Which head? I've shot different versions of the 3 blade, 125, 150, 175, and 160 glue on. With a well tuned bow they all fly great. Sharpest, no, you will have to sharpen them to suit yourself, but the 3 blades are a piece of cake to sharpen. They are great carbon steel, edge will rust unless you coat the edge with vaseline or chapstick. They are very tough as I have killed lots of deer and hogs with them and have never been able to damage a head in any way.
VPA broadhead flight
I am really interested in shooting these heads this upcoming season. I have heard that they are the toughest and sharpest on the market. What is everyone's experience with flight and blood trails?
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I use VPA's 150 grain 2 blade solid.
Like any quality, true-spinning broadhead out of a tuned bow....my 2 blades hit right with field points out to 120.
So, for me, they fly and tune excellent.
As far as bloodtrails...what I've found with the 3 or 4 animals I've shot with VPA's is the 2 blade zips through so cleanly the animal just jumps like something nipped them...bounds a few yards, and then tips over.
The blood trails have been short, and not overly prolific.
Which to me is perfect. I don't need gallons on the ground...like so many are lead to believe through marketing(sorry for the rant).
VPA builds one of the best fixed heads today and I have zero desire to try anything else.
That said, they are definitely not the sharpest head available, but they are easily sharpened to a scalpel like edge.
Like any quality, true-spinning broadhead out of a tuned bow....my 2 blades hit right with field points out to 120.
So, for me, they fly and tune excellent.
As far as bloodtrails...what I've found with the 3 or 4 animals I've shot with VPA's is the 2 blade zips through so cleanly the animal just jumps like something nipped them...bounds a few yards, and then tips over.
The blood trails have been short, and not overly prolific.
Which to me is perfect. I don't need gallons on the ground...like so many are lead to believe through marketing(sorry for the rant).
VPA builds one of the best fixed heads today and I have zero desire to try anything else.
That said, they are definitely not the sharpest head available, but they are easily sharpened to a scalpel like edge.
They have some die hard fans that's for sure. Must be a great product.
They fly great for me. I used the 100gn non vented heads last season and switching to 125/150 gn head 3 blade with 1 1/4 blades. Blood trail on my buck last year was good, went 60 yards and tipped over
How do you go about sharpening your two blades? I have the 100 gr two blades and haven't sharpened them yet. ThanksI use VPA's 150 grain 2 blade solid.
Like any quality, true-spinning broadhead out of a tuned bow....my 2 blades hit right with field points out to 120.
So, for me, they fly and tune excellent.
As far as bloodtrails...what I've found with the 3 or 4 animals I've shot with VPA's is the 2 blade zips through so cleanly the animal just jumps like something nipped them...bounds a few yards, and then tips over.
The blood trails have been short, and not overly prolific.
Which to me is perfect. I don't need gallons on the ground...like so many are lead to believe through marketing(sorry for the rant).
VPA builds one of the best fixed heads today and I have zero desire to try anything else.
That said, they are definitely not the sharpest head available, but they are easily sharpened to a scalpel like edge.
My experience is the same as acc and spike. A very strong head in both 2 and 3 blade. Easy to get them scary sharp with the right technique
I shoot mine first to check each arrow before putting it in my quiver...then touch it up razor sharp. I can use the same head multiple times...with touchup in between of course
I shoot mine first to check each arrow before putting it in my quiver...then touch it up razor sharp. I can use the same head multiple times...with touchup in between of course
I've only used the three blade versions and they fly great for me, but like any other fixed blade head their flight is pretty much defined by your tune.
I have either VPA or Woodsman Elites in 150, 175, 200, 250 and 300 grain versions. The Woodsman Elite is basically the same head in the 175 grain and up versions and is made by VPA. There are slight differences in the lighter heads.
I have either VPA or Woodsman Elites in 150, 175, 200, 250 and 300 grain versions. The Woodsman Elite is basically the same head in the 175 grain and up versions and is made by VPA. There are slight differences in the lighter heads.
Ive got to be honest, my buddy tuned up the edge on my 2 blades.How do you go about sharpening your two blades? I have the 100 gr two blades and haven't sharpened them yet. Thanks
I believe he just used a flat stone and then finishing stropping( is that the right word)?
I do know the furrel has angles built in that match the leading edge angle so you have two equal edge planes to guide you when using a flat stone.
You'll loose a little anodizing on the furrel this way,but that doesn't bother me.
As most have said, fly fine. Not the sharpest, but you can get them pretty damn sharp. Very durable, and reasonably priced.
I just picked up some 3 blades and got them pretty sharp with my lansky. Free handed. They won't work using the clamp. I would imagine the 2 blade would work in the clamp just fine so that would probably be my choice for sharpening the 2 blade as wellHow do you go about sharpening your two blades? I have the 100 gr two blades and haven't sharpened them yet. Thanks
I finish them off with a strop but really the edge they had on them after using the ultra fine ceramic lansky stone was pretty dang sharp before I stropped them
The high carbon steel take an edge really well
Thanks SpikeIve got to be honest, my buddy tuned up the edge on my 2 blades.
I believe he just used a flat stone and then finishing stropping( is that the right word)?
I do know the furrel has angles built in that match the leading edge angle so you have two equal edge planes to guide you when using a flat stone.
You'll loose a little anodizing on the furrel this way,but that doesn't bother me.
Thanks!I just picked up some 3 blades and got them pretty sharp with my lansky. Free handed. They won't work using the clamp. I would imagine the 2 blade would work in the clamp just fine so that would probably be my choice for sharpening the 2 blade as well
I finish them off with a strop but really the edge they had on them after using the ultra fine ceramic lansky stone was pretty dang sharp before I stropped them
The high carbon steel take an edge really well
YouTube Rick Barbee sharpening Vpa head
Yep^YouTube Rick Barbee sharpening Vpa head
Good video
That's what I followed
Just using the stones I have which are lansky
Anybody else?
Been using nothing but VPA 100 grain vented and non vented for last few years. Even I can get these things sharp! Tough as nails, take a beating, and hit same POI as my bareshaft and fp as far as I can actually reliably shoot.
after stropping, as was said earlier, grease them edges with some chapstick or Vaseline.
after stropping, as was said earlier, grease them edges with some chapstick or Vaseline.
I shot a VPA tipped arrow directly into a granite boulder from 50 yards at around 290 fps.
The arrow shaft and insert were completely trashed, but the VPA still spun true on the next shaft I installed in on.
The arrow shaft and insert were completely trashed, but the VPA still spun true on the next shaft I installed in on.
I can believe this! I've had a couple slip through deer and hit rocks and such. Clean up, touch em up, strop, and they spin true as can be. Very satisfied with this broadhead.I shot a VPA tipped arrow directly into a granite boulder from 50 yards at around 290 fps.
The arrow shaft and insert were completely trashed, but the VPA still spun true on the next shaft I installed in on.
was thinking of switching to vpa this yr cause i like the tool steel made and resharpening. i got 150 gr field tips and wow do they drop from 20 to 40 yards. shooting black eagle 250s and half out inserts. thinking of going 125s so they dont drop quite as much. does the 1 1/4 cut make em bleed that much better than the 1 1/8 cut? i think the 1 1/8 will penetrate a little better and maybe fly a little straighter? anybody have any history shooting both cuts?
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