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Vane helical

7.2K views 30 replies 21 participants last post by  Grizzlejed  
#1 ·
What is the advantage of no helical, right helical, and left helical. I’m shooting a fixed blade broadhead and redoing my arrows vanes this year. I have VAP TKO
 
#2 ·
Bow well tuned and decent broadhead and just plain offset normally is all that is needed.

Straight and offset are done with a straight clamp. Up to 2 degrees of offset is easy enough to get. 3 degrees is easier to get with the new jigs designed for 3 degrees. Even offset is said helical, but due to the vane seating on the shaft.

Helical is done with a helical clamp. Helix, if you will, as the vane is wrapped around the shaft - little as it may be.

Left or right offset or helical makes no difference....No valid proof to date that Clocking gives better speed or accuracy.

Short vane don't show very much helix. Again, the newer (well, I'm few years old) can give 3 degrees of helix.

A helical clamp can be offset to give a bit more helix, but shaft diameter is a factor.....

Some of larger fixed broadheads or hard to tame fixed broadheads may need as much helix as one can get.
 
#3 ·
The more helical used, the faster the arrow spins. Spinning produces stability. You can have too much, though. The faster the arrow spins, the faster it slows down. If it slows too quickly, it will actually become less stable. This doesn't happen until beyond 50 yards, or so.

In short, if you're shooting 50 yards or less, the more helical the better. If you're building a long range bow, for TAC or something similar, consider running a 1 or 2 degree offset, instead.
 
#4 ·
I just started to play with left helical vanes. I have shot right and straight for a few years now and they are fine. Left and right helical arrows will shoot differently. I think the helical fly better and are more accurate than straight of far.
Check out high speed video of arrows with helical and straight canes and you will see one is better than the other.
 
#7 ·
I have a Bitzenberger with Right Helical clamp. How do I tell exactly what degree im fletching? There is no markings on it. I have the top dial turned as far right as it can go. Bottom dial I didn't touch because if I do I start having issues with the fletching contact. But, I have no idea if I am 2, 3 or 4+ degree helical? Any way to find out because on line I haven't found much of anything
 
#8 ·
Okay, I hate to bring this up, again, but I have to ask. For those that say that it doesn't matter if you use left or right helix, why would you put right helical/offset on an arrow that naturally wants to spin the other way (or vice versa)?

I'm not implying that it makes all that much of a difference overall, but if you are going to put any offset in it, why not put what the arrow wants to to initially?

For the record, I have shot both right and left out of a setup that wanted to spin the arrow counter clockwise and couldn't tell a difference. But given that I can fletch both ways, why not keep it spinning the same way from the get-go.
 
#13 ·
And I can ask why do factories make right offset fletched arrows and not fletched offset fletched arrows?

You noted you can't tell the difference, so why worry or even ask?

Beings that I have 5 jigs with right helical clamps why would I spend the money to buy left helical clamps when there is no difference? 14 clamps for me.....Now, 3 of the jigs I have have straight clamps which means I can go left or right. Why bother?

Got go back to when Carbon Express had the CX series of arrows. Store got in 2 dozen arrows fletched right helical. Clerk called, I went and looked and I bought both dozen. Sure looks helical. This is a CX200. They shot great.

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For comparison = a right helical fletched arrow of my own.

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#9 ·
Right or left helical makes no difference. The only advantage helical gives is better consistent flight stability in the wind. I fletch my VAP TKOs with Blazers using an EZ Fletch mini--6° right helical. When is there never any wind, when hunting? On an indoor range, straight fletching would be just as good. On my next arrow build, I'm trying out some Rayzrs at 3° helical, because 6° would be too much for feathers.
 
#10 ·
Also, I shoot broadheads out to 80 yards. Helical really has minimal effect in "slowing down" the arrow some worry about, from a theoretical standpoint. My arrows have tight groups and penetrate deeply, with authority. We're talking only very few fps slower for helical. Some talk like your arrow is just gonna flop on the ground before it ever reaches the target. LOL!
 
#12 ·
I shoot left helical. Mostly because the arrow comes off the string counterclockwise. Do I shoot better with left? I'm not sure. But mentally, I think I do, so I'll stay with left helical.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Depends which way the bow string is wound - some are left and some are wound right - shoot a bare shaft - place a marker on the nock end so you know which way the arrow is facing - if you want to get real technical - float your bare shafts - this will show you where the seem of the arrow is - it's always heavier on the seem side and the bare shaft will always float seem down - even if you can't see the seem on carbon arrows- now back to the arrows - having marked the bare shaft - shoot it into the target - sand works best as stramit and similar targets can effect the rotation in the target. Once you have determined which way the arrow rotates - then fletch accordingly - left rotation left helical fletch - right - right helical fletch. By fletching the way the bare shaft arrow spins you will ensure you have the maximum rotation in flight which equates to more accuracy - some will argue it makes no difference - but it does - more rotation in flight - greater stability and accuracy - especially with b/heads. Is important to know the natural tendency for the arrows to spin once they leave the bow string - by applying a right helical to a left spinning arrow - your fighting against the natural spin of the arrow which equates to less accuracy and a slower spin rate. The more the spin the greater the accuracy - especially when you have a broadhead on the front which acts as another plane to naturally fight against and slow the spin. There's a reason we fletch arrows - to cause the arrow to rotate/spin in flight - the more the rotation - the greater the in-flight stability and the greater the accuracy.
 
#20 ·
LOL there is absolutely no evidence that clocking and fletching direction related to fighting each other or accuracy.
But if it makes you feel good knock yourself out, just makes no sense and has never been proven. Just another AT thing to chase your tail.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I've tried it. I followed instructions from a old timer. Normally, I fletch to the blemish line inside the shaft. So the Absolute 22s I won here on AT didn't have a blemish line to real see. Not even a flash would show the seam. Took a long time for the heavy side to turn down. Warm soapy water and the shaft well washed with the same water before floating.
Sighted in and gave it a go. Two 3 shot groups and shafts near touching if not touching. Winter time and dang cold, snow on the ground. Shot a vane off. Re-shot the arrow with missing vane and it grouped with other two shots.

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The blemish line can be seen with the naked eye, but a camera flash makes stand out to be easily seen for posting. If wide, try to center to it.

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#28 ·
I shoot left & right but most left because the way my bow is setup I get better clearance like that. I can take both types as I have many of both and they'll have the same POI. The differences like I said for me is left gives me a little more room for clearance for the rest I prefer to use.

Utter than that it's small peanuts.
 
#30 ·
Geez I sure wish I would have looked deeper for this thread as I just posted an identical question to this discussion. :rolleyes: