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I've owned several compounds, and have never had the tuning problems I'm having with my Mathews. Don't get me wrong - I love the bow and have had a number of kills with it. Problem is, I need to adjust the sight for vertical just about every time I go out.

Other similar experiences, or is there something I need to know which is unique about tuning a Solocam?
 

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Lol, I couldn't help it. It sounds like it could be an inconsistent anchor, or maybe the strings are moving around on you. Do you have factory strings on the bow? Custom strings?
 

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If your in spec and the cam is timed correctly I'd suggest yoke tuning it. You can simply take an arrow and hold it on the idler wheel, that's the top wheel that's round. If the string and arrow run parallel with each other your at least close. Hope this helps.
 

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If your in spec and the cam is timed correctly I'd suggest yoke tuning it. You can simply take an arrow and hold it on the idler wheel, that's the top wheel that's round. If the string and arrow run parallel with each other your at least close. Hope this helps.
Did that. Guess I should mention I'm using a G5 Optix sight, and the thought has occurred that it may be the problem. I'm going to replace it with a Spot Hogg, and see how that works out.

And the string is custom, but has been pre-stretched, and the bow tuned after it was installed. (This problem has been recurring through three different strings now.)
 

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Yoke tuning is to fix lateral nock travel. You are struggling with vertical issues. Which Mathews bow is it? Have you shot through paper or shot with bare shafts? If so, what were the results?
 

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You are describing the main issue single / solo cams have; vertical nock travel issues. A single cam means no syncing right - but if the cam rotation is not entirely right you might end up getting this kind of issues.

Granted, the cables actually stay put. I've owned 5 solocams and 7 sets of zebra baracuda strings, of which 3 where actually good for more than 1 year. As per usual, stock strings are just not that good...

In the end, the nock position, rest height and cam rotation determine how much vertical travel you have. Given you have a longer string, that default 1.5% max stretch length is simply longer... If you have as little as 1/64" movement in your nock position, you'll have a different PoI, depending on how neutral your rest is and what the starting position of the cam is.
 

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Which bow?
How much vertical variation? At what distance?
Draw weight, Draw length?
Arrow spine, Arrow length, Tip Weight?
Give us some more details.

In my experience bows are a whole lot more consistent than shooters.
 

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I've owned several compounds, and have never had the tuning problems I'm having with my Mathews. Don't get me wrong - I love the bow and have had a number of kills with it. Problem is, I need to adjust the sight for vertical just about every time I go out.

Other similar experiences, or is there something I need to know which is unique about tuning a Solocam?
Hello AJ.

The SINGLE cam bow is NOT the easiest to keep in tune,
cuz the string is just SOOOOOOO LONG.

So,
if a bowstring has 1/10th of 1% of stretch...

no biggie when the string is say only 50-60 inches long.

SAME bowstring material,
and we have 1/10th of 1% of stretch,
but now the string is 90-inches long...

the SINGLE cam bow,
cuz of the SUPER DUPER LONG bowstring
is going to be a little more touchy.

GREAT.

A single cam has NOTHING to time,
cuz
well
there is only ONE metal thingy that is NOT ROUND.

GREAT.

So,
just grip it and rip it.

RIGHT?

WRONG.

THE LENGTH of the string has a MASSIVE effect on the STaRTING rotation position
of the METAL thingy on the BOTTOM AXLE.


BUT
BUt
BUT

a solocam cam is the EASIEST thing to SHOOT,
RIGHT???

CUZ,
well,
you HEARD that a SINGLE cam has ZERO TIMING ISSUES.

IT cannot GO OUT OF sync,
cannot have TIMING issues
cuz,
well,

there is ONLY ONE CAM.

Yup.
GREAT.

FORGET the lingo.

The SINGLE CAM is EXTREMELY sensitive to the CLOCK position of the REFERENCE point on the METAL THINGY on the bottom axle.

So,
let's NOT call it TIMING.

So,
let's NOT call it SYNC.

Let's just call it CAM STARTING ROTATION POSITION.

It matters.

Mathews Apex 7.

THE Apex 7 has two handy dandy,
NEAR impossible to see DIMPLES.



Sooo,
the APEX 7 solocam bow is NOT the easiest thing to shoot and tune.

EASY to shoot,
IF you keep the CAM STARTING ROTATION position
EXACTLY like I have it in the photo.

IT's a SOLO cam.

It cannot LOSE it's timing.
YEAH
YEAH.

90 - inch string.

If the string GROWS 1/10th of 1%...
the CAM STARTING rotation position
will CHANGE...

and then,
your groups will CHANGE in VERTICAL SIZE.

