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<--- My first buck
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here it is; the “Unauthorized $5 Homemade Solid Limb Bow Press”.

One picture shows me drawing the bow to check the draw stop timing. I use a long J-hook attached through a 2x6 board which is part of a shelving unit. The J-hook is loose within the drilled hole so I can swivel the J-hook to flip the bow over while hooked. A lock-nut with washer on the back side of the board prevents the J-hook from coming loose. There is just enough room between the J-hook and the board to slip the bow string under to hook on.

Another picture shows the parts used for the Solid Limb bow press including:
• 2 short fat J-Bolts
• 2 hex-nuts to fit inside the limbs on the J-Bolts
• 2 wing-nuts to fit outside the limbs on the J-Bolts
• 4 metal rectangles heavy ¼” thick
o Coated in rubberized paint to avoid damage to the bow finish
o With center holes drilled to fit the J-Bolts
• A length of chain to reach between the J-Bolts

To use:
• Insert the two J-Bolts through the limbs and attach in this sequence
o Inside limb - J-Bolt, Nut, 1 flat metal rectangle
o Outside limb - 1 flat metal rectangle, wing-nut
• Use the J-hook on the shelving to partially draw the bow and hook the chain from one J-Bolt to the other (if no J-hook on shelving, a partner could draw the bow for you)
• Gently release the tension on the bow and the chain will hold the bow flexed enough to work on or remove the strings and cams.
• When done tinkering, just draw the bow, unhook the chain and gently release the drawn bow back to the J-hook

The third picture shows the assembled “press” on the bow being drawn to attach the chain.

I have used this on numerous different solid limb bows and I see no indication of any issues. In fact as compared with the bow presses in the shops I have used, this homemade press appears to only place a small fraction of the force on the limbs.

The parts are only about $5 in a hardware store, they take up very little space, and they can go with you into the field fitting in a tackle box.

Remember, this is not authorized or approved by anyone. All I know is it works, is extremely simple, and is a very quick inexpensive tool to use in tweaking the cables or replacing the string of your solid limb bow.
 

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I'd hate to see where that J hook would end up if it let go :)
Good ingenuity.... keep in mind that none of that hardware is truly rated....
I'd be concerned with that pot metal J hook having a flaw , although I'm done having kids ......
 

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Bowhemian
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8,311 Posts
As long as he's using good quality parts and they are carefully employed I'd say it's a neat, expedient way to get the job done.

Clever idea.
 

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Retired GI "still serv'n"
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Thats what I say.....would be O.K. for a kids bow but, I ain't putting a thousand dollar rig on that. :wink:
 

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Classifieds Administrator
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I like ingenuity but for some reason that screams "trip to the ER" to me.

Please be careful when you do use it.
 

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can you say DANGEROUS!
take the two falt pieces of metal with the j hooks and attach them to your bow hook a ratchet strap to the j hooks ,and it would be alot safer than what you have going on there!
 

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Not enough adjustability for me and would be to difficult to install on a 70 lb bow by myself, BUT, I do not see where you would think it dangerous. We are talking 70 lbs max for the most part. Those hardware hooks are mild steel, not pot metal.
Did you read what he posted? It is not a staple but a J bolt that goes through a 2 x 6 in the shelving. I would take my chances with that.

Improvement, put a turn buckle in it and use vinyl covered cable OR just buy a Bowmaster. Nice, cheap and easy.
 

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<--- My first buck
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1,209 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
In reply to the concerns about the $5 press I displayed:

The J-bolt through the shelving would easily hold up 500 pounds of dead weight before beginning to straighten and there is no way it will come through the 2 X 6 it is bolted through the 6-inch way. The only risk is if the string breaks and that can happen when pulling against the hook of a draw weight scale. The J-bolt is much stronger than the hook on a draw scale. How dangerous is that?

You don’t fully draw the bow to hook the chain. You only draw a few inches so there is really very little pressure. On the other hand, a second person could pull the string while the chain is attached and it could allow for field service that way. By the way, a 70 pound bow is no problem especially since you only draw a few inches.

There are a lot of guys out there with unlimited resources to buy high end bows and presses and just about everything else they want. On the other hand, there are po-boys out there that could benefit from something that works reliably and empowers them to do some of their own work without spending a bunch. It is for those guys that this is intended.

With this thing, you can change strings, tune cams, tie servings, install and serve a peep or string leaches, or serve in a drop rest cable. That is at least 90% of the work that is generally done to a bow.

I have been using this method for almost 6 months now on a variety of single limb bows. It seems to put very little pressure on anything. It is extremely easy and extremely fast to use. I like it and even if I had a $600 bow press, I would probably be more likely to use this for everyday tweaking because it is so quick and easy to press and release and re-press – a godsend for tuning hybrid cams. Certainly a “real” press is necessary for major work but this thing helps me and perhaps a few other guys.

Best Wishes.
 

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Not that much different from what PSE is using for their "Field kit"
for the X force series.

Same concept but it's a couple of S hooks on a cable that you slip into the cams at full draw.
 

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The length of the hook on the clamps (on the limbs) look long enough that when you have the chain attached and weighted the hooks are applying a torque to the limbs, not just pulling them together. I think that when I need to do work on my bow I will stick with my bowmaster
 
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