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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hope this is the right place to post this question? The last arrows I ordered came with Easton G-nock uni bushings. I did not ask for them, but that's how they send the shafts unless you tell them not too. So, I ordered a couple more dozen uni bushings for my future arrow building and some Bohning F nocks. Will I need to glue the bushings in, and if so, what type of glue is best? Thanks
 

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Yes, the bushings need to be glued in. Almost any glue will work, I prefer two part epoxy, but I've also used super glue. On my outdoor arrows where I'm likely to damage the bushings or pins I use hot melt so I can remove and replace them easily.
 

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Hot melt em

old school
 

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x2 on the plastic grocery bag.
I know the plastic bag works okay on pin nock bushings, but uni bushings usually have a much tighter nock to bushing fit. If you only wanted to change the nock wouldn't you end up pulling the bushing out too and have a good bushing that has a busted nock stuck in it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the comments! I bought some two part epoxy and some high impact gorilla super glue. I'll have to do some experimenting with the plastic, and see which method performs best for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the tips. I only hesitate to use heat on carbon arrows because I read on Easton's web site that you should never use hot glue on carbon. I asked a pro shop this question too. They said hot glue becomes brittle on carbon and heat should be avoided. I did hear that some epoxy and I think even super glues will release with some heat. We were talking about inserts, but they said to heat a field tip rather than shaft directly when trying to pull one out. I do know that a lot of people use the hot glue, so I guess it's just each person's preference.
 

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You can get away with a little heat on carbons but remember, the carbon matrix is “glued” together with an epoxy.
Epoxy dies quickly after 300 degrees F.
If you are using heat, heat only the insert (evenly) and test pull at regular, short intervals. I use a tapered candle…not a butane torch.
You could even wrap a wet cloth around the shaft to act as a heat sink to prevent the carbon from heating.

If you see or feel ANY deformation of the shaft, it is junk. Do not attempt to shoot that shaft and as a precaution, it should be destroyed to keep it from wandering back into the fold.

What’s the matter with you? Don’t you like supporting the arrow manufactures?
You could be “stimulating” the economy you selfish so-and-so.

My experience with the Super Uni-Bushing says for every nock destroyed I am able to use the shaft again with simple replacement of the nock about 9 out of 10 times. I ignore the small dings in the bushing and have only had one case in a couple of dozen destroyed arrows where replacement of the Uni-Bushing was feasible. If it is a direct hit, forget about it.

As an aside: One of the most interesting things about a direct hit is how the compressed air inside the shaft blows the tip insert about a third of the way out!

I eventually converted back to alloys. The same cautions about evenly applied heat hold true here as well.

Good Luck,
K
 
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