 

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10 fp's per 1" of DL and 10 fps for every 25 grains of arrow above 350 grains. ... 60 fps loss right there. Plenty of speed and great ke, shoot the bow and enjoy!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks JRH. Ironically just started a thread on this as you must have typed your response. I agree, wouldn't change a thing as far as how I like it, just trying to learn as much as can to fix any issues I may have missed. Good advice on the draw length and grain info. Thanks:)
 
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