Ok now you have paper tuned!
It is not too early to be shooting broad heads i shoot broad heads year around.
Once i have my bow set up, and i shoot through paper and get a bullet hole.
Now take french tune!
I take a piece of white paper and draw me a line straight up and down from top to bottom in the middle of the paper. I tape this paper to my block target.
I back up to 10 yards and i shoot a field tip at the center of the paper you can actually drop you a dot in the middle of your line very small if you want so i shoot at that. I sight my bow in to hit that line in the center. Now once i am hitting that line with my field tip, now i shoot an arrow with my broadhead. Did your broad head hit same place? Lets say it did. Now walk back to 20 yard shoot the same dot with your field tip did it hit? Say it did, now we know your arrow is going to hit lower but is it still hitting with a field point and a broad head arrow at 30 and 40 yards if so you are good to go. If not if your field tip and your broad head start drifting to the right or to the left you need to either yoke tune if bow is setup with correct center shot. Or shim the cam, or now move the rest minor to correct the issuue.
I like to have a bow that shoots correct center shot and move the cams if i am able to make it shoot how i want it to shoot. However some bows you are limited on this you find out you cant shim or just move it to that exact spot so you fine tune with the rest to make that little adjustment needed.
I want my broad heads, field tips, and bare shaft to all hit within a 1/4 of an inch to a 1/16 of an inch that means they are practically touching if i cant do that at 50 yards i am happy. Ive had some bows best i could get was an inch or so and thats because of my shooting.