You will have to ADJUST the VERTICAL sight pin position,
if your STRING changes in LENGTH
ANY AMOUNT....

cuz,
you get a NEW cam starting rotation position,
with ANY amount of CHANGE to the LENGTH of the bowstring (most likely...cuz it is SOOOOOOO long)
and
with ANY amount of CHANGE to the LENGTH of the buss cable (LESS likely, cuz the buss cable is much SHORTER).


BUT
BUT
BUT

how will I know
if the CAM STARTING rotation position CHANGED?

Simple.

IF the string stretches
the draw weight will go UP...

so
if you check draw weight
and the draw weight is CLIMBING....

your STRING is stretching
and you will need to ADJUST your SIGHT for VERTICAL...AGAIN.
 

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I've owned several compounds, and have never had the tuning problems I'm having with my Mathews. Don't get me wrong - I love the bow and have had a number of kills with it. Problem is, I need to adjust the sight for vertical just about every time I go out.

Other similar experiences, or is there something I need to know which is unique about tuning a Solocam?
Put your bow on the Kitchen Table.

Put a metal ruler PARALLEL to your bowstring.

Adjust your bow to shoot GREAT.

Now,
if you want,
make two dots on your cam,
say with a silver sharpie pen,
or any color you can see

and now you have TWO dimples
just like my Apex 7 cam....for REFERENCE purposes.

NOW,
you can eyeball
CAM STARTING rotation position
on YOUR solocam.
 

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You are describing the main issue single / solo cams have; vertical nock travel issues. A single cam means no syncing right - but if the cam rotation is not entirely right you might end up getting this kind of issues.

Granted, the cables actually stay put. I've owned 5 solocams and 7 sets of zebra baracuda strings, of which 3 where actually good for more than 1 year. As per usual, stock strings are just not that good...

In the end, the nock position, rest height and cam rotation determine how much vertical travel you have. Given you have a longer string, that default 1.5% max stretch length is simply longer... If you have as little as 1/64" movement in your nock position, you'll have a different PoI, depending on how neutral your rest is and what the starting position of the cam is.
this guy hit the problem.and to make it worse the nocking point is not centered on the srting or even close to it like a dual cam system would be.since the string in most cases is twice as long they also suffer from peep rotaion more than others.with all that said i still shoot my mathews drenalin better than any other bow i have had. you must take off that crappy zebra sting and get something with zero to no stretch.it dont help you live where the heat only adds to you trouble.
 

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Very well worded for a single cam set-up. If you play with the rotation of lower metal thingy, you can also get the nock height more level. most all solo cam bows i dealt with wanted to come in extremely nock high to tune. A little playing around with cam rotation can help some. You are trying to get equal string length on the draw cycle as the string pulls off lower cam and wraps around upper wheel then wraps back around metal thingy. very long string-you need good ones for it to stay tuned.
 

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Not buying it because of the sting length. Quality string and cable, properly tuned bow and you will make no more adjustments than any double, hybrid or cam half bow. the very same thing was said when they first came out with cam half and hybrid bows----- they needed readjustments all the time. Once strings and cables and bow materials improved into today's bows the problem is mostly gone. I'm thinking if you need to adjust your sight that much you had better first take a serious look at your form/anchor point.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, guys. At least I've got a few things to look at now. For the record, it's a Drenalin LD, and the string is custom pre-stretched. All distances from 15 yds. up have needed pin adjustment.

Agreed, those two holes are almost impossible to see, and even harder to figure out whether the cam is positioned correctly at starting point, but even so I plan to pay a lot more attention to that aspect now.

Thanks again.

AJ
 

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the biggest difference is in the nock point/ d loop set, must be much higher on a one cam to compensate for the excessive nock travel which plagues the cam system.
 

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the biggest difference is in the nock point/ d loop set, must be much higher on a one cam to compensate for the excessive nock travel which pagues the cam system.
Couldn't be farther from the truth, like your comments on crossbows.
 

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Dale, well then , tell us why every Mathews I see has the D Loop set 1/2-3/4" higher then twins and hybrids? For shooting over stumps? what?
 

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Ok , these are all possible but, it's highly unlikely that your string and or cables stretch
Every time you shoot. I've been at this pretty near 25 years. Now if your string and or cables
Stretch, then it will change poi. Now a bow will shoot the same place every time even know the
The rigging has moved . It WILL still out shoot the shooter.
It also will not be as forgiving and repeatable .
Start looking for other possible problems, mainly the archer.then at sight, then at possibility of peep moving. Just my 2 cents!!!
 
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