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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I have two Toelke bows that shoot a nice bareshaft at 20 yards. The issue: I draw 32" (shooting with a clicker, so I know I'm consistent) and both arrow setups sound very underspined. Dan Toelke says my setups are fine, but as the title says, I'm looking for a sanity check here, I've been working on tuning both bows for months.

Bow #1 Toelke SS recurve, 64" and [email protected]": Shoots a nice bareshaft 20+ yards with full length easton axis trads 340 spine with a gold tip stainless halfout (80 grains) and 250 grain point weight.

Bow #2 Toelke Whip longbow 66# and [email protected]": Shoots a nice bareshaft at 20+ yards with full length easton axis trads 600 spine with a gold tip stainless halfout (75 grains) and 175 grain point weight.

My hunting buddies (who shoot a lot of bows very well) say I'm crazy and waaay underspined. I'd agree with them, but I've shot bareshafts from 340-600 out of the longbow, and 260-340 out of the recurve. These arrows fly straightest. Any ideas what the heck is going on? Both bows are cut a hair past center line.

I should add that I filmed myself in slow motion and the 600's out of the longbow seem to flex an awful lot as they fly downrange, which is why I'm asking here.
 

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If you agree with them, then they're not stiff enough. The amount of flex is not an issue, but the flex to the right has to equal the flex to the left.

For me if the bare shafts impact with my fletched, I know they're flying straight under and most likely over. I'd put a broadhead on one and shoot it through paper at 12 feet and 12 yards. Then I know it's a done deal.

Bowmania
 

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Are you comparing the impact points between bare shafts and fletched? Shoot three of each in the same group and if your bare shafts are grouping with your fletched, you're good, regardless of what your friends recommend.

For a sanity check move back to twenty five or thirty yards and see if your bare shafts still group with fletched.

Keep in mind that tuning does what charts or recommendations can't do, account for your personal idiosyncrasies.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, I thought a 340 flew right from the 61 lb recurve. Went outside to verify and it is stiff! Dropped to a 400 spine with the same 330 grains up front and it flew great. I guess I just need to go with what works.
 

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I'd be a lil concerned that a 400 spined shaft drawn to 32" from a 61 pound stick bare shafted perfectly with 330 grains up front.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'd be a lil concerned that a 400 spined shaft drawn to 32" from a 61 pound stick bare shafted perfectly with 330 grains up front.
Well yeah, that's why I posted this. I'm curious if anyone has some experiences like this. The bareshafts aren't lying, it's just a very strange setup. I'm shooting them from 3-20 yards to make sure I'm not getting a false reading somewhere. And is it even possible to get a false stiff reaction? If so, how?
 

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Quit tuning and shoot your bow - with those arrows.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Along the lines of what Easykeeper said, if you're shooting ONLY bare shafts you have only HALF of the info you need in order to make good tuning decisions.

Check out this:

https://www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning

Followed by this:

https://www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/advanced-tuning
Thanks for the links, I have followed the O.L. Adcock school of thought in tuning, but from past experience I find I need my bareshafts to also impact reasonably straight in the target at 20 yards before my broadheads fly well. Anyways, yes I am comparing impact point with fletched, and even with broadheads at 20 yards. The tune seems good, it just strikes me that the arrows are dramatically under spined from all recommendations I ever see.
 

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I draw 32.5 pounds at 32 inches and use 600 spine arrows with 100 gr points. I would say the 600's are way too weak.

As far at the 340, I am not sure. We 32 inch guys are off the arrow spine charts. I shot 370 spine ACE from a compound, but never shot a bow as heavy, or shafts as stiff your #1 setup.

330 grains up front is a lot. Why not cut it down to 100 for kicks and see how the arrows fly. It you come up stiff then you have bracketed the problem.
 

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I’m shooting GT trad classics with the 80 grain in/outsert and 10 grain shock collar 340s from a [email protected] Toelke chinook. I’m pretty sure they’re cut to around 30. I’m using 150 grain tips, a 5” wrap and 4 fletch 2” feathers. I started with full length shafts with the wrap and feather vanes( fletch removed, just vanr attached), insert, collar and point weight I wanted and just shot the shaft removing a 1/4” at a time until flight looked perfect. Fletched them up and called it a day. Bares fly right with fletched as far as I shoot.

You may need a stiffer shaft with that high of a point weight. You could be getting false readings.
 

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I don't think anyone knows what causes a false reading. Or at least I've never seen it printed. I just got one and am playing to figure out why.

If you have bare, BH and field pts impacting in the same spot, with bares flying straight, I don't think there's much more to do. I find that if I have good impacts and a little bare shaft kick a couple of twists or untwists of string will straighten it out.

Just so I can sleep at night, I shoot my BH's through paper at 12 feet and 12 yards, but I'm not normal!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bowmania
 
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