[DGarner211]

I recently changed my rest and string and I think she’s dialed in pretty good right now. I walked back to 40 yards and I’m getting a nice straight line all the way back with field points.

I’m considering building some arrows soon. If I do, the centershot shouldn’t change, right? I understand broadheads might reveal flaws in the current setup, but presumably new shafts with field points should need a simple sight adjustment at best?

I will be going up a hair in spine because my draw weight is up.

 

[Diazonamide]

If you are changing spine, then things could change...not drastically though. All you should need are slight adjustments to the rest and sight since your changing the spine.

 

[DGarner211]

If you are changing spine, then things could change...not drastically though. All you should need are slight adjustments to the rest and sight since your changing the spine.

Thanks -- I wanted to be sure before I dialed in the sight. I'll walk it back before I mess with anything once the new arrows are done just to be sure.

 

[Tipe]

Always when U change something, start from 10 yards away from target.
U see changes easily there, adjust sight and go further away then.
If your arrow thickness changes then U need to tune it properly again.

I do this:
- Measure spine and assort arrows to usable and practice.
- Tune to bullet hole thru paper.
- make nock tune for every arrow thru paper so they are all correct bullet holes.
- Then fletching -> range and leave one arrow without vanes.
Shoot vertical and correct sight from 10m first,
Then go to 20m with bare shaft test and adjust if necessary.



I shoot sight marks to tape and vertical also to tape. When vertical is OK from 70m I shoot french tuning test.
I have 18-1 cube for french tuning close there to shoot line from 3m and 50m. When it's OK, bow is tuned.

I shoot 25m and 70m marks by shooting to horizontal tape. No need to concentrate vertical shot grouping or spot to shoot marks.
I use Archers Advantage's sighting 'cause it has worked pretty fine for my sight markings.

Then I shoot 5m, 10m, 20m, 30m, 40m and 50m just to verify AA's markings and maybe one "overlong" 90m or 80m just to check how it goes.
Usually they're pretty correct.

I have 2 horizonal tapes, thin for closer distances and thicker for +50m distances.
I search that 70m untill I hit 3-4 arrows into same level and small group.

This was my last 70m with new bow and I was aiming that ducktape.
Few clicks down and I was correct enough.




That's my arrow change/tune prosedure, maybe not for everyone but maybe I'm bit too pedantic with these arrows and I like to test/shoot so there's nothing wrong about that.. IMO :wink:

 

[The Phantom]

Shoot a bare shaft and see how well it is tuned.

 

[Padgett]

Sometimes you get lucky when shooting different arrows and the tune holds and sometimes you have to tune again. If you are wanting to switch then just do it and check the new arrows to see if the bow needs tuned.

Right now I am switching back and forth between 250 spine x cutters and my tiny 340 spine pierce platinums because I am shooting 3d and field stuff. Overall my arrow flight is pretty much perfect with both of them so other than changing the windage and sight needle I am not doing any tuning at all. My arrows weigh within 4 grains of each other which was my plan so I could use the same sight tape but I really didn't expect the arrow flight to be so solid with the two arrows.

 

[DGarner211]

Thanks to all. I'll walk it back when the arrows are built and I'll try to remember to report back my findings. Hopefully minor tweaks, if any.

I think my main lesson is I need to get those arrows purchased and built well before the season starts.