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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

I'm new to tuning my own bow and have been trying to wrap my mind around how to paper tune a bow correctly. If I need to make adjustments when paper tuning, should I be using the yoke system of my bow or making adjustments to the rest? I've seen recommendations about using the rest to adjust for a paper tune, but that seems counter-productive. If you're going to make all the adjustments with the rest, what's the point of getting the center shot dialed in first? I mean to say, if you make all the adjustments with the rest, wouldn't that put the center shot out of wack?

This was brought to my attention when I bought a new sight. I noticed that my sight had to be all the way to one side to get where I was aiming. I read some posts on this and they recommended checking the center shot. When I checked mine I noticed it was more that 1/4" out. When I first bought the bow, I put a few shots through the bow to get the initial stretch in the strings and took it to Cabelas to get it tuned. The center shot being out that far made me wonder if the Cabelas guy either didn't care or didn't know what he was doing. Either way, I've decided I should learn how to tune the bow myself instead of wondering someone else did it right.

One other thing, I've had my bow for a little over a year now. The manufacturer recommends the cables should fall between these marks on the cams for timing. I found that over the last year my strings stretched a bit, I had to add a few twists to the yokes to get the cams synchronized again. Now both cams hit the stops at the same time, but they the cable isn't centered between the marks on each side. Is this something to worry about?

Thanks for your help.
 

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(aka lug nut)
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49,615 Posts
Hey Guys,

I'm new to tuning my own bow and have been trying to wrap my mind around how to paper tune a bow correctly. If I need to make adjustments when paper tuning, should I be using the yoke system of my bow or making adjustments to the rest? I've seen recommendations about using the rest to adjust for a paper tune, but that seems counter-productive. If you're going to make all the adjustments with the rest, what's the point of getting the center shot dialed in first? I mean to say, if you make all the adjustments with the rest, wouldn't that put the center shot out of wack?

This was brought to my attention when I bought a new sight. I noticed that my sight had to be all the way to one side to get where I was aiming. I read some posts on this and they recommended checking the center shot. When I checked mine I noticed it was more that 1/4" out. When I first bought the bow, I put a few shots through the bow to get the initial stretch in the strings and took it to Cabelas to get it tuned. The center shot being out that far made me wonder if the Cabelas guy either didn't care or didn't know what he was doing. Either way, I've decided I should learn how to tune the bow myself instead of wondering someone else did it right.

One other thing, I've had my bow for a little over a year now. The manufacturer recommends the cables should fall between these marks on the cams for timing. I found that over the last year my strings stretched a bit, I had to add a few twists to the yokes to get the cams synchronized again. Now both cams hit the stops at the same time, but they the cable isn't centered between the marks on each side. Is this something to worry about?

Thanks for your help.
https://www.facebook.com/BowTechArchery/videos/vb.113945191970422/1786279241403667/?type=2&theater

Tim Gillingham video at the ATA, explaining how to paper tune, when to yoke tune to fix horizontal paper tears, and where to set the height of your d-loop to control leverage, and how to move arrow rest height, to fix vertical paper tears.
 

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I would use the yokes to assist string travel to get the best tune and try to leave the rest at the recommended centershot. That being said, if i get to the point where a 1/2 twist of a yoke is not precise enough, I will micro-adjust the rest to finish it off. The recommended centershot is just a starting point, and will not adversely affect your results if it is a little off.

As for your timing marks being off, once again, they are also a starting point. Let your results determine how you proceed. The best tune for you and your setup may entail cams being slightly out of tune.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I'll be sure to watch that video.

The recommended centershot is just a starting point, and will not adversely affect your results if it is a little off.
That's what I was thinking, the center shot being that far out seemed like something was off.

So with that out of the way, what do I do if adding yoke twist then puts lean on one of the cams? I read something about keeping that in line by adding a half twist to one side of the yoke and taking out a half twist on the other side. Is that something I should be doing?

Some of these adjustments seem like they might throw off other parts of the bow, I imagine you're just going for the best overall tune?
 

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(aka lug nut)
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Thanks for the replies. I'll be sure to watch that video.



That's what I was thinking, the center shot being that far out seemed like something was off.

So with that out of the way, what do I do if adding yoke twist then puts lean on one of the cams? I read something about keeping that in line by adding a half twist to one side of the yoke and taking out a half twist on the other side. Is that something I should be doing?

Some of these adjustments seem like they might throw off other parts of the bow, I imagine you're just going for the best overall tune?
Watch the facebook video, and you will see Tim Gillingham do the tweaks live, and you will see the results change from shot to shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow, that video was on point for tuning. My center shot is now dead nuts, was able to tune out a perfect bullet hole only using the yokes for left and right movement.

Thanks again for the help guys.
 
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