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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pretty new to any sort of tuning other moving my rest and could use some help please. I got a ventum pro this year and kept playing around with the shim configurations, moving my rest, paper tuning, and shooting bare shaft and fletch. Every now and then I think I see the tail of my fletched arrows wobbling in flight. I get a more consistent group with my bare shafts than my fletch so guessing it’s fletching contact? I have a Mathews drop away on there.. tried powder and lipstick a few times but I can’t see anywhere it is hitting. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Plant Cloud Working animal Tree Sunlight

this is a group at 40. I shot one fletch then a bare shaft then a fletch then a bare shaft etc in case fatigue was an issue of consistency
 

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Man to shoot bareshafts at 40 like that is pretty impressive. Have you tried shooting your “up” vane out to get more clearance? Are there black streaks on the vanes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool! Hopefully that means I won’t have to do anything with the shims or rest again.
I have not tried vane out. That’s a great idea I will try tomorrow.
No black streaks that I can tell unless they are very light. I only fletched 4 out of a dozen and have put them all in the dirt a few times so they have light staining.
Would some face pressure cause this? I do feel the outer vane lightly on my chin/beard
 

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Pretty new to any sort of tuning other moving my rest and could use some help please. I got a ventum pro this year and kept playing around with the shim configurations, moving my rest, paper tuning, and shooting bare shaft and fletch. Every now and then I think I see the tail of my fletched arrows wobbling in flight. I get a more consistent group with my bare shafts than my fletch so guessing it’s fletching contact? I have a Mathews drop away on there.. tried powder and lipstick a few times but I can’t see anywhere it is hitting. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
View attachment 7631348
this is a group at 40. I shot one fletch then a bare shaft then a fletch then a bare shaft etc in case fatigue was an issue of consistency
The results aren't consistent enough to make adjustment imo. keep in mind that most tuning issues are actually your form, grip, torque, so you'll be chasing your tail forever. So at this point I'd maybe stop additional adjustments.

Those look like higher profile vanes, so it's certainly possible that you could be hitting the roller guard or similar as it's coming out of the bow. Rotate the nock so the arrow is less likely to make contact, or try some lower profile vanes.
 

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Dude....if you really shot those bareshafts at 40 yards, They are entering the target so straight, that bow is shooting laser beams. I can't hardly believe it. Anyway, if you have a drop away rest I bet it has something to do with the timing. If you hold you're bow out and look directly down the shaft of a nocked arrow you can usually see if one of the fletch is too close to cables. Some bows the arrow is getting kicked right, and look like they will clear when just viewed from the rear , but it gets kicked a little and hits. That is where the foot powder will tell you if its contacting. But...since you're bareshafts are flying that straight then the arrow is leaving the bow straight. So the contact ,if with cables should be visible if you look closely from behind sighting down the arrow. If its obvious you have clearance to the cables, riser, shelf, a part of the rest besides the launcher, then more than likely the rest launcher is not getting fully out of the way. Make sure your fletch is indexed so that one fletch is not past about 4 oclock or so when viewed from behind. If you hit a launcher very hard it will show marks on it and so will the fletch typically. This would be light contact with the launcher, if you do not see marks on the launcher or the fletch. You can go straight to powder, but usually I can figure it out just by being observant and common sense.
 

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Agree with the others, and you. Bare shaft group is so much better than fletched, it really seems like it's a fletching issue.
It very well could be contact with your face when anchored. Have someone take several pics of you while you are anchored, from several (safe) angles, so you can analyze. Perhaps just fletching them a bit further from the nock will help? I'd get some pics and go from there.
I doubt foot powder would be easy to use on all white vanes, but some red lipstick should really show well. Did you put lipstick on the very edges of the vanes and look at them closely?
I'm not familiar with a Mathews drop away, assume it is a cable driven. Does it come up fully at the very last 1" of draw? If the launcher arm is black, perhaps foot powder coating on the launcher and red lipstick on the vanes will quickly show if contact is occurring with the launcher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, thanks everyone for the replies. I think I need to spend more time with the powder. I actually only shot twice with powder because I didn’t have much and couldn’t tell anything was contacting.
Do I just cover all of the fletching

The lipstick I acquired is a dark red and maybe hard to see on black but I wiped everything after shooting several with my fingers and couldn’t find any contact either. I put it on all the outer edges of the vanes.

The drop away is cable driven and starts coming up several inches before full draw but I would say it’s fully up around 1-1 1/2” before full draw.

I actually don’t think I will have time to shoot tonight but definitely going to try all of these tips over the weekend. Thanks again!
 

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Spray the vanes/shaft with aerosol spray foot powder and check for contact. Don't rely on your own view of arrow flight. If you are watching arrow flight, you are not aiming or following through. Have someone else watch the flight. Your job is concentrating on a good shot.
Shoot through paper at 10 and 15 yards to check arrow flight.
 
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