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Hunter/Gatherer
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So if you paper tune. Then walkback tune. Then broadhead tune... What did you just do? You adjusted your rest paper tuning and got it right where it needed to be, then you walk back tune and now its moved again. Then you BH tune and now you have really moved it!

Anyone doing all this and still be shooting bullet holes through paper and getting straight up and down walkback tuning lines??? Thoughts?
 

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LOL!!
That would be insane.
I papertune, check with walkback, screw on a broadhead and its on. I find that on the papertune, its better if you use a back tension release. Once I get it papertuned, its never failed to fly a broadhead.
 

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So if you paper tune. Then walkback tune. Then broadhead tune... What did you just do? You adjusted your rest paper tuning and got it right where it needed to be, then you walk back tune and now its moved again. Then you BH tune and now you have really moved it!

Anyone doing all this and still be shooting bullet holes through paper and getting straight up and down walkback tuning lines??? Thoughts?
This is the exact question i have asked myself a thousand times.
 

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I only paper tune at 6' then at 20 yards and never have a problem broadhead to field point with a properly spined arrow.
 

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I really only use the paper to get it close and check nock height. Then walk back or bare shaft. Usually if the spine is correct I don't have to do much for broadheads. They usually are good after the walk back and bare shaft tuning.
 

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Each of the 3 steps you've listed gradually allow for finer and finer tuning. It's ok to skip one or two of these steps as long as they're one of the first two... ;)
 

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I paper tune because it is by far the fastest way to get close and can often save time when moving to the next steps. For the ten minutes it takes me to paper tune and get the bow close, it could save a lot of time (but then again, it might not, but I don't spend more than a few paper tuning so why not). Bare shaft tuning is great for fine tuning and generally my preferred method of doing the final tuning.

Broadhead tuning is a whole different ballgame as your setup may not shoot broadheads perfectly even though field points are flying great. Any tiny bit of planing or change in dynamic spine of your arrows or any other number of issues with broadheads can have dramatic results; thus you should always check your broadheads no matter what. If they are flying good with no changes, great! But they should always be checked!
 

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I don't really paper tune anymore, I walk back tune, group tune. This system works best for me:teeth:
 

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I'm a newbie; what is walk-back tuning and bare shaft tuning?
 

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Many people will claim paper tuning is over rated but I've found if I can get perfect bullet holes at varying distances from 3-20 feet, my walkback and broadheads will be right on. Walkback and broadhead tuning are just fine tuning the tune you got from paper tuning and you will usually find the tiny adjustments you make doing this will still give you bullet holes through paper.

People will claim you shouldn't worry about paper and you can get a good tune with a significant paper tear. DON'T BELIEVE THEM! If you're getting a tear through paper, something is off and you're broadheads aren't going to fly right until you get it right.
 

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I papertune, then shoot an awful lot of fieldtips and if I notice anything funny I look into it. Then when it comes time to shoot broadheads I just make sure they are consistant. Even if I have to move my sights slightly I don't care as long as every broadhead shoots to the same point of impact. I think it is a myth to a certain extent that it is possible to make them shoot to the exact same point of impact as the fieldtip even though sometimes mine do, and sometimes they don't. I think walkback tuning is kind of silly because I have never had a bow regardless of tune that shot further left or right the farther back you go unless your sights are not set correctly to begin with. So say you are sighted in 1" right at 20 yards, then it will be 3" at 60. Lastly, I see alot of archers trying walk back tuning who can't group 4" at twenty nor are they consistant from shot to shot so what good would that do them?
 

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Widewater Hunt Club
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I usually papertune just to set nock height. Then it's off for some walkback and group tuning. After that, if your spined correctly, there really won't be any further adjustments to my loop or rest. I spintest my hunting shafts with the broadheads installed to make sure they are true, and I'm set!
 

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I set up most bows with the arrow @ 90 degrees and the bottom of the shaft about 1/3 up the Berger holes. Then make sure my shaft..string...and stab hole kind of line up. I roughly sight in at 20. Then I walk back tune from there. 10-20-30. After that when I sight in up to 60 I may or may not have to adjust..but it does happen.
I do start with the bow "in spec" and even tiller.
 

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Did any body paper tune ten or fifteen years ago..... no ....... did anything get killed?
20 years or so ago, I was shown how to tune standing about 10ft from a target, and depending on which way the arrow was sticking out of the target, made adjustment's to the bow. So the idea was like paper tuning, just no paper.
 

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I'm a newbie; what is walk-back tuning and bare shaft tuning?
Good question. I'm not qualified to answer. Anybody??? Helping newbies is what this site is about.

(You might want to do a "Search" on here for walk back tuning.)
 

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Uhhhh...

I started papertuning in 1990.....it works.

There are a fair number of individuals that have a great deal of difficulty tuning a bow or are shooting bow/arrow combinations that are very difficlt to tune even with correct fundamental shooting mechanics.

Neither mean tuning is not useful...........

Did any body paper tune ten or fifteen years ago..... no ....... did anything get killed?
 
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