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As I read here at AT and talk with people about tuning my PSE Xforce, i keep learning about different adjustments I can make to my tuning. What I need to know now is, What is the order of tuning. Do I start with cam timing? Do I start with grouping arrows? What is the over all order of getting my bow tuned? I obviously don't work in a bow shop and i want to learn how to tinker with my bow. Can anyone lay out the big picture for me. Please help.
 

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I had a couple long talks with Dave Nowlin last week about a similar thing and he is most helpful. I think he has gone out fishing and will not be back for a week or so... so I'll chime in. Please anybody correct me if you see a mistake.

His priority, and now mine: (on binary cams), assuming your bow is allready setup with rest, sight.. and you are looking for a little extra.

1 - blueprint your strings... make sure they are in spec by measuring them under tension on a board and make sure they are the same and within spec, and do the same with the string. (measured from inside string loop on outside of pegs from loop to loop)

2 - make sure the draw length is correct (make sure you are measuring full draw + 1-1/4" from the back of your bow handle.) Step 1 should get the ATA about right, so tweak your DL and check poundage
-shortening cables will add to draw length, and increase poundage
-shortening string will lessen draw length, and lessen cam rotation

3 - timing... if your strings are within spec your ATA should be about right, and you got you draw length about right in step 1 & 2... so basically you adjust timing by:

aligning on your stops at close to full draw on a draw board:
- when you twist one cable you must untwist the other, else you affect ATA and DL... and you gotta play around with that until you like it.

I think if I follow this I will be on my way to bow Zen...but I'm not like crackers where I can pull it back and tell you whats wrong...still just a padawan myself..
 

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cam timing (correct cam rotational position with the bow at rest, per manufacturer's recommendations) (with the bow at full poundage)

axle to axle (while maintaining correct cam timing)

cam synchronization (twist appropriate cable until both cams hit their draw stops at exact same time when bow is at full draw)

cam lean (if possible) (twist one side of your buss cable yoke (if not a floating yoke) so cam is square or in line with string when at full draw)

nock height (place bow in vice and adjust so string is level vertically, nock arrow on string, and set arrow level or slightly nock high when nocked on string and arrow going through berger button hole)

center shot (have nocked arrow, on rest, square with riser on bow. I place an arrow shaft against the inside of riser, and adjust rest left or right until arrow on rest and arrow held against riser are parallel with each other)

I do this on every bow, and then fine tune by shooting.
 

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I'd like to make a small correctoin to SugarDaddy's post as well. Not sure I agree with that exact method, but that's why we post here, to get different opinions. The thing I would like to correct is that if you want to "make sure draw length is correct" the correct measurement is string to deepest part of grip, and add 1-3/4", not 1-1/4" (at full draw). (for what it's worth)
 

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I'd like to make a small correctoin to SugarDaddy's post as well. Not sure I agree with that exact method, but that's why we post here, to get different opinions. The thing I would like to correct is that if you want to "make sure draw length is correct" the correct measurement is string to deepest part of grip, and add 1-3/4", not 1-1/4" (at full draw). (for what it's worth)
good catch... thanks
 
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